fibers Flashcards
what do i need to provide for materials and applications ?
physical properties and working characteristics product function aesthetics cost manufacture and disposal
annotate a fabric?
thermal insulation ability to reflect light thermoplastic flammability ability to absorb moisture development of static electricity
natural plant fibers?
cotton
linen
ramie
natural animal fibers?
wool
silk
natural hair fibers?
cashmere
mohair
angora
manufactured regenerated fibers ?
viscose
acetate
new generation lyocells?
modal
tencel
lyocell
synthetic fibers?
nylon (polyamide) polyester acrylic Elastoplast chlorofibers (polyvinyl)
what are smart materials ?
reactive materials, photochromic dyes, phases changing materials.
smart materials?
plastic metals mircrofibre fleece gore-tex heat sensitive micro-encapsulated
modern materials?
mircrofibres
nanofibres
mircroencapsulated fibres and fabric
methods for investigating and testing materials?
flammability crease resistance shrink resistance colour fastness strength pilling
wool ?
warm to wear slow absorbency, very slow drying comfortable medium strength soft and good drape very stretchy and crease resistant wash and iron with care, may shrink, can be dry cleaned.
silk?
cool to wear but good insulation fast absorbency comfortable soft and elegant drape good strength stretchy and creases drop out wash and iron with care best dry cleaned
cotton?
cool to wear unless brushed highly absorbent, slow drying comfortable unless wet soft and good drape good strength abrasion resistant and durability not stretchy creases easy wash, boil, iron, damp may shrink
linen?
cool to wear highly absorbent, slow drying stiffer and harder than cotton smooth and good drape good strength and durability not stretchy, creases badly wash, iron and boil
ramie ?
average warmth good absorbency comfortable especially in warmth stiffer than brittle handle does not drape due to stiffness strongest natural fiber , stronger when wet not durable little elasticity can be washed or dry cleaned
cashmere ?
very warm good thermal insulation used for coats and suits and interior slow absorbance soft and comfortable light good drape not durable good elasticity crease resistant wash with care
mohair ?
good thermal insulation for evening wear and knitwear poor absorbance comfortable soft and light good drape durable and hard wearing good elasticity crease resistant use extreme after care
angora
very warm slow absorbency comfortable soft average drape durable fair elasticity hand wash do not tumble dry
manufactured fibres: viscose
low warmth more absorbent than cotton comfortable soft and firm good drape lower strength than cotton poor elasticity creases easy washable and easy to iron
lyocell which is a high performance viscose fibre
low warmth good absorbency comfortable nice handle good drape strong poor elasticity disposable biodegradable can be recycled
rubber
good warmth low absorbance uncomfortable due to lack of breathablity stretchy poor drape good natural stretch dont crease sensitiveness to light , oils, solvents and grease. can be washed easy recyclable.
modal (regenerated)
low warmth high absorbency very comfortable and soft silky soft handle good drape lower strength, abrasion and durability poor elasticity creases easy washable cant be bleached easy to iron can be dry cleaned..
asbestos
good thermal insulation poor absorbency itchy often uncomfortable rough handle, poor drape very strong not stretchy difficult aftercare.
acetate
low warmth low absorbency fast drying comfortable prone static soft elegant drape low strength poor abrasion resistance creases machine washable iron with care
polyester
low warmth very low absorbency comfortable prone static soft with firm handle very strong and abrasion resistant. stretchy crease resistant machine washable and iron with care.
kevlor (Aramid)
low warmth heat resistant average absorbency flexible and comfortable. soft handle good drape strong flexible machine washable.
polyamide (nylon) synthetic fibre
low warmth very slow absorbency fast drying comfortable static soft but firm very strong and abrasion resistant stretchy, crease resistant machine washable.
elastane (lycra)
low warmth absorbent dyes well adds stretch comfort soft and firm good strength very high elasticity crease resistant machine washable
fluroro fibres
low warmth non absorbent can't dye breathable and flexible soft durable fair elasticity degrades slowly, use a coating
pvc (polyvinylchloride)
good insulation low absorbency waterproof breathable and flexible strong and firm very durable machine washable iron with care do not tumble dry
acrylic
warm to wear fast drying comfortable to wear very soft (wool like) and good drape good strength and stretch good elasticity crease resistant machine washable may shrink
fibers : textiles materials are made up in 3 stages?
spinning ( fibers are sun into yarns )
weaving or knitting (yarns become fabrics)
finishing (fabrics are finished to make them more useful)
what is a fibre?
a fibre is a fine and flexible hair like structure, which is a textiles raw material , it has a high ration of length and thickness.
fibre information
all fibres can be classified as natural or manufactured . fibres can be short or very long, depending on where they came from and how they were manufactured.
what are staple fibres?
are short in length, natural shape can range from a few mm to around 1 m
what are filament fibres?
they are long and continuous, synthetic fibres.
they run the whole length of the yarn . some synthetic continuous filaments are cut into staple lengths.
silk is the only natural filament fibre. it can be as long as one km when it is taken from the silk cocoon.
fibre properties?
aesthetic
functional
comfort.
fabric properties ?
withstand wear and tear
resistant to abrasion
will rubbing cause the surface to peel(go bobbly)
what does directional pile mean?
the raised surface of a pile fabric or brushed fabric , does it look different when looked at from different directions (velvet)
what does nap mean?
the raised surface of a pile or brushed fabric
what are micro fibers?
micro fibre technology combines a high number of very fine fibres into one yarn of decitex or less. this means that 10km of the filament weigh one gram or less. a micro fibre is around 60 to 100 times finer than a human hair.
micro fibres can be…
manufactured from polyester , poly amide or acrylic.
blended with another synthetic fibre or with natural fibres
used in fabrics that has an enormous variety of appearances and end uses.
used in smart and technical fabrics for active wear, all weather wear and for a range of industrial users.
modern micro fibes?
elastane (lycra) is always used in a blend with other fibers. its used to make sportswear and body hugging clothes and medical bandage.
tencel, is a ‘natural’ mircro fiber made from cellulose derived from wood pulp, for shirts and jeans,
cotton fabrics
calico corduray denim gingham drill terry toweling
cotton finishes
mercerising (higher strength and lustre)
synthetic resin treatment (non-iron and crease resistant)
stain resist finishes using teflon or silicone
flame retardant finish using proban.
cotton information
cotton is harvested by hand or by picking machines
cotton plants require a tropical climate and wet soil for growth
the fibres are separated from the seeds by a process called ginning
typically blended with polyester, polyamide, viscose, modal,elastane
end uses for cotton
household linen curtains towels shirts underwear trousers jeans work wear sewing thread.
linen fabrics
interlining
holland(window blinds)
mattress ticking
pure linen for clothing
linen information
typically blended with viscose, polyester and silk.
end uses for linen
household linen table cloths curtains tea towels shirts skirts suits ropes sewing thread geotextiles
what is sisal?
natural sustainable fibre produced from the leaves of the agave cactus.
used for twines, ropes, hair brush bristles, baskets and natural floor coverings.
wool fabrics
'cool wool' felt herringbone flannel 'sport wool' tartan tweed
typical wool uses ?
blanket carpets upholstery suits jumpers overcoats sports ties scarves hats socks industrial felts geotextiles.
what is the woollen process?
almost any winnable fibre can be spun using the woollen system.
- wool fibres are fed into a willowing machine for opening and cleaning the loose fibres
- different fibre and colour types are mixed and oiled to improve spinning capability.
- fibre portions are fed into a carding machine for orientation and cleaning a fibre web is divided into ribbons and rubbed to form the slubbing yarn, which is then twisted and wound into yarns
what is the worsted process?
- fleece wool is sorted according to quality, separated into tufts , cleaned and dried.
- these are fed into a willowing machine for opening and cleaning the loose fibres.
- different fibre and colour types are mixed and oiled to improve spinning capability.
- fibre portions are fed into a carding machine for orientation and cleaning
- the short fibres are combined , drafted and nursed into a yarn.
