Fibre Analysis Flashcards
History
- Silk was being spun and worn by the Chinese for well over 5000 years and at the same time the Egyptians were wearing both cotton and wool
- I20th Century man-made or semi-synthetic fibres began to be introduced starting with acetate in 1904
- first commercially viable fibres was Rayon 1905
- The following 30 years saw the introduction of cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate and many others
- 1935 when Wallace Carothers (DuPont) first synthesized Nylon – The first true synthetic
- Next came acrylic in 1940
- The end of the 20th century
Nomex – Fire resistant, high strength, tear resistant fibre
Kevlar – Extremely strong material used in body armour
Various other technical fibres such as modacrylic and low drag PU continues the quest for the ideal fibre
Fibre properties
tenacity
Overall structural strength of a fibre (both wet and dry)
fibre properties durability
The ability of a fibre to withstand rubbing or friction
fibre properties dimensional stability
The ability of a fibre to maintain its original shape, neither shrinking nor stretching
fibre properties pilling properties
The formation of balls of loose fibres on the surface of a fabric resulting from abrasion
fibre properties elastic recovery
The ability of a fibre to return to its original length after it is stretched
fibre properties creep
How a fibre responds to a constant stretching force
fibre properties flexibility
The ease by which fibres can be bent or folded which affects the overall drape
fibre properties resilience
How easily a fibres returns to original state after creasing
fibre properties absorbency
The ability of a fibre to take in moisture
fibre properties thermal properties
– How well the fibre insulates the wearer
fibre properties effects of heat
Clearly an important property… Consider the effects of a hot iron on plastics!
fibre properties synthetics
– Often thermoplastic and may readily melt!
fibre properties cellulosic
may scorch or burn
fibre properties flammability
wool is flammable
fibre properties stability
Stability with respect to insect attack, light, chemical attack etc.
2 main categories of fibres
Natural – derived from animal, vegetable or mineral
Synthetic or man-made- semi- synthetic, derived from regenerated natural materials such as cellulose in the form of wood pulp. Synthetic, often derived from petrochemicals
3 classes of natural fibres
Animal fibres- proteinaceous materials
Sub divided in to 3 further groups depending on structure- silks (fibroin), wool (keratin and hair (keratin)
Vegetable fibres
Again subdivided into 3 groups depending on derivation- seed fibres, bast (stem) fibres and leaf fibres
Mineral fibres
Very few examples other than asbestos which itself present itself in 3 common forms
silk
- A material obtained from the larvae of the silk moth
- Silk is spun from 2 glands in the mouthparts of the creature
- This produces two individual strands which are then encased in a protein known as sericin
- the sericin casing is degummed by dissolving in dilute alkaline revealing two translucent fibres of triangular cross section
- Composed of the protein fibroin, which is rich in alanine, glycine and serine and contains no sulphur containing amino-acids
- Forensically not very common
wool and animal fur/hair
Animal fibres of this type are primarily composed of the protein keratin made of sulphur rich amino acids but varies by species
Ovine (sheep) Wool is hugely common
Soft, strong, elastic, warm, breathable and comparatively inexpensive
Wool can be easily identified microscopically and shows considerable variation according to sheep breed
All wools will show obvious signs of scaly morphology and the number of will again vary by breed of sheep
A cross section shows a round/ovoid morphology
3 types of cells that make up hair
– Medulla cells – Where present often dead and air filled
– Cortical cells – Spindle shaped cells packed together
– Cuticle cells – Forming a tough outer sheath of tip facing overlapping scales which vary between species and hence can be fairly discriminating
vegetable fibres - cotton
most common vegetable fibres
A seed fibre obtained from Gossypium hirsutum and other species
Soft, strong, elastic, warm and breathable
Represents >50% of annual fibre usage
Composed of ~95% cellulose
After maturation, the fibre walls shrink and the central hollow lumen becomes smaller and flattens which evokes convolutions or twist which improves flexibility and allows better interlocking in yarn
- The fibre is easily dyed with a range of materials
- Can be treated in a process called mercerisation in which the fibre is treated with NaOH and elongated causing the fibre to swell
- This produces a more lustrous, softer, stronger fibre that takes up dye better
vegetable fibres hemp
Hemp fibres were once much more commonly used in than today
- A bast fibre obtained from Cannabis sativa and species low in THC
- Used in a variety of objects from clothing to bags to cordage and bedding although often blended with other materials e.g. Jute, cotton, flax etc.
- Most commonly a technical fibre
- As a material, its cheap and considered to be quite ecologically sound… Each plant can yield a significant quantity of fibres and rarely requires the use of pesticides
- Composed of ~75% cellulose, 17% hemi-cellulose, pectins, lignin and fats and waxes
- Identified microscopically
mineral fibres asbestos
- Asbestos is a naturally mineral fibres
- A generic term for a number of silicate fibre types with high elasticity and high resistance to corrosion, wear and tear and heat
- Mined in a variety of countries
- Used industrially where it was once mixed with concrete and other materials to produce fire resistant board, insulation etc.
- used in some friction materials and some fireproofing
- Four major varieties
• Chrysotile (White) – Mg3(Si2O5)(OH)4
• Crocidolite (Blue) - Na2Fe2+3Fe3+2Si8O22(OH)2
• Cummingtononite-grunerite or Amosite (Brown) – Fe7Si8O22(OH)2
• Anthophyllite – Various forms - Identification by complex microscopy