Final Flashcards
Warp
It’s the part of the fabric (yarn) that runs from top to bottom
Face –
The side that is seen when a garment is being worn
Back –
The side of a garment that is not seen when being worn
Filling –
The part of the fabric that runs from left to right
Weight –
How much the fabric weighs or feels in total. There are light weight, medium weight and heavy weight fabrics.
Grain –
Grain is the direction of the yarns in a fabric.
Selvages –
The side edges of a woven fabric
Weaving Methods –
Plain weave, basket weave, twill weave, satin weave
Count –
The Fabric count is the number of warp and weft yarns per unit
Width –
Fabric width is the distance from one selvedge to the other
- What are the differences between Balanced vs unbalanced weave?
Unbalanced weave fabrics that have an unequal number of yarns when comparing the number of yarns per inch for the warp and filling, while balanced weave have an equal number of years per inch.
- Fabric count – how to read and calculate- and a higher number of yarns per inch effect- ?
It is measured by counting the number of threads in one square inch of fabric, including both the length warp and width weft threads.
For example, if there are 100 threads per inch horizontally and 100 lengthwise, the fabric will have a thread count of 200.
- How to identify:
Plain weave
warp and fill yarns are interlaced over and under each other in alternating fashion
basket weave
Two or more warp and/or two or more filling yarns.
Fairly loose in weave, not as durable as regular plain weave
Variation
2x2, 4x4,etc.. (full basket)
2x1, 1x2, 2x3 .. (a half basket, similar to rib weave)
Twill Weave -
A twill weave is characterized by diagonal lines of warp and weft floats on the face of the fabric. Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right (Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift(S-twill) corner. Smaller repeat twill is (3). It means take at least end and three picks produce twill weave.
Twill weave filling faced
Predominance of filling yarns on the surface.
Seldom used
Less durable than other twills.
Satin/Sateen weave -
Long floats in the warp or filling direction.
lustrous
filament yarns with a minimal twist.
satin or sateen weave warp faced
Warp thread count is higher than filling.
most common method
smooth lustrous of filament yarns
Satin/Sateen filling faced
Less common
Filling yarns float on the surface
- What is the difference between satin and sateen?
Satin-weave fabrics are made from filament yarns
Usually Warp face
Silk or other filament fiber
Lustrous
Sateen fabrics are made from staple yarns
Usually Filling faced
cotton yarns
Heavier, not as drapable as satin fabric
- What is crepe – back satin?
Crepe is a weaving or fabric treatment method that results in a unique rippling, three-dimensional texture.
- How to make Back Satin/Crepe?
Loosely twisted, lustrous warp yarns are combined with tightly twisted filling yarns
- What colors can we get from natural plant dyes?
Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, and Purple.
- What are the Advantages and disadvantages of natural dyeing?
natural dyes are ecofriendly
protective to skin
have very poor bonding with textile fibre materials
necessitate mordanting with metallic mordants
- What are the advantages and disadvantages of chemical dyeing?
it is easy to find and can be used easily.
requires more calculation and precise measurement, as a slight mistake can lead to entire fabric being destroyed.
- What is Color fastness and what are some examples?
Colorfastness is the ability of a textile material to retain its color during use & care.
Examples:
Colorfastness to light
Color fastness to washing
Colorfastness to Dry cleaning
Colorfastness to crocking
- What is Crocking?
- Crocking is The transference of color by rubbing from one colored textile material to another
- Mordants
A mordant or dye fixative is a substance used to set dyes on fabrics by forming a coordination complex with the dye, which then attaches to the fabric
- What are the Five types of mordants?
Alum, Chrome, Iron, Copper, and Tin
a) which mordant is the most used
Alum
which mordant is the most toxic?
Chrome
- Types of synthetic dyeing
Solution Dye, Fiber Dye, Yarn dye, Fabric Dye, and Garment Dye
- What is skein dyeing?
Large threads of yarn are hung on sticks & placed in a vat for dyeing
- What is package dyeing?
common.
natural yarns that have been wound on perforated spools are dyed in a pressurized tank.
- What is beam dyeing?
Wet process
fabric is wound onto a perforated beam The dye liquor is forced through the perforations on the inside of the beam to the outside (and vice versa) in order to impart color.
- What is space dyeing?
multicolor or blurred dye look is created.
textured pattern
more color in the fabric.
can be done in any type of fiber- natural or synthetic
- What is the Batch process?
gradual transfer of dye from a dye bath to the textile material in the same piece of equipment.
The various methods of batch dyeing result from the type of machine used in the dyeing process.
- What is the difference between union dye and cross dye?
Union dye
containins two or more types of fibers or yarns to the same shade so as to achieve the appearance of a solid colored fabric
Cross Dye
blend or combination fabrics to two or more shades by the use of dyes
- Disadvantages of garment dye –
High Cost of Processing.
More Handling of Material Required.
Selection of Interlining Requires Greater Attention.
Thorough Quality Check Required.
Increased Requirement for Labor.
Color fastness of pigments vs dye
Pigments are generally more lightfast, more colorfast, and give greater color control.
- Dyes vs. pigments
dyes are soluble while the
pigments are essentially insoluble
- What is the process of hand printing?
Hand block printing involves carving a desired pattern or design on a wooden block, covering this block with ink or dye and then stamping it on the fabric
- What is Direct printing?
Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
- What is discharge printing?
Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.
- What is resist printing?
Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground.
- What is the oldest direct hand printing method?
Hand block printing
- What is batik?
is an Indonesian technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to the whole cloth. This technique originated from the island of Java, Indonesia. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a canting, or by printing the resist with a copper stamp called a cap
- What is ikat?
Ikat is a dyeing technique originating from Indonesia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In ikat, the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The yarns are then dyed.
- What is screen printing?
it is a fabric printing method that uses a screen to transfer ink onto a garment. A screen is made up of a mesh fabric that’s covered in an impermeable substance, such as vinyl. The design is then created by drawing on the screen with a squeegee
- What mechanized printing method is suitable for large quantities?
Roller Printing
- What is rotary printing?
A continuous method of printing in which a perforated cylindrical screen is used to apply color. Color is forced from the interior of the screen onto the fabric. The dye is fed into the hollow center of the screen.
- What kinds of print defects we have mostly?
Poor dye penetration:
from improper preparation.
off-grain print:
Printing on fabric that has a bow or skew
off-register:
one or more of the screens is not aligned properly.
be sold as seconds, thus reducing a company’s profit margins.
- What is Permanent finish?
lasts for the life of the fabric
- What is durable finish?
the effectiveness of the finish gradually diminishes after repeated laundering or cleaning.
- What is semi-durable finish?
Loses its effectiveness after repeated laundering, cleaning, and use.
The finish must be re-applied to maintain effectiveness.
- What is non-durable finish?
starch is partially or completely removed after one laundering or cleaning.
- What are Calendared finish?
A mechanical finish achieved by pressing fabrics between two or more rollers.
To smooth the fabric & create interesting surface effects.
Moire –
watermark, water-stained, and wood grain are used to describe the appearance of moiré fabric
The technique is most often applied to ribbed fabrics. (taffeta, faille, or bengaline)
End use: drapery, upholstered furniture, accent cushions, and formal dresses.
Embossing
creates texture by giving the fabric a raised three-dimensional effect.
Embossed designed provide surface texture at a lower cost than do woven designs.
Should not be ironed; it may demised by the pressure
Glazing
applying starch, wax, or resin prior to passing the fabric through very smooth rollers that move at a high speed.
Polished surface
Example: Glazed chintz and polished cottons
End use: drapery, upholstery
Cire
Wet look
High surface polish
Ciré means “wax” in French.
End use: backpacks, sleeping bags, outerwear fabrics.
Napping –
Napped fabrics can be produced only with staple yarns.
Brushing –
A mechanical process using a brush to gently raise the fibers from the fabric surface.
Sanding and Sueding
The fabric passes between rubber pressure rollers and then over an abrasive cylinder.
Sanding gives fine fabrics a soft feel and is used for silk fabrics.
Sueding gives fabrics to Look and Feel like suede leather
- What is flocking?
A process in which short fibers are “glued” onto the surface of fabrics by adhesive materials.
- What is burn out?
is produced by dissolving one type of fiber
Example - Apply acid or alkali printing on Polyester. blended fabric will destroy the natural fiber & leave a polyester skeleton.
Acetone is commonly used to dissolve acetate fibers.
- What is denim wet processing?
Stone or abradant washing
produces a faded look by abrading the fabric.
Chemical washing
Bleaching agents are used to change the color of denim
Enzyme washing
giving the fabrics a softer touch
- What is Denim dry processing?
also known as abrasive finishes
hand sanding, sandblasting, brushing, destruction (holes, tears), laser burning, and laser discharge. Dry processes are typically applied to a specific areas rather than a whole garment.
- What is plisse?
produced by applying a chemical in vertical stripes to shrink those areas of the material.
Shrinkage creates a puckered look similar to that of seersucker fabric,
tension weaving used in making seersucker.
- Stiffening finish –
non-durable finishes such as starch
Parchmentization of cellulose fiber also stiffens fabric.
