fabrics Flashcards
Whats a fabric
A fabric is an artifact created by the
weaving process
Fabric macro classes
- from yarns:
orthogonal fabrics,
knitted fabrics,
braids and pierced tissue. - from fibers:
non-woven (felt, needled). - Combinations: laminated fabrics
how is woven fabric obtained
obtained by weaving perpendicular two yarns: warp and weft
warp
a set of vertical yarns
weft
the only thread that crosses horizontally the warp
how is weaving of woven fabric done
done by using special machines called looms
knitted fabric
The knitted fabric is distinguished from other fabrics by the property of
having a remarkable elasticity, regardless of the yarn that composes it
knitted elasticity
The elasticity is due to the fact that the braided knitted threads act as springs, yielding to the tension and
returning to the initial position as soon as the tension ends
how is knitted fabric made
- Knitted fabric is made from a single interlacing curvilinear formed by a
single wire. - The thread is interlaced by binding by means of vertical and horizontal
crossings
knitted fabric machine
- Knitted fabrics are made on frame equipped with needles which weave the wires forming the knit.
- These particular loom can be linear or circular
hand knitting finish
All the hand knitting has completely fully fashioned, it means that the garment is made by increasing and decreasing the number of stitches in a row to create the desired shape
machine knitting division
Machine knitting is divided into
fully fashioned or cut and sew
knit
fully fashioned knitwear
- Fully fashioned knitwear is most used for expensive yarns such as cashmere or the most luxurious.
- An excellent knitwear garment will be completely made in fully fashioned knit, while a mass market product is modeled only on the sleeve point, to
eliminate waste
cut and sewn
- It is a fabric that has been knitted and then cut and sewn in a similar way to woven fabrics.
- It is mainly used for economic
yarns due to the waste suffered
basic weaves
PLAIN OR CANVAS,
TWILL,
SATIN
plain weave or canvas
- A weft thread passes over and
under each repeating warp thread. - It is the most used and simplest
method for creating fabrics, it is
also an excellent basis for
printing. - It is a simply weave that looks i
identical on both sides.
twill weave or diagonal
- It has a diagonal pattern with a straight and a reverse, it is obtained by passing the weft thread over and under two warp threads, with the scrap of one on the weft threads.
- This technique is used to create durable and structured fabrics
satin weave
- Create a luxurious and shiny hand, by sliding the weft threads over four or more warps and passing only under one.
- Satin is uniform and glossy on the warp face and matt on the weft face
plain weave fabrics
-Canvas: the easiest way to cross the warp and weft.
-Taffeta
-Muslin, lightweight, soft and transparent.
-Georgette: by silk, to haute couture.
-Chiffon: silk veil, light and transparent.
-Organza
-Baptiste: lightweight linen or cotton
canvas.
-Flannel :light and soft .
twill weave fabrics
-Twill: diagonal effect or herringbone.
-Moleskin : sturdy and smooth
-Hounds Tooth
-Prince of wales
-Denim
-Tartan
-Tweed
-Loden
satin weave fabrics
-Satin
-Damask
-Brocade
-Lampass
jacquard fabrics
- Jacquard loom is a special loom that has the ability to execute complex designs.
- This is a normal frame in which it is added a machine that enables the
automatic handling of individual warp threads
fabric weight
- The fabric weight is measured in meters.
- This means that the fabric weighs in one meter apart from its height (grams per square meter).
- Sometimes the weight of a fabric may be expressed in grams per linear meter.
textile weight levels
light - from 30 to 175 gr/ mtl
medium - from 300 gr/mtl and over
heavy - from 175 to 300 gr/ mtl
selvedge
- The edge of a fabric (left and right weft) is called selvedge.
- It is strengthened by doubling the thread,
peaker selvedge
if it has written words (e.g. manufacturer, brand) woven or printed
hand
The technical term for the feel of a fabric
what hand defines
it defines the characteristic of softness, warmth, stiffness,
compactness, fluffiness, smoothness, that the hand feels touching it.
hand words
soft, wrinkled, massive, sweet, smooth, heavy, doughy, grainy, soft, dry, hard, fine, silky, puffy, quick, rough, wavy, rustic, smooth, sustained.
care labels
powerpoint
cotton fabrics
- CANVAS * GAUZE
- ORGANZA * MUSLIN
- BATIST * SATIN
- OXFORD * TWILL
- GABARDINE * MOLESKIN
- DRILL * DENIM
- SEERSUCKER * PIQUET
- CHAMBRAY * VOILE
- POPLIN * SANGALLO
- PLUMETIS * VELVET
- CORDUROY * PANAMA
- MADRAS * VICHY
canvas
- Plain weave.
- Simple and extremely used fabric in clothing.
- Sturdy and resistant; the right side is the same as the reverse and the surface is a bit dull..
gauze
- Plain weave.
- Very light, transparent and solid fabric characterized by some warp
threads called “round” because they have a curvilinear direction and move now to the right, now to the left. - Used in clothing, especially in shirts.
organza
- a thin, transparent fabric in plain weave with a rigid hand.
- The key feature is the “cracking” hand.
- The appearance is opaque.
- It is suitable for multiple uses and sartorial interpretations, from shirts, dresses, wedding and ceremony dresses
plumetis
- Plain weave.
- Plumetis is a refined and light fabric of cotton, wool, silk or rayon.
- It is woven with polka dots or small
relief designs that create an embroidered effect.
voile
- Plain weave.
- Voile is a type of weaving that can be performed in more fibers like cotton, silk or wool and in chemical
variants such as viscose or polyester. - The yarn is very twisted which gives the voile a certain structure without
affecting the drapery. - Cotton is especially suitable for shirts and light summer dresses.
muslin
- Plain weave.
- Light and soft fabric, almost transparent, made of silk, cotton or wool.
- It is widely used in all clothing.
- Muslin and “egg skin” are synonyms used to indicate simply lighter variants of the same muslin.
batiste
- Plain weave.
- Very fine and almost transparent linen or cotton fabric, it is used for shirts and linen.
satin
- Satin weave.
- Fabric with a semi-glossy appearance on the right side and more opaque on the reverse.
- If you want to increase its glossy appearance, it can be calendared.
- Suitable for making dresses, trousers, jackets and dusters with both elegant and sporty cuts
oxford
- Nattè weave , with the doubling of the warp and weft threads of the same count or with threads of different counts.
- Its peculiarity is to have colored warp threads and white weft threads, which accentuates the basket weaving effect by forming a tiny grid
twill
- It is in fact the only fabric to feature a 45 ° diagonal striped weave, created by the intertwining of the warp threads with the wefts.
- The diagonal structure of the fabric gives the Twill a bright and iridescent appearance, softness and resistance
seersucker
- Plain weave.
- decorative appearance made up of thicker vertical stripes.
- The rippled appearance is given by the different tension given to the warp threads, this construction allows a better breathability making the fabric suitable for the packaging
of summer clothes
madras
Lightweight cotton fabric originating from the homonymous city in India produced in stripes or checks, it is mainly used in shirts and for summer dresses
vichy
Plain weave. Vichy is a fabric created from a regular set of two colors in warp and weft that create the characteristic check.
sangallo
- Originally from Sangallo, the capital
city of Switzerland. - Variety of lace fabric, worked with small drawstring openings that give it the appearance of an embroidery, which can be in cotton, linen, rayon.
- Used for women’s evening dresses, blouses, trimmings
piquet
- Loom fabric, in general, of cotton
characteristic for its surface with grooves and reliefs, obtaining effects
of rib, honeycomb, squares, dots,
ladder, bird’s eye.
panama
- 2x2 plain weave with a characteristic
basketball look. - Fabric usually made of cotton but also of wool or nylon usually used for men’s and women’s clothing and
furnishing fabrics. - Despite his sturdy appearance, he has a loose and sagging hand.
drill
- Twill weave 2x1. Fabric on twill weave with 3 heddles (2 up, 1 down) with diagonal upright to the left, very
strong and heavy, similar to denim,
usually in cotton.
Low count yarns are used, but of good quality
moleskin
- compact, very robust, made with very resistant yarns, brushed and hairy on the right side, and rough on the reverse.
- It has an appearance that recalls that of suede.
wool fabrics
CANVAS* CREPE
* COLD WOOL* TASMANIAN
* GABARDINE* WHIPCORD
* GRISAILLE* BOUCLE’
* TWEED* KNICKERBOCKER
* FLANELLA* CLOTH
* LODEN* CAMEL
* CASENTINO
wool canvas
- a uniform and soft surface, equal on the right side on the reverse and slightly elastic, which makes it adaptable to different types of models, wide or tight, draped or gathered.
-It can be made with wool yarns of various types and thicknesses. - The materials used in the weaving determine the appearance of the fabric.
- Worsted yarns give it a smooth, flowing look, while carded yarns make it soft and fluffy.
crepe
- Plain weave .
- Fabric of various weights with a characteristic grainy, wrinkled, wavy or otherwise wavy appearance.
- This puckering characteristic can be obtained through the weave effect, but more often through the effect of “frizzy” yarns, whose forced, very high twist (up to 4000 rpm), creates these puckers.
- The curl is also created during the
finishing operation due to the different shrinkage of the yarns. - It is generally a rather light and draping fabric.
tasmanian
- Very fine and crease-resistant wool
fabric, mainly used to make men’s
clothing. - Its iron gray color is characteristic.
wool gabardine
- It is a very resistant and durable fabric, characterized by a twill weave in which the warp prevails on the obverse, forming oblique, dense and regular ribs.
- In the worsted wool version it is a fabric with a dry feel, around 250-350 g / m2.
- The ribs in relief may also have a slight raising.
- The thinner the ribs, the higher the quality of a gabardine fabric.
whipcord
Worsted wool fabric used mainly for
uniforms. It is a variant of gabardine
in which the diagonals are intertwined.
grisaille
- Classic design with diagonal ladder effect, not very marked. Worsted fabric, made with batavia weave, weaving a dark thread and a light thread and weaving a light and a dark
weft. - It is mainly used on generally men’s
fabrics, very often made with black and white yarns, which overall give a gray effect
harris tweed
- Original Scottish wool tweed originally produced in the Ebradi islands (one of which Harris), of excellent quality, with a design characterized by white hairs on the surface, especially herringbone.
- Hand woven and yarn differs from
normal Tweed for its particularly rough hand
knickerbocker buttoned
- Fabric made with a dotted or striped carded wool yarn usually, medium weight, brightly colored, sporty, similar to tweed, with which it is sometimes confused.
- Made with patterned, combed or carded yarns characterized by knots (buttons)
flannel
- Basic classic fabric: combed or semi-
combed, in twill weave, of medium or light weight, fulled and brushed, it is
characterized by a uniform and hairy surface and a soft and warm hand. - There are many varieties of flannels: in wool, with a cotton warp and a wool weft, or all in cotton.
- It has insulating characteristics, that is, it develops heat if it is rubbed, and keeps it for a long time.
loden
- Wool fabric (but can be mixed with
cashmere, mohair, alpaca), generally carded, usually with plain weave. - After spinning and weaving the fabric thus obtained, still very raw, is subjected to fulling, compressed and
beaten by machinery until a compact and resistant cloth is obtained
camel
- Plain weave or twill weave.
- Fine fabric for coats, usually carded, fulled, and finished with short and soft pile.
- Given its high cost, it is often mixed with the wool of fine sheep or goats and / or to vary its characteristics.
casentino
- Carded wool fabric, originally from the Tuscan area of the same name; rustic but soft, with medium-height hair subjected to pressure or rubbing (ratinatura) so that the hair thickens in small lumps.
- The characteristic colors of this fabric are orange and green, but originally the real “Casentino” was red
bouclé
- The name of the fabric comes from the use of the homonymous irregular curled fantasy yarn that forms small rings, curled knots, used in woolen and knitwear, generally with carded yarn, for women with a rather large
structure, which gives rise to a very wavy surface and curled, with rings, etc
harringbone
- Basic design of carded or combed fabrics, manufactured on a twill weave by inverting the direction of the diagonals at intervals in order to imitate the remains of fish or the ears of wheat.
- The herringbone is used in woolen and drapery for overcoats, coats, jackets and trousers and skirts in fabric variants.
tartan
Characteristic checkered broken pattern by lines of various colors, and therefore fabric, generally made in twill weave, in which the decorative module, called “framework” is created by repeating the same sequence of colored stripes and lines in the sense of the warp and weft .
birdeye
Pattern mainly for drapery obtained with the “T-weave” weave, alternating two light threads with two dark ones in weft and warp; very small points are obtained, almost round, with a light point in the center on a dark background, vaguely similar to the eye of the partridge or diamond
silk fabrics
GAZARRE* CHIFFON
* GEORGETTE* CREPE DE CHINE
* ORGANZA* SHANGTUNG
* SATIN* TAFFETA
* TWILL* CREPE SATIN
* CADY* DUCHESSE
* DAMASCUS* BROCADE
* CLOQUE* FAILLE
gazarre
- Plain weave, the Gazarre is a rather rigid fabric similar to a double organza in pure silk, but less transparent.
- Its structure is very compact but at the same time very light, it lends itself preferably to important volumes that still want to maintain an appearance of lightness
crepe georgette
- From the name of the seamstress who launched it, the French Georgette de la Plante.
- Light and transparent crepe fabric, made on plain weave nad produced with warp yarn twisted in the opposite direction to the weft, so the fabric takes on a rough appearance and hands
organza
Fabric manufactured on an open cloth weave, made up of fine and very fine yarns with variable density from 24 to 36 threads per centimeter, very transparent (similar to the veil), and made rigid with a special dressing;
crepe satin
Medium weight crêpe fabric, smooth, shiny on the right and opaque on the reverse; sometimes printed
cady
Its name derives from the city of Cadiz in Spain.
Medium-light weight combed crepe fabric with barrè effects given by the weft yarn, with a characteristic rough
hand.
It is used for elegant women’s clothing.
duchesse
Satin weave.
Medium weight fabric very shiny on the obverse, with a smooth surface
and a rigid and sustained hand.
The duchesse in natural silk is used for elegant, formal dresses.
damascus
Textured fabric, originally made by hand, now made on compact jacquard looms, manufactured with yarns of the same color both in the warp and in the weft, but with different twists and finenesses, for which light and dark effects are obtained with shiny designs on the background opaque and vice versa, which is flatter and smoother than brocade.
brocade
- Brocade is a textured fabric made by adding additional wefts called “brocades” usually of different yarns that intervene only in certain areas of the fabric to emphasize designs or create details.
- Its name derives from the Latin broccus which means protruding teeth.
- The fabric is worked on jacquard looms.
cloque
Fabric with small symmetrical embossed ornamental motifs, which give it a humped corrugated appearance.
They are obtained above all by using crepe yarns, ie over-twists, which by nature tend to wrinkle the bottom.
