D5: Port Flashcards
What is Port
Sweet, fortified wine from the Douro valley in Portugal
Origin of Port
Trade wars between England and France 17th century causing England to increase trade with Portugal
Name some of the first Port shippers
Kopke, Croft and Taylor’s
Most shippers became dominant producers
What is a Quinta
Estate
IVP
Instituto do Vinho do Porto 1933. In that time responsible for the administration and supervision of the port industrie
Casa do Douro
1932 a secundary authority to supervise supervise the growers within the port demarcation. The IVP and Casa do Douro controlled the purchase of the spirit aguardiente for fortifying wines
What are vineyard terraces called
Patamares
Since when where producers allowed to source their own aguardente
Since 1991 when Portugal joined the EU. Leading to higher quality spirits hence better quality of Port overall
IVDP
Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro 2003 created to supervise both Port and Douro producers.
Responsibilities:
Regulates the amount of Port that can be produced in any one year and holds the register of vineyards as well as companies involved in wine production and shipping
Controls the volume of Port that can be released onto the market in a year. A max of one third of a shipper’s total stock
Analyses and tastes Port wines to ensure they meet the specifications of the different legally defined Port styles and has a role in the promotion of unfortified and Port wines from the Douro Valley
Explain the location of the Douro
North east Portugal, alongside the Douro river
70 km from the western end of the vineyard area
32.000 ha are registered for DO Porto
Explain the climate of the Douro
Warm continental climate
40 degrees in summer, and possibly freezing temperatures in winter. Shelter from the Serra do Marao to the west making this area much warmer and drier than the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia on the coast
Sub-regions
From west to east: Baixo Corgo Cima Corgo Douro Superior Vineyard sites vary widely within regions, meaning differences in temperature and sunlight exposure even within single vineyards
Baixo Corgo
Coolest and wettest, 900 mm annual rainfall
Ruby/Twany Port styles
Cima Corgo
Warmer and drier, 700 mm annual rainfall
Suitable for aged Tawny’s and Vintage Ports
Douro Superior
Hottest and driest region, 450 mm annual rainfall
Drought can be an issue
Flatter land which allows mechanisation
Explain the soil structure of the Douro
Stony, shallow soils
Free-draining and poor in nutrients which limits vigor
Underlaying bedrock is made of schist, rocks that crumble into layers quite easily. Due to these layers roots are able to penetrate deep into the soil to find water
Irrigation in the Douro
Only permitted in exceptional circumstances, extreem water stress and drought
3 types of vineyards lay-outs
All vineyards are on steep slopes, often 30% gradients or steeper.
Socalcos
Patamares
Vinha ao Alta
Socalcos
Traditional, narrow terraces supported by walls of dry rocks, labor intensive to maintain these walls
Not suitable for mechanisation, labor intensive
Protected by UNESCO, can not be converted to other lay-outs
Patamares
Terraces supported by a steep earth ramp
Small tractors are able to run up and down the slopes
Cheaper to maintain then Socalcos but erasion and weed growth can be problematic
Planting density is relatively low 3000 to 3500 per ha
Name the two types of Patamares
Large Patamares, are wide Patamares that support two rows of wines on each terrace. Uneven ripeness can be an issue, with the exterior row vines gaining more sun exposure.
Narrow Patamares only support one row of vines. Uneven ripening is less of a problem. More modern these days
Vinha ao Alta
Vines are planted in vertical rows up the slopes
The least expensive and allows relatively high density plantings (5000 ha)
Above 40% incline mechanization cannot be used, in that case Patamares are more likely
Water runs of and erosion can be a problem
Use of this vineyard layout is currently relatively limited
Vine training
Vines are cordon trained and spur pruned or head trained and cane pruned and VSP trellised to promote even sun exposure and ripening and allow for mechanisation where possible
Prunning
Summer pruning, such as leaf removal may be used to ensure sun exposer throughout the growing season, especially for late ripening varieties
Use of Rootstocks
Rootstocks that are tolerant of drought, generally 110R and 1103P both of which are hybrids of V. rupestris and V. berlandieri are widely used
Max yield permitted for port wines
Max yield is 55hl/ha
Due to limited water acces and, in some years, hazards and diseases yields are more likely to be 30hl/ha
Hazards in the Douro
Spring frost in high altitude vineyards
Cool wet weather from the east during early summer disrupts flowering and fruitset
Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot can be an issue (especially in Baixo Corgo, wettest region). Which can be combatted by canopy management and spraying with fungicides
Harvesting
Mainly carried out by hand because most of the vineyards are not suitable for machine harvesting
Usually starts in the Douro Superior (warm) and ends in the Baixo Corgo (cooler).
The various micro climates, different grape varieties and the time consuming job of hand harvesting, means that harvest is spread out over several weeks
How many varieties are allowed in the production of Port
Over 100 varieties are permitted in Port production
The most important red varieties in Port production
Touriga Franca Tinta Roriz Tinta Barrroca Touriga Nacional Tinta Amarela Tinta Cao Sousao
Touringa Franca
Late ripening, suitable for growing in warmer sites (low altitude, south facing)
Tight bunches and thick skinned grapes, relatively resistant to fungal diseases
Contributes colour, tannin and acidity as well as juicy black and red fruits and floral aromas
By far the most grown variety
Tinta Roriz
Tempranillo in Spain and Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal
Early ripening, best grown in relatively cool sites and can suffer from water stress
Can give body and deep colour to the blend
Capable of producing high yield, but needs to be limited otherwise wines will lack concentration
Tinta Barroca
Early ripening variety, best planted in cool sites (Baixo Corgo and Cima Corgo) on high altitude north facing slopes
Flavors tend to be more earthy than floral
It can lack acidity and colour tends to fade more quickly
Capable of producing high yieldsq
Touriga Nacional
Mid ripening, thick skinned
Producing wines with deep colour and high tannins
Retains acidity well and displays concentrated flavors of black fruit and flowers
Long ageing potential and therefor often used in premium, long matured wines
Can suffer from excessive vegetive growth, which can be managed by summer pruning
Susceptible to coulure, which can lower yield and quality
Tinta Amarala
Trincadeira in other parts of Portugal
Prone to fungal diseases due to its tight bunches of grapes
Gives full body wines, concentrated black fruits with spicy notes
Approachable in yought but capable of ageing
Tinta Cao
Low yielding variety
Small thick skinned, resistant to fungal disease
Ripens late and very tolerant to heat
Concentrated wines, high acidity and capacity to age well
Sousao
Thick skinned variety
Becoming increasingly popular for its deep intensity of colour and ability to retain high levels of acidity
Key white varieties in Port production
Malvasia Fina and Moscatel Galego Branco
Malvasia Fina
Boal in Madeira
Produces neutral wines with medium acidity, full body and slightly honeyed character
Moscatel Galego Branco
Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains
An aromatic grape variety used for un aged styles
Key methods of extraction during fermentation
Foot trading in lagares Modern lagares Pumping over Stainless steel pistons Autovinifiers
Fermentation is stopped by the addition of grape spirit to create a sweet wine (80-120 g/l) residual sugar. Maceration of the skins last for a max of 2 days and therefor extraction techniques need to be very effective
Foot trading
Takes place in shallow (80cm) square tanks, traditionally made of granite
The extractions comes from foot treading, effective but also gentle enough not to crush the seeds (bitter tannins)
Still used by a number of small, premium and super-premium producers
Modern lagares
Also called robotic lagares, silicon feet press the grapes against the lager floor and punch down the cap
Advantage is that it reduce the need for a large hired workforce
However the initial investment is for the equipment is higher, modern lagers can produce wines of equal quality to those produced by foot treading
Pumping over
Same technique used for non-fortified wines
Although it can produce ports with deep colour and high levels of concentration through frequent pumping over, it is not as effective as foot treading or the use of modern lagares
Stainless steel pistons
Open stainless steel vats with pistons punching down the cap to a programmed schedule.
Can be used in conjunction with pumping over, which is usually needed to promote more even extraction
Believed to be almost as effective at extracting as lagares and seems to produce wines that are similar in quality
Autovinifiers
Sealed concrete stainless steel tanks proved a solution to cap management that does not require electricity
The rising pressure of the co2 produced from fermentation pushes the juice up through the pipes into a holding tank
When the pressure of the co2 reaches a certain level, a valve (klep) is automatically released and the wine in the holding tank sprays over the cap
Cheaper option, because it does nog require electricity
Very little extraction occurs before fermentation starts, because the process is reliant on co2 released from fermentation. Therefor more suitable to produce basic tawny, ruby and white Ports
Fermentation temperatures for Port wines
Red wines 28-32 degrees is warm enough to allow sufficient extraction but not so warm that the fermentation progresses too quickly and reduces the available extraction time before pressing and fortification
Fermentation temperatures for whites are around 20 degrees or below
Many producers use ambient yeasts for fermentation as these are sufficient to start the ferment (completing fermentation to dryness is not a concern for Port production)
To what level of alcohol is Port foritified
19-22%
Explain aguardente
Spirit derived from grapes with a min of 77% abv
The alcoholic strength of aguradente is relatively low compared to 95-96% aft spirits used in otters fortified wines. Whereas 95-96% spirit is neutral 77% abv spirits have more character, and is the reason Port displays more spirity aromas
Approx 1l of spirit for every 4l of fermenting must is used to produce a fortified wine of 20% abv. No surprise that the quality of the spirit has a significant influence on the style and quality of the wine
Explain the influence on style of aguardente
Approx 1l of spirit for every 4l of fermenting must is used to produce a fortified wine of 20% abv. No surprise that the quality of the spirit has a significant influence on the style and quality of the wine
Some producers will use a relatively neutral spirit to best show the character of the wine, others may use spirits that are more aromatic to add a certain character to the wine
The spirit chose will also effect the price of the final wine, therefor high quality spirits will be added to premium wines, whereas less expensive spirits will be added to inexpensive wines
Port fortification
Fermentation is stopped when the wine reaches around 5-7% abv, depending on the desired sugar level to remain. Generally 80-12 g/l, which can be a matter of house style
The wine is drained from the skins before the aguardente is added. Meaning this must be as efficient as possible, as the must will continue fermenting (until the aguardente is added) using up sugar that may be desired in the final wine
Modern fermentation vessels are generally designed to drain as quickly as possible, compared to traditional granite lagares which can take hours to drain
The mass of grapes skins left after drainage will be pressed and blended into the fortified free run wine. To provide colour and tannins (necessary for wines that undergo long term ageing)
Acidification
Grapes are picked when flavors and tannins are ripe, too much potential alcohol is not an issue, but acidity can be lowered. Therefor acidification is common
Malolactic fermentation
Ports do not go though malolactic fermentation, as lactic acid bacteria are unable to tolerate the high concentration of alcohol
Explain blending in Port wines
Port are generally blends of different vineyards, grapes, and depending on the style vintages
Many Ports are non-vintage products with consumers expecting consistency (house style) and hence blending is used to ensure this
Blending is also important for producing a wine of the right profile and quality for the style it is to become. Vintage Port will have deeper colour and greater concentration of flavor and higher tannins compared to a Reserve Ruby or LBV. All of these factors mean that the more stock a shipper holds, the easier it is to create a range of different styles
Maturation
The climate of Vila Nova de Gaia is better suited for Port ageing than the wineries in the vineyards, with strong Atlantic influences the temperatures are generally cooler and more constant. However, its becoming very touristy and more producers have built humidity controlled lodges in the vineyard area
Most styles are aged in oak. Vessels vary considerably in size depending of the amount of oxidation desired. The largest, called balseiros, are vats that can hold 100.000 liters, if gentle oxidation is desired wines are usually aged in 600 liters barrels called pipes.
The aromas of new oak are not wanted
Basic Ruby
Medium bodied, with medium tannins with red and black fruit flavours and suitable for drinking early, not for ageing.
Usually produced using protective winemaking techniques to retain primary fruit flavours. Including fermenting in stainless steel or concrete and ageing te wines in bulk for a max of 3 years
Generally a blend of more than one year and is expected to have the same consistent taste year on year.
Generally acceptable to good quality and inexpensive to mid-priced. Due to limited ageing and cheap spirit the wines often have simple fruity flavours and can have slightly harsh alcohol
Basic Tawny
May show some lightness and browning of colour in common with other Tawny Ports, but this does not tend to come from long periods of oxidative ageing.
Often aged no longer than Ruby Ports. Rather made by light extraction during fermentation to give them a paler colour
Reserve Tawny
Higher in quality than basic Tawny’s and must be aged in wood for a min of 7 years
Reserve Ruby
They tend to be higher in quality and more concentrated than basic Ruby’s
There is no min of ageing period. However, they must be tasted and approved by the IVDP’s tasting panel.
Tawny with an indication of age
Aged for a long time in barrels, typically pipes holding 620-640 liters. Permitting a controlled exposure to oxygen and over time tannins soften, alcohol becomes more integrated and primary flavours develop into tertiary flavours (dried fruit) and caramel and nuts from oxidation
Due to the long ageing, clarification and stabilization occurs naturally and wines tend not to need filtration before bottling
10,20,30 or 40 years can be stated on the lable, blends of more than one vintage made up of wines that are younger and older than the age specified. The wines will be tasted by a panel within the IVDP and must have the character of a wine of that age
Within their long ageing, barrels need racking and topping up (due to evaporation) making the production relatively expensive
Old aged Tawny
Started with the launch of Taylor’s Scion, a Tawny Port of more than 150 years old. Some other shippers have launched there own versions
Given their rarity and long maturation this wines sell at super premium prices
Colheita
Tawny Ports made from grapes from one vintage are called Colheita Ports
Must be aged in small barrels for a min of 7 years. The label must state the vintage and the year the wine was bottled
Vintage Port
Wines from a declared vintage. Producers must register their intention to release a Vintage Port in the second year after harvest and the wine is approved by an IVDP tasting panel
As well as a very good vintage, the grapes will come from high quality plots, usually own vineyards and old vines (Quinta do Noval Nacional). Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional are usually key components in the blend giving colour, tannin and flavour concentration suitable for long term ageing. These wines will be tasted over the period of the next two years to determine if a vintage can be declared and which lots may be suitable for Vintage Port. Wines that do not become Vintage Port after this period may become Single Quinta Ports, LBV or Crusted Port
Vintage Ports undergo a max of 3 years in large old wooden vessels before extensive bottle ageing. The majority is bottled during the second spring after harvest (18-20 months). The small amount of oxygen exposure during this times ensures stability of colour over its long ageing.
Wines are bottled without fining or filtration, results in heavy deposit of segment on opening and pouring
Young Vintage Ports are deep in colour and full bodied with high levels of tannins and pronounced intensity of black fruit. As they age the develop flavours of dried fruit and tannins and alcohol integrate. Very good to outstanding in quality, and sell for premium to super premium prices
Single Quinta
In years when producers do not make Vintage Port, they may produce a Single Quinta Port. A wine from one year made from grapes only from one estate that is stated on the label (Taylors, Grahams)
Crusted
A non vintage Port that is aged in wood for up to two years before being bottled. Without fining or filtration, hence a deposit or ‘crust’ from in the bottle
Botteling date must appear on the label, similar in style to Vintage Port and have considerable ageing potential.
Usually good to very good in quality and mid to premium priced
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)
LBV Ports are wines from a single year and must be bottled between 4 and 6 years after harvest. The fruit used for LBVs does not tend to be of the same quality as that for Vintage Ports. They are bottled ready to drink
Before botteling the wine is usually stored in large, old wooden vessels or stainless steel vats to avoid oxidation. Many LBV are filtered before bottling
Good to very good in quality, and usually mid priced. Tend to have a little more intensity, body and tannin than Ruby and Ruby reserve
Some LBVs are not filtered before bottling and tend to say unfiltered on the bottle
Rose Port
Also called Pink Port, invented by Croft in the late 2000s
Made from black varieties, with grapes that tend to come from cooler areas, high altitude or form Baixo Corgo.
The must is left to macerate for only a few hours before draining and clarification. Fermentation takes palace at around 15-16 degrees to retain red berry fruit aromas
The aguardente used must be as neutral as possible
Wines are bottle soon after the fortification and release from the winery within a year. They tend to be inexpensive to mid-priced wines. Colour can range from pale salmon to almost ruby depending on the producer
White Port unoxidized style
Muscatel tends to be one of the key varieties in the blend, lending aromatic fruity and floral notes
At the winery grapes are crushed, so2 is added and maceration last for a couple of hours at chilled temperatures to limit oxidation. Fermentation temperature is similar to those of used for unfortified whites at 18 degrees to enhance and retain fruity aromas
Stored in stainless steel or very large old wooden barrels for a short period. These Ports are often lemon in colour, medium bodied with flavours of stone fruits and floral notes
White Port oxidized style
Typically Malvasia, with its subtle flavours in yought becoming honeyed and nutty with age
Wines spoed slightly longer on their skins to extract more phenolics that will support the wine during the ageing process. Aged for several years in small casks
Amber to even brown in colour and tend to show floors of caramel, citrus peel, dried fruits and nuts
White Reserve
Min of 7 years in oak
Name the 5 main groups of producers that make up for 80% of sales by volume
Porto Cruz Symington Family Estates Sogrape The Fladgate Partnership Sogevinus
Cooperatives produce around 20% of the wine in the region
Porto Cruz
Gran Cruz
Symingon Family Estates
Cockburn’s
Dow’s
Graham’s
Warre’s
Sogrape
Sandeman
Offley
Ferreira
And many non-Port brands
The Fladgate Partnership
Taylor’s
Fonseca
Croft
Krohn
Sogevinus
Kopke
Burmester
Barros
Calem
The Beneficio
The amount of Port that can be produced in a year is highly regulated in a system called the Beneficio. The aim of the Beneficio system is to keep grape and wine prices sable through its influence of the balance of supply and demand
Each vineyard parcel is classified in terms of its capacity to produce quality grapes for Port, considering location, altitude, aspect, soil and grape varieties planted. The vineyard parcel receives a numerical value for each of one of these factors, and the final total is used to give the parcel al letter. This means that two vineyards located next to each other but planted with different grapes would likely gain different scores and possibly different letters. The parcels are given the letters A to I and the letter awarded determines the amount of Port wine. that can be made from on parcel; with A denoting the vineyards of the highest quality and therefore can produce the most Port wine. Vineyards with a rating below F cannot make port wine, but can be used for unfortified wines or distilled into spirits
