Fragrance Design

Question 1

Explain the International Fragrance Research Association (IFRA) requirements for the import and sale of fragranced products with respect to potential allergens.

Answer 1

IFRA acts as an International guide for perfumers wanting to sell or export their product. It list many types of ingredient components that are allergens and their combined maximin allowed concentrations of each allergen type specific to the type of product formulation and its application.

The requirements set by IFRA are consistently evolving as new research is conducted. Complying with these restrictions are law in some countries but only a certificate of compliance in others countries. Suppliers must prove they follow IFRA Code of practises and Standards to remain a member of the Association.

Question 2

European Union (EU) requirements for the import and sale of fragranced products with respect to potential allergens.

Answer 2

The European Union has labelling requirements for products containing any of their 26 listed fragrance allergens depending on their concentration in a wash off or leave on product. The limits of 0.01 and 0.001% for rinse-off and leave-on products respectively.

It is Law in UK and EU to abide by these restrictions for sales or importing products containing Fragrance and acts as a guide for suppliers in other countries.

Question 3

What are the key differences between the two requirements?

Answer 3

• IFRA is more in depth than UE requirements as they have listed more potential allergens and has different restrictions of each of these depending on a multitude of different products and their area of application. Tells you whether you can use a frangrance/ allergen at a certain %
• UE on the other hand has only 26 listed allergens and different max. allowed for either wash-off or leave-on and this amount is the same across all 26 allergens. It acts are a labelling requirements if allegerns are above the max conc.
• UE requirements are legal obligations in UK and EU, but not in other countries, whereas IFRA are not legal obligations in most countries.

Question 4

How would you go about ensuring a particular product meets each?

Answer 4

1. List all the fragrance ingredients used and their individual concentration in the product as a %.
2. Find the composition of allergens or restricted components in ingredient as a %.
3. Calculate the combined % of each allergens or restricted component in the final formulation.
4. Decide whether the percentage of each allergens or restricted component meet either the IFRA or EU labelling requirements.

Question 5

Name four examples of classical fine fragrance types

Answer 5

1. Chypre
2. Fougere
3. Leather
4. Oriental types

Question 6

Describe the fragrance type: Chypre

Answer 6

warm, dry and earthy

Question 7

Describe the fragrance type: Fougere

Answer 7

Captures the descents of a forest. Very clean and natural smelling and are characterised by a dry, grassy, hay-like dry down.

Question 8

Describe the fragrance type: Leather

Answer 8

Slightly sweet, balsamic, woody, and slightly fruity

Question 9

Describe the fragrance type: Oriental types

Answer 9

Warm, sensual and exotic scents

Question 10

List Main components in Chypre

Answer 10

oakmoss
bergamot
jasmin
labdanum
civet and musk
perhaps woody notes such as vetiveryl acetate, patchoulli, but also a variety of aldehydes, green, fruity, leather

Question 11

List Main components in Fougere

Answer 11

Herb top note
Mossy (Oakmoss) bottom note  ́
 Freshness from Citrus
Spice for warmth and depth  ́ 
Vanilla notes for the base
- wood 
- green

Question 12

List Main components in Leather

Answer 12

Castoreum (leathery)
Ambergris (amber, woody, powdery)
Citrus notes
Mossy
Tar and Smoke or Phenolics make it more dramatically masculine

Question 13

List Main components in Oriental types

Answer 13

Vanilla
Sandalwood
Vetiver
Jasmine 
Animal notes
distinguished by citrus, green, spice

Question 14

Explain how the use of a customer persona can be used as a starting point for a fragrance design.

Answer 14

Building a customer persona will help in to get in the shoes of the person who you are designing the fragrance for. By doing this you have to understand what the scents consumer would appreciate, which helps create an overall theme to your fragrance. Also by creating a theme which is relative to the consumer you will be able prompt an emotional response that will hopefully make them want to buy your product.

Question 15

What sorts of persona factors are most important?

Answer 15

Who are they?
Where are they?
What are their interests? 
Where do they shop?
What do they buy?

Question 16

Describe four recent international trends in fragrance products, with examples.

Answer 16

Sustainability: Up cycling fragrances
Self-care: On the go, fragrance necklesses, air defuses
Individualism: Gen Z wants, innovative product, personal branding, transparency.
Alternative application methods: paint Brush or lush body spray.