Definitions

Question 1

closed system

Answer 1

allows energy but not mass across its system boundary e.g. sediment cell

Question 2

open system

Answer 2

allow energy and mass to pass across the system boundary

Question 3

sediment cells

Answer 3

system in which sediment is sourced, transported and deposited within a part of a coast and offshore area. closed coastal system

Question 4

fetch

Answer 4

distance over which the wind has been blowing over the sea

Question 5

swash

Answer 5

water that moves up the beach once a wave breaks. weak destructive strong constructive

Question 6

backwash

Answer 6

water that moves back down beach to sea due to gravity. strong destructive etc.

Question 7

prevailing wind

Answer 7

is the main direction that the wind blows on a coastline that influences wave direction and longshore drift

Question 8

wave refraction

Answer 8

as a wave approaches the coast, it will meet shallower water in front of headlands with waves in deeper water travelling faster, causing the wave crest line to refract

Question 9

tidal range

Answer 9

difference in height between high and low tide

Question 10

intertidal zone

Answer 10

area above water at low tide and under water at high tide