IT - Central Italy / Toscana Flashcards
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- 8th bc: Etruscans brought viticulture to Tuscany.
- After fall of the Roman Empire & through the Middle Ages: monasteries were main the purveyors of winesoFrom 11th: a growing amount of Tuscan wine were sold in Florence
- 13-18th: mainly white wine region with Vernaccia from San Gimignano highly praised and prized
- 1716: first delimitation of the Chianti wine area
- 19th: statesman Bettino Ricasoli inherited an estate in Broglio, travelled Germany & France to study grapes, experimented w several grapes and established that Sangiovese, Canaiolo & Malvasia made the best wines. Ricasoli’s ‘recipe’ was 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo nero & 10% white varieties 5% others
- 1903: Chianti producers association to protect its quality -> 1931: Chianti boundaries established
- 1950-60s: winemakers not trained to modern and hygiene practices & highly in debt -> demise of share-cropping system and winemakers leaving for the city
- Late 1960s-late 1980s: DOC system in place & modernisation. Quantity halved, growing international reputation,
- DOC/DOCG zones widened to face demand
- 1970s: Super Tuscan revolution w the rise and/or birth of top quality wines that did not fit the legal framework (e.g. Tignanello, Sassicaia) and using Bordeaux blends
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- Warm Mediterranean climate moderated by altitude (e.g. Pomino). Harsh winters. Annual rainfall: 900mm
- Wide diurnal range brought by altitude also helps maintain the balance of sugars vs. acidity & aromatics
TOPOGRAPHY& SOILS
- 68% of the terrain is classed as hilly (8% only flat) w majority of vineyard 150-500m hi
- Very poor soils: calcium-rich marls in best zones
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Reds (80% of production)
1. Sangiovese aka Prugnolo, Brunello, Morellino
- Believed to be half Tuscan, half southern Italian
- Buds early, slow & late to ripen; vigorous grape
- Naturally low in anthocyanins so tendency towards lighter colour and hi acidity (esp. if yields not controlled)
- At best in Tuscany thanks to a better sun exposure (to fully ripen) and poor soils (to temper vine vigour)
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Canaiolo
* Used in Chianti blend to sweeten and soften Sangiovese’s asperity - Mammolo
- Heavily perfumed (violet) red grape permitted in Chianti blend
- Rare but still used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
- Cabernet
- Planted in Tuscany for over 250yrs; often used to complement Sangiovese or in Supertuscans
- Maritime sites ideal for Cabernet & Merlot
Others: Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Merlot, Pinot Noir
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Whites (20% of production)
- Trebbiano di Toscana aka Ugni Blanc
- Ugni blanc in France
- Toscano: workhorse grape with hi productivity, acid-converving qualities in hot areas and resistance to damp & frost in cooler areas
- Usually little flavour
- Most planted grape in Italy w presence in every single region
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Vernaccia
* Hi refreshing acidity, medium body & good citrus fruit - Vermentino aka Favorita (Pie) Rolle (S.FR)
- Aromatic white grape w hi acidity & citrus tang similar to Roussanne
- Scattered plantings around Toscana
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Malvasia aka Malmsey
* Usually used for Vin Santo
Others: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
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- 62,500ha –5th largest area under vine (// Emilia-Romagna) but half the production
- 50% of vineyard replanted in the last 30 years with improved clones
- Key hazards: spring frost, hail, summer sunburn, harvest rain. Emergency irrigation allowed in Classico zone.
6
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Chianti
- In the past, white wine varieties (Malvasia) were added during fermentation to soften the tannins
- Nowadays, blended with Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah
- -Ageing usually in large 300l botti or barriques. Riserva wines have min 3 yrs ageing
Brunello di Montalcino / Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
- Traditionally, extended maceration w skins (for more colour & flavours) and min 2-3yrs ageing in large
- Slovenian oak botti and then in bottle. Some producers now use small French barrique for oaky flavours.
- Riserva have one extra year ageing
Vin santo
- Grapes harvested in September/October & laid out on straw mats in ventilated rooms for drying until March
- Grapes are then crushed & fermented to different level of dryness using the madre (yeast + small amount of finished Vin Santo from previous years) believed to jumpstart fermentation
- Wine is then aged in small 50-300l barrels for min 3 years depending on DOC (e.g. 8 years in Montepulciano).
- Producers use traditional chestnut (to promote oxidisation), juniper, cherry wood and/or oak.
7
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42 DOC and 11 DOCG are spread out across the 10 provinces of Tuscany.
The key DOC/Gs are:
- Chianti DOCG -17,000ha (R)
- Chianti Rufina DOC:
- Chianti Classico DOCG – 7,140ha (R)
- Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -1,200ha (R)
- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano -1,500ha (R)
- Rosso di Montalcino (R) &
- Rosso di Montepulciano DOC (R)
- Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (W)
- Bolgheri DOC (R/W/R)
- Toscana IGT
- Carmignano DOCG & 11. Pomino DOC
- Vin santo DOCs
8
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Chianti DOCG -17,000ha (R)
- Large area stretching from Firenze’s surrounding area down south to Montalcino & Montepulciano
- 7 different sub-region e.g. Classico, Rufina Colli Senesi w possibility to label zone as suffix to ‘Chianti’
- Chianti Rufina DOC: cool area a few kms east of Firenze; most long lived tradition of quality wines w mostof the vineyards in altitude (up to 900m) on chalky, marl soils. Frescobaldi & Antinori families dominate
- DOCG: min 80% Sangiovese, min 3 months ageing & 11.5% abv
- The wines have hi acidity & tannins, med body w sour cherry and earthy flavours.
- Chianti, as a region, produces 750,000hl/yr of wine i.e. 25% of the region’s production
- Growers represented by Chianti Consorzio, which sets the rules on grapes allowed. In 2002, international varieties from 10 to 15% in Chianti. White varieties phased out of the blend.
9
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Chianti Classico DOCG – 7,140ha (R)
- Original Chianti zone from 1716 delimitation between Firenze and Siena.
- Ideal growing conditions for Sangiovese: hillside vineyards btw 250-500m hi w good drainage, chalky malaceous soils (galestro) in the north or weathered sandstone (albarese) towards the south
- Medium-bodied wines with firm tannins, med-hi acidity w floral, cherry and light nutty notes.
- Best wines come from medium altitude sites south of Greve and north of Radda & Castellina.
- Production supervised by the Consorzio del Vino Chianti Classico, a union of producers, which sponsors research into viticultural and winemaking practice (esp. clonal selection for project ‘Chianti 2000’). Gallo Nero
10
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Brunello di Montalcino DOCG -1,200ha (R)
- Area south-east of the Chianti by the border with Umbria; DOCG since 1980
- One of Toscana’s warmest & driest climates w 700mm w northern slopes less exposed (slower ripening) vs. southern slopes (more exposure + maritime winds). The higher altitude (up to 500m hi), poor soils and climate mean that Sangiovese ripens more consistently than anywhere else in Toscana.
- Various terroirs w limestone, clay, schist & volcanic soils.
- 100% Brunello (one of Sangiovese’s clones) released min 4 yrs after harvest & min 2 yrs in cask.
- Wines have full-bodied w hi but smooth & ripe tannins, hi acidity and intense black fruit flavours (blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry), chocolate, leather & violets. Can age 10-20yrs+.
- 200 producers for 330,000cs/yr w 1/3 of production exported to the US.
- 2008 Brunellopoli scandal w 4 producers accused of using international grapes for Brunello wines.
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Vino Nobile di Montepulciano -1,500ha (R)
- First DOCG classified (1980)
- Warm area, Higher percentage of sandy soils; mainly east to south east facing slopes up to 600m hi although best wines tend to come from the lower vineyards.
- Min 70% Prugnolo Gentile (another Sangiovese clone), 10-20% Canaiolo Nero & local varieties e.g. Mammolo
- More full-bodied and alcoholic vs. Chianti
12
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5. Rosso di Montalcino (R) & 6. Rosso di Montepulciano DOC (R)
- Same grapes and area as Vino Nobile/Montepulciano but only 1yr min ageing before release.
- Wines are lighter & fruitier & to be drunk younger. Similar to Bordeaux’s 2nd label wine for most producers.
13
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Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (W)
- Area west of the Chianti Classico; 30kms from Radda; 1st ever DOC (1966) & now only white DOCG in Toscanao Sandstone-based vineyards on high altitude hills w great diurnal range and better exposure in Autumn
- Best examples have a high crisp acidity, medium body, citrus-flavoured and w a slightly bitter finish.
- Min 90% Vernaccia & 10% non aromatic white; usually fermented in stainless steel. Some use oak ageing.
14
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Bolgheri DOC (R/W/R)
- DOC created in 1994 in recognition of super Tuscan in the area but did not comply with DOC regulations
- More temperate climate (proximity to the sea) & gravelly, chalky soils (known as Sassicaia) are ideal to grow Bordeaux varieties
- Sangiovese up to 70%, Cabernet 10-80%, Merlot up to 80%. Must be aged for 24 mths.oThe subzone Sassicaia must be aged 26 months and is expected to DOCG status.
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9. Toscana IGT
- Regional appellation introduced in 1992 & used by producers (incl. Antinori w Tignanello) to make prestigious outside the DOC regulations.
10. Carmignano DOCG & 11. Pomino DOC
- North of Florence. Serious reds made from Sangiovese with a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon.