Glossary Flashcards
Alcohol
Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol
Alphahydroxy acid’s
Abbreviated AHA’s; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, Malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulates cell renewal
Algae
Derived from minerals and photohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin
Allantoin
And anti-inflammatory compound isolated from herb Comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue
Aloe vera
Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulation; emollient and film forming gum resin with hydrating, soothing, healing, and anti-microbial, and anti-inflammatory properties
Alpha lipoic acid
And natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
Alum
Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action
Ampoules
Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base
Anhydrous
Describes products that do not contain any water
Aromatherapy
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during the service
Astringents
Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin
Azulene
Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
Benzyl peroxide
Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne
Beta glucans
Ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen
Beta hydroxy acids
Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid, milder than alphahydroxy acid’s (AHA’s). BHA’s dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
Binders
Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together
Botanicals
Ingredients derived from plants
Calendula
Anti-inflammatory plant extract
Carbomers
Ingredients used to thicken cream; frequently used in gel products
Carrot
Rich in vitamins A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant
Certified colors
Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)
Chamomile
Plant extract with calming and soothing properties
Chelating agent
A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative
Chemical exfoliation
Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)
Clay masks
Oil absorbing cleaning mask that draws impurities to the surface of the skin as a dry and tighten
Cleansers
Soaps and detergents that clean the skin
Coenzyme Q 10
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalize the skin cells
Colorants
Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color
Comedogenicity
Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a build up in the follicle, leading to the to the development of a comedo (blackhead)
Cosmeceuticals
Products intended to improve the skins health and appearance
Cosmetics
As defined by the FDA: articles are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise apply to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
Delivery systems
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
Detergents
Type of surfactant used as cleansers and skin cleansing products
DMAE
Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boost the effects of other antioxidants
Echinacea
Derived of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support immune system
Emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss
Emulsifiers
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
Enzyme peels
Enzyme Products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin
Essential oils
Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and affects on the skin and psyche
Exfoliants
Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin
Exfoliation
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
Fatty acids
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
Fatty alcohols
Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
Fatty esters
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
Fragrances
Give products their scent
Fresheners
Skin freshening lotions with a low alcohol content
Functional ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients
Glycerin
Formed by a decomposition of oils or fat; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
Glycoproteins
Skin conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
Gommage
Also known as roll off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
Grapeseed extract
Powerful antioxidant was soothing properties
Green tea
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant
Healing agents
Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs that contain photohormones are used in skincare products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe and Moisturize
Horsechestnut
Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Help strengthen capillary walls; used for Couperose areas or telangiectasia
Humectants
Ingredients that attract water. Humectant draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface
Hydrophilic agents
Ingredients to attract water to the skin surface
Jojoba
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells
Kojic acid
Skin brightening agent
Lakes
Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
Lanolin
Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities
Lavender
Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
Licorice
Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation
Lipids
Fats or fat like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function if the skin
Liposomes
Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
Lubricants
Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant
Mask
Also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin
Methylparaben
One of the most frequently used preservatives because of it’s very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic
Mineral oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum
Modelage mask
Also known as thermal mask; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals if gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient
Moisturizers
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin
Noncertified colors
Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments
Oil soluble
Compatible with oil
Olfactory system
Gives us out sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses
Papaya
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
Parabens
One if the most commonly used groups if preservatives in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
Paraffin wax masks
Masks used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
Peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides
Performance ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual change in the appearance of the skin
Petroleum jelly
Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing
pH adjusters
Acids it alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products
Phytotherapy
Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits
Polyglucans
Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin
Polymers
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin surface at a microscopically controlled rate
Potassium hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soaps and creams
Preservatives
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms and cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
Propylene glycol
Humectant often used in dry – or sensitive skin moisturizers
Quaternium 15
All purpose preservative active against mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies
Retinol
Natural form of vitamin a; stimulate cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
Rose
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extract, oil, or water
Salicylic acid
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include Sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
Seaweed
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nurishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness
Serums
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
Silicones
Oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin
Sodium bicarbonate
Baking soda; and alkaline and organic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster
Sorbitol
Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
Sphingolipids
Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipid’s and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer
Squalene
Derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes, and emollient
Squalene
Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative
Stem cells
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; for health and antiaging benefits
Sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skin surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products
Sun protection factor
Abbreviated SPF; ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
Tea tree
Soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties
Tissue respiratory factor
Abbreviated TRF; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredients
Titanium dioxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
Toners
Also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin’s surface
Urea
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin surface and helps maintain healthy skin
Vehicles
Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
Water soluble
Mixable with water
Witch hazel
Extracted from the bark of the hamamelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in a higher concentrations, an astringent
Zinc oxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, sooth and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial
