Fashion Diffusion Theories Flashcards
Fashion diffusion (adoption) theories
Styles become fashions when the fashion innovators or leaders who wear them first are copied by the majority, the fashion followers. Fashion adoption theories (referred to by Kaiser as fashion diffusion theories) try to identify the probable leaders and followers, and attempt to predict the path a fashion is likely to travel. The validity of each theory depends on the specific fashion, the period and the situation.
The trickle-down theory
This theory (also called the downward-flow theory) was valid for the adoption of fashions in earlier centuries. The fashion leaders were members of royalty. They wore lavish, noticeable styles so as to be recognised as royalty. Very soon the next class, the nobility, copied the styles worn by the royalty hoping, perhaps, to be mistaken for royalty. In a similar manner the middle class copied the fashions of the nobility. Only the lower classes followed no fashion as they did not have money to spend on such lavish clothing. The royalty naturally rejected a style as soon as it was worn by their social inferiors. Thus, fashion trickled down from the higher to the lower classes.
Trickle-across theory
The trickle-across theory (also called by Kaiser the horizontal-flow theory, or theory of collective selection) claims that fashions move horizontally between groups. Through mass communication and huge promotional campaigns by manufacturers and retailers new styles are introduced to fashion leaders of all social groups at more or less the same time. If a leader in a group accepts a fashion it will spread to the rest of that group. This also means that the housewife, office worker and student do not wait to see what they are wearing. There could be different fashions for different segments of the market that do not depend on social status at all. This also means that the same style may be available at the same time in very expensive shops, middle-of-the-road dress shops and in cheaper shops. The only differences will be in price and the quality of fabric, trimming and workmanship.
6.3.3 Bottom-up theory
The bottom-up theory (also called by Kaiser the upward-flow theory or the subculture leadership theory) states that certain styles begin among the youth or the lower classes. These groups have no status to lose by wearing certain styles, or they may choose to wear the styles for economic reasons. They then are copied by members of the upper social class who are rich enough not to worry about losing status by wearing a certain style. Finally, the middle class will adopt the fashion. The middle class is the most conservative class, mainly because they have the most to lose. Examples of fashions that have progressed in this way are denim jeans, miniskirts, sneakers (tekkies), T-shirts, and various ethnic styles such as multi-plaited hair.
