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Chapter13-chemistry/ingredients > Glossary/chapter13 > Flashcards

Glossary/chapter13 Flashcards

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0
Q

Alcohol

A

Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol.

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1
Q

Alpha hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated AHAs; acids derived from plants that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal.

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2
Q

Algae

A

Derived from minerals and phytohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin.

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3
Q

Allantoin

A

An anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin-soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

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4
Q

Aloe Vera

A

Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties

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5
Q

Alpha lipoic acid

A

A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is souluble in water and oil.

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6
Q

Alum

A

Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action.

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7
Q

Ampoules

A

Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in water or oil base.

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8
Q

Anhydrous

A

Describes products that do not contain any water.

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9
Q

Aromatherapy

A

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purpose; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service.

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10
Q

Astringents

A

Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin.

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11
Q

Azulene

A

Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

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12
Q

Benzyl peroxide

A

Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne.

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13
Q

Beta-glucans

A

Ingredients used in anti aging cosmetic to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.

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14
Q

Beta hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acid(AHAs). BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin.

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15
Q

Binders

A

Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together.

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16
Q

Botanicals

A

Ingredients derived from plants.

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17
Q

Calendula

A

Anti-inflammatory plant extract.

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18
Q

Carbomers

A

Ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products.

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19
Q

Carrot

A

Rich in vitamin A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant.

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20
Q

Certified colors

A

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic).

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21
Q

Chamomile

A

Plant extract with calming and soothing properties.

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22
Q

Chelating agent

A

A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative.

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23
Q

Chemical exfoliation

A

Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)

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24
Q

Clay masks

A

Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten.

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25
Q

Cleansers

A

Soaps and detergents that clean the skin.

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26
Q

Coenzyme q10

A

Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalize skin cells.

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27
Q

Colorants

A

Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color.

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28
Q

Comedogenicity

A

Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo(blackhead).

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29
Q

Cosmeceuticals

A

Products intended to improve the skins health and appearances.

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30
Q

Cosmetics

A

As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or alternating the appearance.

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31
Q

Delivery system

A

Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis.

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32
Q

Detergents

A

Types of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products.

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33
Q

DMAE

A

Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilize cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants.

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34
Q

Echinacea

A

Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system.

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35
Q

Emollients

A

Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturizer, and prevent water loss.

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36
Q

Emulsifiers

A

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend.

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37
Q

Enzyme peels

A

Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin.

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38
Q

Essential oils

A

Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche.

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39
Q

Exfoliants

A

Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin.

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40
Q

Exfoliation

A

Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin.

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41
Q

Fatty acids

A

Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.

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42
Q

Fatty alcohols

A

Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.

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43
Q

Fatty esters

A

Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols.

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44
Q

Fragrances

A

Give products their scent

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45
Q

Fresheners

A

Skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content.

46
Q

Functional ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients.

47
Q

Glycerin

A

Formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams.

48
Q

Glycoproteins

A

Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing.

49
Q

Gommage

A

Also known as roll off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin.

50
Q

Grape seed extract

A

Powerful antioxidant with soothing properties

51
Q

Green tea

A

Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti inflammatory, and a stimulant.

52
Q

Healing agents

A

Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin.

53
Q

Herbs

A

Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize.

54
Q

Horsechestnut

A

Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Helps strengthen capillary walls; used for couperose areas or telangiectasia.

55
Q

Humectants

A

Ingredients that attract water. Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness.

56
Q

Hydrators

A

Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface.

57
Q

Hydrophilic agents

A

Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface.

58
Q

Jojoba

A

Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer.

59
Q

Keratolytic

A

Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells.

60
Q

Kojic acid

A

Skin brightening agent

61
Q

Lakes

A

Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

62
Q

Lanolin

A

Emollients with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities

63
Q

Lavender

A

Antiallergenic, anti inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing

64
Q

Licorice

A

Anti irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation.

65
Q

Lipids

A

Fats or fat like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin

66
Q

Liposomes

A

Closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release

67
Q

Lubricants

A

Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is lubricant

68
Q

Mask

A

Also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin

69
Q

Mechanical exfoliation

A

Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin

70
Q

Methylparaben

A

One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic

71
Q

Mineral oil

A

Lubricant derived from petroleum

72
Q

Modelage masks

A

Also known as thermal masks; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, plaster like ingredients.

73
Q

Moisturizers

A

Products formulated to add moisture to the skin

74
Q

Noncertified colors

A

Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural minerals pigments

75
Q

Oil soluble

A

Compatible with oil

76
Q

Olfactory system

A

Gives us our sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses

77
Q

Papaya

A

Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels

78
Q

Parabens

A

On of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms

79
Q

Paraffin wax masks

A

Mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin.

80
Q

Peptides

A

Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides.

81
Q

Performance ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

82
Q

Petroleum jelly

A

Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water, used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing

83
Q

pH adjusters

A

Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products.

84
Q

Phototherapy

A

Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits

85
Q

Polyglucans

A

Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.

86
Q

Polymers

A

Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skins surface at microscopically controlled rate

87
Q

Potassium hydroxide

A

Strong alkali used in soaps and creams

88
Q

Preservatives

A

Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling

89
Q

Propylene glycol

A

Humectant often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers

90
Q

Quaternium 15

A

All purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies

91
Q

Retinal

A

Natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells

92
Q

Rose

A

Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extracts, oil or water

93
Q

Salicylic acid

A

Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

94
Q

Seaweed

A

Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification and aiding skin firmness

95
Q

Serums

A

Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

96
Q

Silicones

A

Oil that is chemically combined with silicone and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin

97
Q

Sodium bicarbonate

A

Baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster

98
Q

Sorbitol

A

Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness

99
Q

Sphingolipids

A

Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer.

100
Q

Squalane

A

Derived from olives; desensitized and nourishes; an emollient

101
Q

Squalene

A

Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative

102
Q

Stem cells

A

Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; for health and anti aging benefits

103
Q

Sulfur

A

Sulfur reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skins surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products

104
Q

Sun protection factor

A

Abbreviated SPF; ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure

105
Q

Tea tree

A

Soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties

106
Q

Tissue respiratory factor

A

Abbreviated TRF; ingredients derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient

107
Q

Titanium dioxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation

108
Q

Toners

A

Also known as freshers or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skins surface.

109
Q

Urea

A

Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti inflammatory, antiseptic and deodorizing action that protects the skins surface and helps maintain healthy skin

110
Q

Vehicles

A

Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

111
Q

Water soluble

A

Mix able with water

112
Q

Witch hazel

A

Extracted from the bark of the hamamelis shurb; can be a soothing agent or in higher concentrations, an astringent

113
Q

Zinc oxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial

Chapter13-chemistry/ingredients (1 decks)

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