Fibers and Weaves Flashcards
To understand the various weaves that make up fabrics and the characteristics of various fibers
Fabrics are made by weaving at least 2 sets of yarns. These yarns are called _____
warp yarns (that run vertically) and filler yarns (that run horizontally)
What is a Plain Weave?
Weave where the filing yarn passes under and over each warp yarn. This is the simplest of all weaves. It’s creates a strong fabric.
What is a Twill Weave?
Weave that creates diagonal lines on the fabric. Examples are denim and garbardine. Fabrics made from this weave are strong.
What is a Satin Weave?
Where one set of yarns goes over one yarn then under between 4 to 8 yarns. This creates a fabric with a sheen and smoothness.
How should a Satin Weave garment be spotted?
Spot from the wrong side of the fabric. Don’t brush the fabric. Instead, tamp lightly with a padded brush and hold the steam gun at least 4” away at 90 degree angle.
What is taffeta?
A type of fabric made in a plain weave that has a smoothness and crispness, due in part to the high-twist of the yarns. Can be made out of acetate, silk, polyester or nylon.
How should taffeta be spotted?
Taffeta must be kept smooth at all times.
So, don’t brush a stain. Instead, use light tamping. Don’t allow POG to stay on acetate taffeta or color loss will happen.
What is chiffon?
Lightweight, sheer fabric made in a loose plain weave. Usually made of silk.
How should chiffon be spotted?
The yarns are fragile. Never brush. Instead, tamp lightly with a padded brush. Limit the amount of moisture used when spotting and dry quickly with the steam gun. Clean on short cycle in net bag.
What is crepe?
A fabric with some elasticity and and uneven surface.
How should crepe be spotted?
Since most crepe shrinks when wet, limit the amount of moisture used in spotting and keep the spotted area small. Do not wetclean unless the label says it’s safe (or after testing the fabric)
What is a basket weave?
A plain weave using two-sets of warp yarns and two-sets of filling yarns. Generally a strong fabric.
What is a knit?
When yarns are inter-looped together instead of interlaced (weaved). Allows for garments to fit the body closely while also having stretch and recovery.
When spotting a knit garment, ______
keep the steam gun at a right angle to the fabric and at least 5” away.
When spotting Velvet fabric, never ______
spot on the reverse side (causes the pile fibers to come out)
Velvet with an Acetate pile should never ___
be spotted with water or any wetside chemicals (it will permanently flatten the pile).
Velveteen is usually made of ______. Unlike velvet, it can be _______
cotton; spotted on both the wetside and dryside.
Acetate is a __________. Things to watch out for with acetate include _______
synthetic fiber; often has dyes that come out with dryside and wetside chemicals, sensitive to heat (ie: subject to fume fading), alcohol bleeds the dye, and color change can occur with exposure to acids (often seen as a change from blue to red).
Acrylic is a ________. Things to remember about acyrlic include ________
synthetic fiber; put acrylic items in net bags both when drycleaning or wetcleaning, very sensitive to heat, use light steam when finishing.
Polyester is a _________. Things to remember with polyester include _____
synthetic fiber; wrinkle-resistant, hold creases and pleats well, sensitive to heat, generally a sturdy fabric, colors generally won’t bleed in wetcleaning or drycleaning.
Nylon is a ________. Things to remember about nylon include ________
synthetic fiber; accumulates static and pills, wet cleans well, sensitive to heat (will permanently yellow in high heat)
Spandex is a _________. Things of note about spandex are ______
synthetic fiber; it is washable and drycleanable (though it may shrink/lose color in drycleaning), avoid high temperatures and chlorine, oils tend to weaken the fiber. If possible, you should wetclean spandex and dry on low temperature.
Modacrylic is a ________. Things to remember about it are _______
synthetic fiber; often used in making fake fur, it is sensitive to heat, avoid steaming (or allow light buck steam), let it dry completely before moving. To dry it, give it a short, low-temperature (under 120 degrees) cycle.
Microfiber is a ________. Things of note include ________
synthetic fiber; usually made from polyester or nylon, often feels like silk and may have a clammy feeling.
Cotton is a ______. Things of note are _______
Cellulose fiber; often has sizing or dyes that are soluble in solvent or water, strong acids left in the fabric cause damage, wrinkles easily, prone to shrinkage, finishes and fiber can yellow from long exposure to light. Also, it can lose its strength if chlorine bleach is used too often.
Linen is a ________. Things to remember include ________
Cellulose fiber; wrinkles easily, poor colorfastness in washing or drycleaning, damaged by strong acids, fabric is weakened in areas that are repeatedly creased, hard to press unless dampened with water first, when spotting tamp only, never brush
Rayon is a _______. Things of note include ________
Cellulose fiber; Damaged by strong acids, loses much of its strength when wet, hard to remove water spots, goes by other names (Tencel, Viscose, Bemberg)
To test the color(s) on a garment before applying a spotting chemical, first ______, second _______, then ________, an last ______
place a hidden seam of the garment over a white cloth; apply the spotting agent you want to use; fold the white cloth over the spotted area; unfold the cloth and check for color bleeding.
When testing the color on a garment, always ________
test with the chemical you intend to use to spot or clean the garment (ie: if you want to see if it’s washable with NSD, then test with NSD).
Velvet fabric can show rapid loss of its pile in the following areas:
elbows, knees, and seat areas. This is usually due to normal wear.
When spotting acetate, be careful when using the chemical ________ because it can ______.
POG; bleed the dye.
Generally, cellulose fibers can be damaged by ________, and protein fibers can be damaged by _______.
strong acids (ie: General Formula, Rust Remover); strong alkalis (Protein Remover, Ammonia).
Why must garments made of high-contrast colors (usually black-white, red-white, or navy-white) need to be cleaned carefully?
There is a good chance the color will bleed during drycleaning or wetcleaning. This can be due to the manufacturer over-dying the fabric and/or not stablizing the dye so it doesn’t bleed.
You should never mix _______ bleach and ______ bleach in a bleach bath.
oxidizing; reducing bleaches
To increase the penetration of bleach in a fabric, what can you do?
Add a few drops of NSD.
If there’s a chance a garment may shrink if wetcleaned/put in a bleach bath, you should _________
measure the garment beforehand and then measure again afterwards to ensure the garment hasn’t shrunk.
After you bleach soak a garment, how should it be dried?
Hang to dry. Heat, moisture and mechanical action can cause shrinkage.
Generally, you should hold the steam gun at least ______ away and at a ______
4 inches away from the fabric; at a right angle. The more delicate a fabric is, the farther away you should keep the gun.
Most wetside stains tend to _______, while dryside stains will ________. Thus, if you want a clue as to whether a stain is wetside or dryside, look ______.
penetrate into the fabric; remain mostly on the surface; look on the reverse side of the fabric. If the stain is visible on that side, it’s likely a wetside stain.
Check for alkaline-sensitive dyes on these fabrics before using an alkali agent:
blue and green wool or silk and red dyes on cellulose fibers
Check of acid-sensitive dyes on these fabric before using an acidic agent:
blue acetate and red dyes on cellulose fabrics.
What are some reasons you shouldn’t put damp or wet items in the dryclean machine?
The wet areas will pick up soils and dyes removed by the perc, it will cause pilling and chafing of wool and silk, and it can create hard wrinkles in wet-spotted areas that may not come out in pressing.
Describe Acetate’s characteristics and things to be wary of.
Made from wood pulp. Has dyes that are soluble in solvent and water. Be careful with POG, as it can bleed the dye. Sensitive to heat. Can change color from contact with acids. Alcohol bleeds the dye (as can be found in cologne/perfume). Soluble in acetone and acetic acid at 33% concentration or more.
Describe Acrylic’s characteristics and things to consider in cleaning.
Made from petroleum. Can be dry cleaned or wetcleaned. Always put in a net bag for cleaning. Dries quickly. Very sensitive to heat, so use light steam to finish. Any movement while it’s warm can cause permanent stretching.
Describe Polyester characteristics and things to consider in cleaning.
Source is petroleum. Wrinkle-resistant, retains creases and pleats well, often blended with wool, rayon, or cotton. Heat-sensitive. Usually colorfast to dry cleaning or washing.
Describe Nylon’s characteristics and things to consider when cleaning.
Made from petroleum. It accumulates static electricity and pills. Wet cleans well. Heat sensitive, will yellow in high heat.
Describe Spandex’s characteristics and things to consider when cleaning.
Known for its elasticity. It is washable and usually dry cleanable, though some Spandex may shrink or lose color in dry cleaning. Chlorine and high temperatures should be avoided. Body oil and other oils slowly weaken it
What is Modacrylic?
Synthetic fibers used in making imitation fur. It’s heat-sensitive, so give it a short, low-temperature drying cycle (under 120 F). To finish modacrylic, either avoid steaming it or give it a light buck steam and let it dry completely before touching or moving.
Never use ______ or ______ on protein fibers
strong alkalis or chlorine bleach
Describe wool’s advantages.
great insulating properties (keeps wearer cooler in summer, warmer in winter), absorbs moisture well, dyes well with stable dyes, generally not affected by diluted acids, generally retains its shape well.
Describe wool’s disadvantages.
sensitive to alkaline solutions, can be damaged by excess agitation when wet with water.
Unlike worsted wool, woolen items can’t _____
hold a crease or retain their shape well.
There are two types of Angora. One comes from _____, while the other comes from _______. Both may be blended with wool or other fibers to ____ and both should be treated as fragile fabrics, which means _____
the Angora rabbit; Angora goat; create a softer more luxurious feel; they should be both be spotted and cleaned with reduced moisture, heat, and agitation.
Camelhair fiber comes from _______ while Cashmere comes from _____. Both should be treated as a fragile fabric, meaning spot and clean with _____
the under coat of camels; the cashmere goat; reduced agitation, heat and moisture. Cashmere in particular has poor abrasion resistance.
Describe some of silk’s strengths.
It’s absorbent, dries quickly, and gives up most soils easily.
Describe some of silk’s weaknesses.
Sensitive to sweat and sunlight (can weaken the fabric and damage the dyes), can be damaged by strong acids and alkalis, dyes can be removed or damaged by agitation, especially when wet. Spot and clean with reduced agitation, moisture and heat.
Describe what weighted silk is.
silk fabric with metallic weighting. It adds weight to the silk to improve how it drapes. However, it decreases the durability of the silk (ie: may split/crack with little wear or during dry cleaning, sunlight and sweat will quickly weaken it, spotting chemicals may react negatively with the weighting).
All cellulose fibers come from ______. They all tend to ______
plants; dye well, are non-linting, absorb moisture well, and can be damaged with strong acids.
