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Basics Of Apparel Construction > Final Exam Vocab > Flashcards

Final Exam Vocab Flashcards

1
Q

Fashion fabric or self

A

the main fabric of a garment

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2
Q

The face side of the fabric

A

the right side of the fabric that is meant to be seen

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3
Q

Facings (not to be confused with interfacing)

A

A facing is used to finish off a raw edge. Common areas for facings are necklines, armseyes, a pocket mouth, or the top edge of a waistband. Facings are the same shape and seam length of the raw edge to be finished but are usually 1 1/2” to 3” wide.

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4
Q

Armseye

A

is the hole in your garment for your arm. It is also called armhole.

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5
Q

Pocket mouth

A

is the opening side of your pocket.

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6
Q

Interfacing

A

a textile with little dots of glue on one side that adhere with the heat of an ironed. The purpose of ironing on interfacing is to help stabilize and/or add stiffness to the fabric. The interfacing that we are using for our project is called Pellon (name brand)

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7
Q

Oaktag or “tag”

A

a poster board weight like paper. Often slopers or production patterns are traced from the oaktag onto other paper. The thickness of the tag allows for a quick tracing capability and preserves the shape of the original pattern.

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8
Q

Basting

A

a temporary running stitch this may be easier sewn by hand or sewn with the longest stitch length on the sewing machine.

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9
Q

Stay stitch

A

is a shortened length in an area that needs to be clipped or is on the Bias. (For our class Juki sewing machines, the stitch length is 1.5

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10
Q

Edge stitch

A

is sewing1/16 from the edge.

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11
Q

Top stitch

A

is sewing “on top” of the fabric either for strength or decretive purposes. A typical topstitch is 1/4”, but a topstitch can go anywhere from 1/8” and wider; by some, anything smaller than 1/8” is called an edgestitch. Keep in mind that some costume shops/fashion houses have their differences in terms. Sewing on top, the right side of the fabric up. Top stitching can be decorative or used for strength. A typical top stitch is ¼” away from the edge or seam.

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12
Q

Understitching

A

is an edge stitch with the purpose of tacking down the seam allowance to the facing. By under stitching, the seam will have a slight turn inward, giving the outer edge of the garment a smooth finish. It also prevents the facing from popping up.

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13
Q

Stitch in the ditch

A

sewing between the seam by doing so the stitching is hidden.

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14
Q

RS

A

Right side

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15
Q

RST

A

Right sides together

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16
Q

WS

A

Wrong side

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17
Q

WST

A

Wrong sides together

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18
Q

SA

A

Seam allowance

19
Q

Ease stitch

A

is a stitch with a longer stitch length than normal sewing. For our Juki sewing machines, the ease stitch length is 5. Some home sewing machine , the longer stitch is 4.

20
Q

Apex

A

the very tip of the highest point of a dart or continuous placket.

21
Q

Continuous placket

A

is a bounded slit in a garment that is an opening for a cuff or bodice. This type of placket may be done where there is no seam to create an opening.

22
Q

Inset sleeve

A

a type of sleeve that requires ease and is sewn into a circular armseye.

23
Q

Pleats

A

is an intake of fabric that creates a fold by doubling fabric back upon it’s self.

24
Q

Inverted Box Pleat

A

is a type of pleat where two folds (the right side and the left side) meet in the middle on the right side of the fabric. If the two folds (the right side and the left side) meet in the middle on the wrong side of the fabric, this is called a box pleat. A box pleat creates a rectangle column on the right side of the fabric.

25
Q

Sew-on facing

A

is type of facing where an extra piece of fabric is sewn to finish off a raw edge. Some facings can be extra fabric that is folded back on itself to create a finished edge. This is called a “fold-on” facing.

26
Q

Sleeve cap

A

the top curved portion on the sleeve.

27
Q

Collar stand

A

a small seamed band that allows the collar to stand up.

28
Q

CF

A

Center front

29
Q

CB

A

Center back

30
Q

SS

A

Side seam

31
Q

SF

A

Side front

32
Q

Interlocking Knit

A

is a stretchy fabric that is knitted with interlocking stitches. The process differs from other knits by the two rows of needle directly behind the other creating it to interlock. You can identify the interlocking knits by looking at the face and wrong side of the fabric; both sides will have vertical rows.

33
Q

Jersey Knit

A

a series of loops that have a vertical row on the face side and on the wrong side have horizonal rows
Jersey knits are thinner and curl when cut. It’s best to choose an interlocking knit over a jersey knit for our first project.

34
Q

Knit ribbing

A

a knit fabric used for collars and cuffs in garments because of its elasticity properties
The knit has equal rows of “knit” and “purl” creating large waves in the weave.

35
Q

Stay tape or twill tape

A

a non-stretch cloth weaved tape. It can be used in construction of a garment where seams may stretch

36
Q

Applique

A

a decorative design cut out of non-fray fabric that is applied and stitched on top of the fabric

37
Q

Felt

A

a fabric made by pressing, matting and condensing fibers together to create a material
Felt is great for crafts and appliques because the fabric does not fray.

38
Q

Fleece

A

a knit fabric that is then brushed on both sides of the fabric creating fluffy fibers
Fleeces are great for applique because the cut raw edge does not fray.

39
Q

Zig-Zag Stitch

A

unlike a straight stitch, the zig-zag stitch jumps horizontally back and forth creating a continuous “Z” pattern. Zig-zag stitches are great for finishing off raw edges or seams that need a little stretch.

40
Q

Ball point needle

A

machine needles used for stretchy fabrics like knits

If you are having troubles with stitches skipping, try a ball point needle.

41
Q

Gathering stitch

A

two rows of ease stitching with no back stitch in the beginning or end
The top two ends are pulled simultaneously, and the fabric will ruffle.

42
Q

Cover stitch

A

adds a professional finish to hem. This hem has two to three stitching lines on the top and a serging look on the back. The cover stitch machine does not cut and bind the fabric like a typical serger. A cover stitch is desired when hemming knits because it will stretch, along with the fabric.

43
Q

Sloper

A

a template without any seam allowance.

Basics Of Apparel Construction (1 decks)

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