hair Flashcards
HAIR IS MADE OF DEAD PROTEIN
KNOWN AS
KERATIN
HAIR CONSISTS OF 2 PARTS:
HAIR SHAFT
HAIR ROOT/FOLLICLE
PART WHICH IS SEEN OUTSIDE SCALP
HAIR SHAFT
PART WHICH IS INSIDE SCALP
HAIR ROOT/FOLLICLE
IT IS THE PART WHICH HOLDS HAIR
HAIR FOLLICLE
HAIR FOLLICLE HAS
HAIR BULB
HAIR BULB CONTAINS
PAPILLA
IT SUPPLIES BLOOD TO FOLLICLE
PAPILLA
ABOVE PAPILLA THERE ARE
GERMINATIVE CELLS
THESE CELLS ARE CONTINUOUSLY GETTING GENERATED AND FORMS HAIR
GERMINATIVE CELLS
Produce sebum that coats the hair and skin
Sebaceous glands
When this muscle contracts, it causes hair to stand up.
Arrector pili muscle
• translucent, allowing light to penetrate the cortex pigments;
• acts as a barrier;
Cuticle
• regulates the water content of the hair fiber;
• luster and the texture of hair; and
• target for hair conditioning products
Cuticle
• major component of the hair shaft;
• mechanical properties of the hair fiber, including strength, elasticity, and curliness
Cortex
• contains the pigment, melanin
• affects the color and shape of the hair fiber
Cortex
• It is viewed as a framework of keratin supporting thin shells of amorphous material bonding air spaces of variable size.
Medulla
Medulla is also known as:
Core
• The medulla does not really do anything, but its DNA tells us from which species it comes
(Growth Phase)
Nourishment of hair follicle via blood supply enables hair growth
Anagen
__mm every 3 days. Anagen lasts for __ years. The longer the anagen phase, the longer the hair is able to grow.
1
2-6
(Transiton phase)
Hair follicle detatches from nourishing blood supply
Catagen
Catagen lasts between ___ weeks, cell division stops, the follicle tube shrinks, and ___ production stops in this phase.
2 and 3
Melanin
(Resting phase)
Without nourishment the hair dies and falls out
Telogen
Telogen lasts for months, removal is easy and painless,
2-3
• the normal process of the
replacement of old hair with new;
Hair Shedding
• shedding of ___ telogen hairs per day is normal. However, anagen hair loss is never normal;
100-150
• “mosaic pattern”
Hair shedding
• A strong bond
Disulfide bond
• Hair keratin is made up of amino acids, where ___ Is one of the
most important among them
cysteine
• shape, stability, and texture of the hair
• cannot be broken up by heat
or water, only chemically
Disulfide bond
• Weak and can be easily broken by water and heat
Hydrogen bond
• responsible for changing the hair’s overall shape
• the highest number of all types of bonds
Hydrogen bond
• sensitive to pH
• easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions
Salt bonds
The natural look of hair can be altered either temporarily or permanently depending on which chemical bonds are changed.
Physical Properties of Human Hair
• Durable and Strong
• Elasticity
• Water Content
• Electrical Resistivity
Hair fibers are very durable and strong primarily due to __ located in the cortex.
Healthy hair fibers have a tensile strength similar to that or a copper wire of the same diameter. However, to resist externally applied forces, a healthy cuticle is also necessary.
keratin
This property lets nair spring back to its original form after physical stress, such as grooming.
Hair can withstand forces that could change its shape, volume, or length
Elasticity
Varies according to the relative
humidity or the surrounding
atmosphere.
Water content
For a healthy appearance, hair fibers ideally need to retain approximately __ humidity
17%
It means that it is easy to generate
electrostatic charges by brushing and combing hair. It is especially noticeably in hot, dry weather
Electrical Resistivity
It is reterred to as “flyaway” hair, which stands out from the head.
charged hair
• progressive hair damage
primarily affecting the end of the hair fibers;
Hair Weathering
• mechanical abrasion of the cuticle;
• damage of the cortex;
Hair Weathering
• altering the tensile strength of the fibers; and
• depletion of amino acids from keratin.
Hair weathering
Hair Weathering is the progressive hair damage primarily affecting the end of the hair fibers caused by;
• UV radiation
• cosmetic treatments
• combing and brushing
• excessive heat
• chemicals
Hair can be classified in a number of ways, based on its color, thickness, shape, texture, length, and curliness.
Classification Based on Thickness
Coarse hair
Medium hair
Fine hair
It refers to the diameter of individual hair shafts.
Hair thickness
Classification Based on Color
Eumelanin
Pheomelanin
It is the result of melanin present in the cortex.
Natural color
Classification Based on Condition
Damaged hair
Healthy hair
Classification Based on Shape, Size, and Color
Lanugo hair
Vellus hair
Terminal hair
From about the fifth month of being a fetus, the body is covered with a very fine soft hair called
Lanugo hair
short, soft, colorless hair fibers that help in efficient evaporation and perspiration, usually found on surfaces normally considered hairless, including the forehead, eyelids, and bald scalp, as well as many other hairy body parts, except for the palms and soles
Vellus hair
longer as compared to other hair fibers, located on the scalp, face, chest (mainly for men), arms and legs, underarm, and pubic area, and may also appear on the back.
The size and shape varies with body location and function.
Terminal hair
Classification Based on Curliness
Wavy
Curly
Coily
Classification Based on Greasiness
Greasy hair
Dry hair
• Does not contain enough moisture.
• It is usually a result of damaged (weathered) cuticle and cortex.
• Porous cortex cannot retain water (hair fibers have dull, unhealthy appearance)
Dry hair
• It is usually aggravated by excessive shampooing and chemical treatments, such as permanent waving or bleaching
• Common in women with long hair
Dryness / Dry hair
• Caused by overactive sebaceous glands, which produce more sebum than normally
• Many consumers experience this when changes take place in their hormone levels, for example, during puberty.
Greasy hair
• Needs special care because if not cleaned adequately, it can lead to various scalp conditions, such as dandruff.
Greasy hair
It is designed to remove all kinds of soilage, including sebum, sweat, environmental dirt, and hair conditioners, as well as to beautify the hair and make it easy to
handle.
Shampoos
It is designed to repair chemical and environmental damage, replace natural lipids removed by shampooing, and facilitate managing and styling hair.
They are usually applied after cleaning the hair in the form of rinsing or leave-in preparations
Hair conditioners
TYPES OF SHAMPOOS
Normal hair shampoo
Oily hair shampoos
Dry hair shampoos
Everyday shampoos
Deep cleansing shampoos
Baby shampoos
Gray hair shampoos
Hair dyeing shampoos
Medicated shampoos
Dry shampoos
It is designed to clean the hair of persons with moderate sebum production and who do not have chemically processed hair.
NORMAL HAIR SHAMPOO
It is designed to remove excess
sebum from the hair and scalp, harsher to the hair than normal hair
shampoos due to the stronger surfactants
OILY HAIR SHAMPOOS
lt provide gentle cleansing by
incorporating gentle surfactants, such as sulfosuccinates, and good
conditioning; dry scalp and hair
needs special attention due to the presence of less sebum.
DRY HAIR SHAMPOOS
Has gentle formulations that can
be used every day without drying the hair or depositing too much oil on it
EVERYDAY SHAMPOOS
It is designed to thoroughly clean
the hair, used to remove retained hair styling products, such as hair gels, hair sprays, and mousse
DEEP CLEANSING SHAMPOOS
It is usually milder, based on
amphoteric surfactants, such as
betaines. They offer nonirritating properties and minimal sebum production.
BABY SHAMPOOS
It consists of products containing blue dyes to make the gray hair color brighter and less yellowish
GRAY HAIR SHAMPOOS
It is designed to be used after permanent hair dyeing, contain cationic surfactants and have an acidic pH, which neutralizes any residual alkalinity from the chemicals used for hair dyeing.
HAIR DYEING SHAMPOOS
It deliver extra benefits to the hair
and scalp in addition to cleansing and conditioning, contain active ingredients to relieve itching and scaling
MEDICATED SHAMPOOS
It contain powders with good oil-absorbing capacity, such as starch, silica, magnesium stearate, kaolin, and talc.
These are cleansing formulations that work without soap and water.
Dry shampoos
These are mainly used as touch-ups if customers do not have to time to wash their hair.
Dry shampoos
Typical Ingredients
• Surfactants
• Thickeners
• Water
• Preservatives
• Opacifiers and pearlescent agents
• Conditioners
• pH buffers
• Chelating agents
• Additional ingredients
• Active ingredients
• Aid in cleaning and foaming by reducing the surface tension between two phases.
Surfactants
• Different surfactants, however,
have different characteristics and effects on the hair and scalp.
Anionics can make the hair extremely clean, but will leave it with a rough, harsh feeling; while nonionics can increase luster and shine, but they do not foam as well as anionics.
• have good cleansing properties
• commonly found in most shampoos
Anionic Surfactants
Examples of Anionic surfactants
• lauryl sulfates
• laureth sulfates
• sarcosines
• sulfosuccinates
• compatible with all classes of surfactants
• nonirritating to the eyes, foam moderately well, and increase manageability of hair
Amphoterics
Examples of Amphoterics
• betaines (cocamidopropyl betaine)
• alkylamino acids
• popular surfactants
• very mild
Nonionic Surfactants
Examples of nonionic surfactants
• poloxamers
• amine oxides (cocamidopropylamine oxide)
• polyglucoside (lauryl glucoside)
necessary rheological properties for the systems
THICKENERS
THICKENERS
sodium chloride
gums
celluloses
and other polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol
acrylates copolymer
vehicle for shampoos
WATER
prevent the growth of microorganisms in the formulations
PRESERVATIVES
PRESERVATIVES
parabens
urea derivatives; isothiazolones,
benzalkonium chloride
adjust the pH of products, By shifting the ph closer to the neutral range provides less damage to the hair.
PH BUFFERS
PH BUFFERS
citric acid and glycolic acid.
make the hair soft, shiny, and easier to manage
CONDITIONERS
CONDITIONERS
quats (cationic surfactant)
humectants, such as glycerin;
proteins;
silicones, such as dimethicone
aesthetic role by providing a unique pearly, shimmering effect or a creamy appearance
OPACIFIERS/PEARLESCENT AGENTS
OPACIFIERS/PEARLESCENT AGENTS
polyglycol esters, latex opacifiers, and pearlescent color additives
sequestering agents, contribute to the stability of the product by binding to metal ions
CHELATING AGENTS
CHELATING AGENTS
EDTA and its derivatives.
compounds that provide a unique feel or appearance for the products but do not influence their functional (i.e., cleaning) property
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
perfumes;
botanical extracts, such as tea tree oil;
and vitamins, such as vitamin B5 (panthenol).
incorporated into shampoos, which make them to be considered drugs
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
It is one of the most common skin diseases of the scalp, which presents as dry, scaly patches.
It is not contagious.
Dandruff
These are basic shampoos with active ingredients; therefore, they deliver both cosmetic and drug benefits.
Antidandruff shampoos
It slows down cell turnover and is an effective antifungal ingredient.
Zinc pyrithione
• They have a keratolytic effect, which means that they dissolve the keratin of dead cells and thus prevent the formation of visible flakes.
Sulfur and salicylic acid
It slows down the rate of epidermal turnover and also has antiseptic activity.
Tar
It is an antifungal ingredient, which controls flaking and itching.
Ketoconazole
Conditioners are applied to the hair
after shampooing and are designed
to:
• smooth the hair,
• improve gloss and luster,
• recondition chemically damaged hair (by permanent waving, hair
bleaching, or hot blow-drying),
mechanically damaged hair (by
excessive brushing), and weathered
hair (by sunlight, salty seawater,
chlorinated water, or swimming
pools).
TYPES OF CONDITIONERS
INSTANT CONDITIONERS
HAIR RINSES
DEEP CONDITIONERS
LEAVE-IN PRODUCTS
It is usually formulated as lotions and are used on wet hair after
shampooing, left on the hair for a few minutes and then rinsed off.
INSTANT CONDITIONERS
Are formulated as liquids and are generally intended for fine oily hair, which needs less conditioning. Their
main function is to aid in hair detangling.
HAIR RINSES
It is also known as hair masks, are
usually recommended for chemically damaged hair and
dry hair.
They are applied to wet
hair and are left on the hair for
20–30min before rinsing.
DEEP CONDITIONERS
Are applied to towel-dried hair, and as their name implies, they are designed to remain on the hair. oily
products based on petrolatum; mineral oil and silicones are designed for thick, curly, or kinky hair. They can moisturize the hair while aiding in hair styling.
LEAVE-IN PRODUCTS
Are attracted to the negatively charged hair fiber and can remain on their surface even after rinsing.
Cationic ingredients are beneficial for permanently colored or waved hair where the cuticle is damaged.
QUAT
QUAT
stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, quaterniums, and polyquaterniums
coat hair fibers with a thin polymer
layer, and they fill in defects in the
cuticle to create a smooth surface
FILM-FORMING CONDITIONERS
FILM-FORMING CONDITIONERS
PVP
form a thin film on the hair without
creating the appearance of greasy
and limp hair. Some water-resistant
and, can remain on the hair shaft
even after washing the hair.
SILICONES
SILICONES
cyclomethicone, dimethicone,
and amodimethicone
It contain a small amount of
proteins that can penetrate the holes in the hair shaft and increase its fracture strength.
The longer they are left on the hair, the deeper proteins can penetrate
the hair.
PROTEIN-CONTAINING CONDITIONERS
Quality Parameters Generally Tested
Spreadability
extrudability
texture
firmness of lotions, creams, and gels;
actuation force;
foaming property;
foam stability;
foam viscosity;
foam density;
foam structure;
preservative efficacy;
viscosity;
and pH.
• Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested
• Combability
• Antimicrobial activity of antidandruff shampoos
• mechanical testing device that measures the friction generated between the comb and hair during grooming
• The testing device measures the decrease in movement of the comb down through the hair after conditioning.
• This test can be set up in various ways; it can be used on both wet and dry hair samples.
COMBABILITY TEST
majority of shampoos and hair conditioners are supplied in __, usually with a flip-top cap or pump head
plastic bottles
Hair conditioners are also available in __ with a screw cap or a flip-top cap
soft tubes
leave-in conditioners,
These bottles make the application of liquid products much easier.
Spray bottles
Giving shape to the hair
Hair follicle
Connected to the nerves that supply blood
Hair papilla
Above the hair papilla, composed of germinated cells that aid in hair growth
Hair matrix
Responsible for the ability of the hair to be stretched elasticity and return back to its original shape
Hydrogen bond
Responsible for the hair’s toughness or abrasion resistance
Disulfide bond
The hair’s ___ refers to the smoothness and softness of the hair by touch, which is in direct relationship with the cuticle’s intactness. This is commonly called __, which reflects the hair fibers’ ability to absorb moisture.
condition
porosity
