Essential 8 Exam Flashcards
What are the 3 layers of the skin.?
The epidermiss the dermis and the hypodermis
3 types of elongated cells create the cuticle
The epicuticle the exocuticle and the endocuticle
What keratin ‘chains are linked together and held in Centre of The cortex.by chemical bonds
Disulphide bonds,they canbe changed by perms and Brazilian blowdrys, hydrogen, and saline
Where is melanin produced?
Inside the matrix is the melanisation unit
What do tyrosine and tyrosinase produce?,
Eumelanin, granular pigment gives the hair depth
How many keratinocytes are there roughly?
30
What is tyrosine?
A amino acid
What is tyrosinase
enzyme
What creates pheomelanin and what does it do?
When cysteine is present it reacts with tyrosine and tyrosinase, and creates pheomelanin which gives warmth and lightness
Where is the melanocytes?
In the dermal papilla.
What are granular pigments made up of?
Blue red and yellow globular cells and dermis the hairs depth
What are diffuse pigments made from?( pheomelanin )
Pale yellow to bright red, these determine the warmth
Lighting types
Direct spotlights areyellow based, warm fluorescent blue based cools halogen lights dive a slight pink base
Where should you and analise the persons natural base
At the back of the head
What is porosity caused by?
Probity is caused by deformation of the cuticle scale in certain areas
What are the 4 causes of porosity
Salt/chlorinated water, electrical equipment, sun and wind, chemical products.
How to test for porosity?
Take a few strands of hair and slide fingers down the hair, down towards the roots, the rougher and more swollen the hair feels, the more porous itis
What is sensitivity?
It is internal damage to the hair, it is when the hair has been damaged to the keratin chains ‘
What are the causes to sensitivity?
Excessive chemical services or electrical damages, naturally weak hair, sun s
How do you fest for sensitivity
Take a single damp hair, holding it between two fingers with wrists together gently stretch
If the hair is sensitised what doula need to add?
Warmth
What is a 10 and undercoat?
Lightest blonde, very pale yellow
9?
Very light blonde, pale yellow
8?
Light blonde, yellow
What is 7?
Blonde, yellow orange
What is 6?
Dark blonde, orange
What is 5?
Light brown, orange red
What is 4?
Brown, red
What is 3?
Dark brown, dark red
What is 2?
Darkest brown very dark red
What is 1?
Black, very very dark red
What two colours make mahogany?
Mauve. 2 copper. 4
What is mocha made out of?
Everything but red
How many levels of lift can you get with dia richesse
One and a half
How long does home goon for?
5 mins
How many levels of lift with majirel
3 levels
How many levels of lift from majirel highlift
4 and 1/2
How many levels of lift in platinum
7
If going one to two levels darker than the natural in majirel
3/4 target shade and then 1/4 golden/basic
When going three or more levels darker
Half target shade half golden/basic
Any levels darker in inoa
Half target shade half basic
Up to 50% white hair apply what?
Apply target shade
Over 50% white hair
Half target shade plus golden/basic
Inoa up to 70%
Apply target shade
Inoa from 70% to 100%
Apply half target shade and half natural /basic
When you pre stain what do you do?
Apply layer of neat target shade then apply mixed target shade on top
Pre lifting, what do you do and why?
Pre lifting is when you need more than 2 levels of lift on white hair/ apply base 10 and 20 vol develop for 20 minuets
Lengths and ends majirel good conditioned hair
Emulsify last 3-5 minuets when length and ends are the same target shade as before, take through when the tone/reflect has faded, last 15-20 minuets,then take through immediately when target shade is being changed from previous application full 35 minuets
Length and ends on porous hair
Emulsify 1-2 minuets take through 3-5 minuets, take through immediately 18-20 minuets
If the hair is sensitised and has one level of fade what should you do?
Pre colour
Pre colouring with dia light should be used?
Darkening more than 3 levels
Gentle cleansing does what?
Removes incompatible tones/reflects
Deep cleansing
Only used after 2 gentle cleanses, achieve up to 2 levels lighter
