Exam Flashcards
SHEARS
Specifically designed for cutting fabric
They have larger and smaller handle loop for gripping and a bent handle to sit closely to the table when cutting fabric
Usually six or more inches long
PAPER SCISSORS
Craft scissors used to cut paper or cardboard
SEWING SCISSORS
Like shears, but with smaller cushioned handles
PINKING SHEARS
Have a jagged edged blade that makes a zigzag cut that prevents edges from fraying
SEAM RIPPER
A small curved blade that is designed especially to rip through stitches without cutting the surrounding fabric
They are used to fix mistakes and get rid of unwanted stitches when doing alterations on costumes
CUTTING TABLE
A large flat surface, usually cork based, used to draft patterns, lay out and cut fabrics, and provide a clean workspace to build costumes
Ideally they should be 4’ x 8’ or longer to accommodate fabric widths and lengths
The height varies depending on the height of the cutter
Cutting tables generally have a shelf for storage below for fabric bolts and other supplies
KRAFT WRAP
The brownish paper that is used to draft patterns
CUTTING MAT
Self-healing mats used with a roller or flat blade to cut textiles, paper, or cardboard
TAILORS CHALK
Can either be chalk or wax
Chalk is used for fine fabrics, silk, polyester, etc…
Wax is used on cottons and wools and many other fibres
Comes in many colours
White, blue, black, yellow, pink
TRACING WHEELS
Smooth
Used on sheer fabrics
Makes a fine line
Standard
Makes a small dotted line
Stiletto
Used for marking paper and thick cloth
DRESSMAKERS CARBON
Coloured waxed or chalked paper that is used with the tracing wheel to make patterns and mark garment lines
Comes in white, blue, yellow, and red
This fades when ironed
Care must be used when using this paper because the colour is intense and may bleed through fine fabrics
MEASURING TAPE
60” or 120”
150 cm or 300 cm
Coated fabric tape for body measurements
RULERS
12—48” straight edges
30—120 cm
HEM GAUGE
Metal plate for accurate hems
CURVES
French, hip, dressmakers
Various hard curves that are useful for armholes, hip curves, darts, etc…
L-SQUARE, T-SQUARE
90 degree angle used in drafting and truing fabric
TRIANGLE
90 and 45 degree angles for drafting patterns
STEAM IRONS
Domestic or industrial used to get wrinkles out and flatten seams
Can be used with or without steam and has settings for many fabric types
IRONING BOARD OR TABLE
Flat surface used to press garments and fabric
CLAPPER
A hard block of wood used to form flat seams and crisp creases
Press fabric with steam and apply firm pressure with the clapper on the hot area until it cools
TAILORS HAM
A hard rounded cloth shape used to press curves
STEAMER
Used to rid finished garments of wrinkles
Also used when setting wigs
SLEEVE BOARD
Narrow ironing board used to get into sleeves, trouser legs, and narrow tubes
SLEEVE ROLL
Like a tailors ham but cylindrical in shape
THIMBLE
Saves fingers from getting blood on the costumes
Makes hand sewing thicker fabrics easier
BEESWAX
Run the thread through the wax, sandwich it between muslin and then iron the thread
This smoothes the fibres and makes thread stronger and less likely to knot when hand sewing
JUDY/DUDEY
A Canadian thing
Not-so-tiny dress form in various standard sizes used for fitting and draping costumes
SHARPS
All-purpose needle for hand sewing
Sizes 1—10
BETWEENS
Short and fine for quilting or applying decorative trims
BASTING
Easy to hold and thread
Used for basting and decorative stitches
MILLINERS
Very long
Good for crafts and hat making
TAPESTRY
Heavy with blunt end used for darning and working with yarn
CURVED
Used for upholstery
GLOVERS
Triangular point used for leather, vinyl, or plastic
SELVEDGE
The finished border of a piece of fabric, woven more tightly than the piece it borders and parallel to the lengthwise grain
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
Evenly spaced parallel threads arranged lengthwise along the fabric
CROSSWISE GRAIN
The threads that are passed through the lengthwise grain from one selvedge to another
It is the width of the fabric
BIAS
The direction of the fabric
It is diagonal to the crosswise grain and the lengthwise grain
UNDERLYING FABRICS
Fabrics used to hold the shape of a garment and give it a professional finish
LINING
Soft fabric cut from the same pattern as the garment inside which it is sewn
It gives body to the garment, embellishes it, hides its seams, and makes it warmer
INTERLINING
Fabric used to make a garment warmer
UNDERLINING
Fabric used to hold the shape of the garment and make it more opaque
INTERFACING
Tear-resistant fabric used to hold the shape of the garment and give it body
GARMENT FABRIC
Principal material used for the garment
It covers the underlying fabrics
CATCH STITCH
Holds securely while it allows for give in the fabric
Used primarily for hemming garments
The size used varies but 1/4 inch spacing is a standard use in costume shops
Try to only catch a thread or two on the surface fabric to make the stitch blind from the right side of the garment
RUNNING STITCH
An even line of stitching that is highly versatile
Can be used for even and uneven basting, gathering, thread marking, or flat mounting
BACK STITCH
A secure permanent stitch
In the top side these stitches look like they’re machine stitched, but on the bottom they overlap