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Miladys Chapter 13-chemistry > Glossary > Flashcards

Glossary Flashcards

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0
Q

Alcohol

A

Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol

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1
Q

Alphahydroxy acid’s

A

Abbreviated AHA’s; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, Malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulates cell renewal

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2
Q

Algae

A

Derived from minerals and photohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin

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3
Q

Allantoin

A

And anti-inflammatory compound isolated from herb Comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue

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4
Q

Aloe vera

A

Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulation; emollient and film forming gum resin with hydrating, soothing, healing, and anti-microbial, and anti-inflammatory properties

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5
Q

Alpha lipoic acid

A

And natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

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6
Q

Alum

A

Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action

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7
Q

Ampoules

A

Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base

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8
Q

Anhydrous

A

Describes products that do not contain any water

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9
Q

Aromatherapy

A

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during the service

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10
Q

Astringents

A

Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin

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11
Q

Azulene

A

Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

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12
Q

Benzyl peroxide

A

Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne

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13
Q

Beta glucans

A

Ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

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14
Q

Beta hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid, milder than alphahydroxy acid’s (AHA’s). BHA’s dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

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15
Q

Binders

A

Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together

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16
Q

Botanicals

A

Ingredients derived from plants

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17
Q

Calendula

A

Anti-inflammatory plant extract

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18
Q

Carbomers

A

Ingredients used to thicken cream; frequently used in gel products

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19
Q

Carrot

A

Rich in vitamins A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant

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20
Q

Certified colors

A

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)

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21
Q

Chamomile

A

Plant extract with calming and soothing properties

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22
Q

Chelating agent

A

A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

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23
Q

Chemical exfoliation

A

Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)

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24
Q

Clay masks

A

Oil absorbing cleaning mask that draws impurities to the surface of the skin as a dry and tighten

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25
Q

Cleansers

A

Soaps and detergents that clean the skin

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26
Q

Coenzyme Q 10

A

Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalize the skin cells

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27
Q

Colorants

A

Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color

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28
Q

Comedogenicity

A

Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a build up in the follicle, leading to the to the development of a comedo (blackhead)

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29
Q

Cosmeceuticals

A

Products intended to improve the skins health and appearance

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30
Q

Cosmetics

A

As defined by the FDA: articles are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise apply to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance

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31
Q

Delivery systems

A

Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

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32
Q

Detergents

A

Type of surfactant used as cleansers and skin cleansing products

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33
Q

DMAE

A

Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boost the effects of other antioxidants

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34
Q

Echinacea

A

Derived of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support immune system

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35
Q

Emollients

A

Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss

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36
Q

Emulsifiers

A

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend

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37
Q

Enzyme peels

A

Enzyme Products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin

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38
Q

Essential oils

A

Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and affects on the skin and psyche

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39
Q

Exfoliants

A

Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin

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40
Q

Exfoliation

A

Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin

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41
Q

Fatty acids

A

Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats

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42
Q

Fatty alcohols

A

Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

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43
Q

Fatty esters

A

Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols

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44
Q

Fragrances

A

Give products their scent

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45
Q

Fresheners

A

Skin freshening lotions with a low alcohol content

46
Q

Functional ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients

47
Q

Glycerin

A

Formed by a decomposition of oils or fat; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams

48
Q

Glycoproteins

A

Skin conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing

49
Q

Gommage

A

Also known as roll off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin

50
Q

Grapeseed extract

A

Powerful antioxidant was soothing properties

51
Q

Green tea

A

Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant

52
Q

Healing agents

A

Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin

53
Q

Herbs

A

Hundreds of different herbs that contain photohormones are used in skincare products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe and Moisturize

54
Q

Horsechestnut

A

Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Help strengthen capillary walls; used for Couperose areas or telangiectasia

55
Q

Humectants

A

Ingredients that attract water. Humectant draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness

56
Q

Hydrators

A

Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface

57
Q

Hydrophilic agents

A

Ingredients to attract water to the skin surface

58
Q

Jojoba

A

Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer

59
Q

Keratolytic

A

Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells

60
Q

Kojic acid

A

Skin brightening agent

61
Q

Lakes

A

Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

62
Q

Lanolin

A

Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities

63
Q

Lavender

A

Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing

64
Q

Licorice

A

Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation

65
Q

Lipids

A

Fats or fat like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function if the skin

66
Q

Liposomes

A

Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release

67
Q

Lubricants

A

Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant

68
Q

Mask

A

Also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin

69
Q

Mechanical exfoliation

A

Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin

70
Q

Methylparaben

A

One of the most frequently used preservatives because of it’s very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic

71
Q

Mineral oil

A

Lubricant derived from petroleum

72
Q

Modelage mask

A

Also known as thermal mask; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals if gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient

73
Q

Moisturizers

A

Products formulated to add moisture to the skin

74
Q

Noncertified colors

A

Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments

75
Q

Oil soluble

A

Compatible with oil

76
Q

Olfactory system

A

Gives us out sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses

77
Q

Papaya

A

Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels

78
Q

Parabens

A

One if the most commonly used groups if preservatives in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms

79
Q

Paraffin wax masks

A

Masks used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin

80
Q

Peptides

A

Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides

81
Q

Performance ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual change in the appearance of the skin

82
Q

Petroleum jelly

A

Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing

83
Q

pH adjusters

A

Acids it alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products

84
Q

Phytotherapy

A

Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits

85
Q

Polyglucans

A

Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin

86
Q

Polymers

A

Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin surface at a microscopically controlled rate

87
Q

Potassium hydroxide

A

Strong alkali used in soaps and creams

88
Q

Preservatives

A

Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms and cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling

89
Q

Propylene glycol

A

Humectant often used in dry – or sensitive skin moisturizers

90
Q

Quaternium 15

A

All purpose preservative active against mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies

91
Q

Retinol

A

Natural form of vitamin a; stimulate cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells

92
Q

Rose

A

Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extract, oil, or water

93
Q

Salicylic acid

A

Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include Sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

94
Q

Seaweed

A

Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nurishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness

95
Q

Serums

A

Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

96
Q

Silicones

A

Oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin

97
Q

Sodium bicarbonate

A

Baking soda; and alkaline and organic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster

98
Q

Sorbitol

A

Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness

99
Q

Sphingolipids

A

Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipid’s and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer

100
Q

Squalene

A

Derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes, and emollient

101
Q

Squalene

A

Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative

102
Q

Stem cells

A

Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; for health and antiaging benefits

103
Q

Sulfur

A

Sulfur reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skin surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products

104
Q

Sun protection factor

A

Abbreviated SPF; ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure

105
Q

Tea tree

A

Soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties

106
Q

Tissue respiratory factor

A

Abbreviated TRF; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredients

107
Q

Titanium dioxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation

108
Q

Toners

A

Also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin’s surface

109
Q

Urea

A

Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin surface and helps maintain healthy skin

110
Q

Vehicles

A

Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

111
Q

Water soluble

A

Mixable with water

112
Q

Witch hazel

A

Extracted from the bark of the hamamelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in a higher concentrations, an astringent

113
Q

Zinc oxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, sooth and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial

Miladys Chapter 13-chemistry (1 decks)

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