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Aveda > Hair Color Chemistry, Formulating and Mixing > Flashcards

Hair Color Chemistry, Formulating and Mixing Flashcards

1
Q

Color which lasts 4-6 shampooings

A

Semi-permenant

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2
Q

Two major components of permenant hair color are :

A

Hydrogen peroxide and ammonia.

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3
Q

When one oxygen atom is released from h2o2 the result is : : and : :

A

A free oxygen atom and water (h2o)

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4
Q

Though hydrogen peroxide is usually acidic(depending on volume) the alkalinity of ammonia causes color mixture to remain : :

A

Alkaline

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5
Q

: : and : : are colorless molecules that are small enough to slip between the overlapping scales of the hair’s cuticle.

A

Dye intermediates and couplers

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6
Q

A large molecule direct dye that lodges in the cuticle layer only and washes out with shampoo. It temporarily adds level and tone to hair color

A

Temporary hair color

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7
Q

In permenant hair color, the : : is what causes the cuticle to swell open and allows the dye intermediates to penetrate the : :

A

Alkalinity

Cortex

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8
Q

Color which does not alter the natural melanin and lasts 4-6 weeks.

A

Demi-permenant

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9
Q

When : : in the developer is mixed with : : in the hair color, a lightening agent is created that lifts the hair’s color.

A

Hydrogen Peroxide : : Ammonia

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10
Q

Hydrogen peroxide bonds with

dye intermediates and couplers to create : :

A

Hair color pigment molecules.

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11
Q

The pH of permenant hair color is : : - : :

A

9.0 - 10.5

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12
Q

When bonded together by : : dye intermediates are too large to escape through hair cuticle.

A

Couplers

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13
Q

Oxidation is the reaction of a substance when it has been mixed with : :

A

Oxygen

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14
Q

The : : of the ammonia opens the : : and inter- acts with hydrogen peroxide to lift the :: from the hair.

A

Alkalinity
Hair cuticle
Melanin

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15
Q

Hair color oxidation happens so that hair color can : : and : :

A

Lift and deposit

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16
Q

Color which needs to be retouched and refreshed every 4-6 weeks.

A

Permenant

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17
Q

: : means the ability of the peroxide to release free oxygen gas. The higher the : : , the more free oxygen the mixture can release.

A

Volume

Volume

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18
Q

An oxidizing, indirect dye that can lighten, darken, change tone and deliver maximum grey coverage. It raises the cuticle to allow maximum penetration, lightening the natural pigment and oxidizing the color molecules in the cortex. The color needs to be retouched and refreshed every 4-6 weeks.

A

Permenant hair color

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19
Q

Hydrogen peroxide bonds dye intermediates together to form : : inside the hairshaft.

A

Color molecules

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20
Q

A small molecule direct dye that penetrates the cuticle layer. It adds level and tone and lasts 4-6 shampooings.

A

Semi-permenant hair color

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21
Q

An oxidizing, indirect dye that adds level and tone. It slightly raises
the cuticle to allow some color penetration in the cortex and the cuticle. It does not alter the natural melanin and lasts 4-6 weeks.

A

Demi-permenant hair color

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22
Q

Following a color service, applying the hair with :: shampoo and : : conditioner closes the cuticle imbrications (scales) and seals the color molecules into the cortex.

A

Acidic

Acidic

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23
Q

Less concentration of oxidation dye intermediates, relatively mild alkalizing agents in the color base and significantly lower percentage of hydrogen peroxide in the developer. Often ammonia-free.

A

Demi-permenant

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24
Q

When the hydrogen peroxide in the developer is mixed with : : in the hair color, the result is an agent that can lift and deposit hair color.

A

Dye intermediates

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25
Q

Hydrogen peroxide is made up of what?

A

2 molecules of hydrogen, 2 molecules of oxygen (h2o2)

26
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 6 Intense color?

A

4g

27
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 5 Intense color?

A

8g

28
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 4 Intense color?

A

12g

29
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 3 Intense color?

A

16g

30
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 10 strong formulation?

A

3G

31
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 9 strong formulation?

A

6g

32
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 8 strong formulation?

A

9g

33
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 7 strong formulation?

A

12g

34
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 6 strong formulation?

A

3G

35
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 5 strong formulation?

A

6g

36
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 4 strong formulation?

A

9g

37
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 3 strong formulation?

A

12g

38
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 10 soft formulation?

A

1g

39
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 9 soft formulation?

A

2g

40
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 8 soft formulation?

A

3g

41
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 7 soft formulation?

A

4g

42
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 6 soft formulation?

A

1g

43
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 5 soft formulation?

A

2g

44
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 4 soft formulation?

A

3g

45
Q

How many grams of pure tone would you use for a level 3 soft formulation?

A

4g

46
Q

What is the right amount of pure tone used to create Bright colors?

A

Same pure tone used for intense color

47
Q

What base do you use for Bright colors?

A

1/2 from N series and 1/2 pure base

Ex: 20g 8N + 20g Light pure base

48
Q

What developer do you use when Depositing color?

A

10 vol for 20 minutes unless the guest is 25% or more grey.

49
Q

When do you use the N/N series?

A

When guest is more than 26% grey.

50
Q 
NL: 3
DL: 5
NRP: \_\_\_
DT: Intense Cool Red
Grey: 0%
Time: \_\_\_\_
A

NRP: Red

40g Dk. Pure Base + 8g Dk. V/R + 40g 20 vol

30 minutes

51
Q 
NL: 10 
DL: 9
NRP: \_\_\_
DT: Soft Gold
Grey: 75% 
Time: \_\_\_
A

(Soft formula)
NRP: Yellow
40g 9N + (2g Lt. Y/O + 4g Lt. N/N) + 40g 20 vol
30 minutes

52
Q 
NL: 3
DL: 7
NRP: \_\_\_
DT: Ash
Grey: 0%
Time: \_\_\_
A

(Strong formula)
NRP: Orange
40g 7N + 12g Lt. B/B + 40g 40 vol
45 minutes

53
Q 
NL: 8
DL: 6
NRP: \_\_\_
DT: Red
Grey: 0%
Time: \_\_\_
A

NRP: R/O

40g 6N + 2g Dk. R/R + 40g 10 vol
20 minutes

54
Q 
NL: 10
DL: 9N
RP: \_\_\_
DT: Soft Gold
Grey: 75%
Time: \_\_\_
A

NRP yellow
40g 9N + 2gY/O + 4g LN/N

NRP: Yellow
40g 9N + (2g Lt. Y/O + 4g Lt. N/N) + 40g 20 vol
30 minutes

55
Q

What are the amounts of pure tones for Soft formulas?

A

1
2
3
4

1
2
3
4

56
Q

What are the amounts of pure tones for Normal colors?

A

2
4
6
8

2
4
6
8

57
Q

What are the amounts of pure tones for Strong colors?

A

3
6
9
12

3
6
9
12

58
Q

What are the amounts of pure tones for Intense colors?

A

4
8
12
16

4
8
12
16

59
Q

When coloring grey hair, when is it not possible to formulate for full grey coverage?

A

When the guest has more than 25% grey and they want 3 or more levels of lift.
(grey coverage = 20 volume and 3 levels or more would take 30 volume or higher)

60
Q

When would you not recommend Intense color?

A

On grey hair

61
Q

NL 1 DL 3 TONE: RED

A

NRP: Red

40 G 3N 8G DK R/R 40G 20 VOL.

Aveda (7 decks)

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