Final Exam Vocab

Question 1

Fashion fabric or self

Answer 1

the main fabric of a garment

Question 2

The face side of the fabric

Answer 2

the right side of the fabric that is meant to be seen

Question 3

Facings (not to be confused with interfacing)

Answer 3

A facing is used to finish off a raw edge. Common areas for facings are necklines, armseyes, a pocket mouth, or the top edge of a waistband. Facings are the same shape and seam length of the raw edge to be finished but are usually 1 1/2” to 3” wide.

Question 4

Armseye

Answer 4

is the hole in your garment for your arm. It is also called armhole.

Question 5

Pocket mouth

Answer 5

is the opening side of your pocket.

Question 6

Interfacing

Answer 6

a textile with little dots of glue on one side that adhere with the heat of an ironed. The purpose of ironing on interfacing is to help stabilize and/or add stiffness to the fabric. The interfacing that we are using for our project is called Pellon (name brand)

Question 7

Oaktag or “tag”

Answer 7

a poster board weight like paper. Often slopers or production patterns are traced from the oaktag onto other paper. The thickness of the tag allows for a quick tracing capability and preserves the shape of the original pattern.

Question 8

Basting

Answer 8

a temporary running stitch this may be easier sewn by hand or sewn with the longest stitch length on the sewing machine.

Question 9

Stay stitch

Answer 9

is a shortened length in an area that needs to be clipped or is on the Bias. (For our class Juki sewing machines, the stitch length is 1.5

Question 10

Edge stitch

Answer 10

is sewing1/16 from the edge.

Question 11

Top stitch

Answer 11

is sewing “on top” of the fabric either for strength or decretive purposes. A typical topstitch is 1/4”, but a topstitch can go anywhere from 1/8” and wider; by some, anything smaller than 1/8” is called an edgestitch. Keep in mind that some costume shops/fashion houses have their differences in terms. Sewing on top, the right side of the fabric up. Top stitching can be decorative or used for strength. A typical top stitch is ¼” away from the edge or seam.

Question 12

Understitching

Answer 12

is an edge stitch with the purpose of tacking down the seam allowance to the facing. By under stitching, the seam will have a slight turn inward, giving the outer edge of the garment a smooth finish. It also prevents the facing from popping up.

Question 13

Stitch in the ditch

Answer 13

sewing between the seam by doing so the stitching is hidden.

Question 14

RS

Answer 14

Right side

Question 15

RST

Answer 15

Right sides together

Question 16

WS

Answer 16

Wrong side

Question 17

WST

Answer 17

Wrong sides together

Question 18

SA

Answer 18

Seam allowance

Question 19

Ease stitch

Answer 19

is a stitch with a longer stitch length than normal sewing. For our Juki sewing machines, the ease stitch length is 5. Some home sewing machine , the longer stitch is 4.

Question 20

Apex

Answer 20

the very tip of the highest point of a dart or continuous placket.

Question 21

Continuous placket

Answer 21

is a bounded slit in a garment that is an opening for a cuff or bodice. This type of placket may be done where there is no seam to create an opening.

Question 22

Inset sleeve

Answer 22

a type of sleeve that requires ease and is sewn into a circular armseye.

Question 23

Pleats

Answer 23

is an intake of fabric that creates a fold by doubling fabric back upon it’s self.

Question 24

Inverted Box Pleat

Answer 24

is a type of pleat where two folds (the right side and the left side) meet in the middle on the right side of the fabric. If the two folds (the right side and the left side) meet in the middle on the wrong side of the fabric, this is called a box pleat. A box pleat creates a rectangle column on the right side of the fabric.

Question 25

Sew-on facing

Answer 25

is type of facing where an extra piece of fabric is sewn to finish off a raw edge. Some facings can be extra fabric that is folded back on itself to create a finished edge. This is called a “fold-on” facing.

Question 26

Sleeve cap

Answer 26

the top curved portion on the sleeve.

Question 27

Collar stand

Answer 27

a small seamed band that allows the collar to stand up.

Question 28

CF

Answer 28

Center front

Question 29

CB

Answer 29

Center back

Question 30

SS

Answer 30

Side seam

Question 31

SF

Answer 31

Side front

Question 32

Interlocking Knit

Answer 32

is a stretchy fabric that is knitted with interlocking stitches. The process differs from other knits by the two rows of needle directly behind the other creating it to interlock. You can identify the interlocking knits by looking at the face and wrong side of the fabric; both sides will have vertical rows.

Question 33

Jersey Knit

Answer 33

a series of loops that have a vertical row on the face side and on the wrong side have horizonal rows Jersey knits are thinner and curl when cut. It’s best to choose an interlocking knit over a jersey knit for our first project.

Question 34

Knit ribbing

Answer 34

a knit fabric used for collars and cuffs in garments because of its elasticity properties The knit has equal rows of “knit” and “purl” creating large waves in the weave.

Question 35

Stay tape or twill tape

Answer 35

a non-stretch cloth weaved tape. It can be used in construction of a garment where seams may stretch

Question 36

Applique

Answer 36

a decorative design cut out of non-fray fabric that is applied and stitched on top of the fabric

Question 37

Felt

Answer 37

a fabric made by pressing, matting and condensing fibers together to create a material Felt is great for crafts and appliques because the fabric does not fray.

Question 38

Fleece

Answer 38

a knit fabric that is then brushed on both sides of the fabric creating fluffy fibers Fleeces are great for applique because the cut raw edge does not fray.

Question 39

Zig-Zag Stitch

Answer 39

unlike a straight stitch, the zig-zag stitch jumps horizontally back and forth creating a continuous “Z” pattern. Zig-zag stitches are great for finishing off raw edges or seams that need a little stretch.

Question 40

Ball point needle

Answer 40

machine needles used for stretchy fabrics like knits | If you are having troubles with stitches skipping, try a ball point needle.

Question 41

Gathering stitch

Answer 41

two rows of ease stitching with no back stitch in the beginning or end The top two ends are pulled simultaneously, and the fabric will ruffle.

Question 42

Cover stitch

Answer 42

adds a professional finish to hem. This hem has two to three stitching lines on the top and a serging look on the back. The cover stitch machine does not cut and bind the fabric like a typical serger. A cover stitch is desired when hemming knits because it will stretch, along with the fabric.

Question 43

Sloper

Answer 43

a template without any seam allowance.