D3 Study Flashcards
Mantinia
85% Moschofilero, SW of Nemea on 600 m plateau - warm Mediterranean stainless steel, Seméli Estate
Nemea
100% Agiorgitiko, near Corinth Canal, Gaia Wines
Three zones: 230-400 m fertile, 450-650 m for best, 650m-1000m for rosé
Ancient Nemea+Koutsi subzones
Naoussa
100% Xinomavro, SE slopes of Mt. Vermio 150-400m - shelter from NW wind, varied aspects - Kir Yianni Ramnitsa
Good-outstanding, mid-priced
Amynteo
100% Xinomavro, NW side of Mt. Vermio, 570-750 m
Rosé permitted, lakes moderate temp (Vegoritida) and sandy soils are phylloxera-free
Alpha Estate Barba Yannis
650-700mm rain
Santorini
Dry 75% Assyrtiko, sweet 51% Assyrtiko: basket (kouloura) training, cut every 20 years - 2,500 vines/ha, yields 60 hl/ha - Vinsanto late harvest, 2 weeks sun-dried, 2 years in oak
Beaujolais Nouveau
Primeur = synonym, third Thursday in November (other wines December 15th), carbonic or semi, bottled 3-5 days after - MLF optional
1/4 of all Beaujolais
Beaujolais AOC
Regional (S+NE), clay+limestone 60 hl/ha, sale March after harvest
Beaujolais Villages AOC
Riper, yield 58 hl/ha
Individual village name allowed if fruit all from there
Good-very good, inexpensive to mid-priced
Beaujolais Cru
Range from 250-1,300 ha, yield 48 hl/ha - popular among somms/wine lovers in US
Brouilly AOC
Southern, warmer, largest: lighter and perfumed
Chiroubles AOC
Highest cru, lighter and fragrant, marked acidity
Fleurie AOC
Sandy soils (lighter) in south, clay in north (fuller bodied) next to Moulin-à-Vent
Moulin-à-Vent AOC
Powerful and long-lived, like Cote d’Or
Morgon AOC
Includes south facing Cote de Py, pronounced black cherry, age for a decade (Jean Foillard)
Beaujolais Business
40% export, holdings 10 ha, co-ops 25%, domestic sales DTC and specialist wine (then supermarket) - Japan, US and UK make up 60% of sales (Japan for Nouveau, US+UK for crus) - alternative to Burgundy
Rhone Business
1/3 export, 1/3 supermarket, 29% specialist wine/hospitality - US, UK and Belgium - trend of growers becoming domaines, Cave de Tain has 40% of Crozes-Hermitage and 15% of Hermitage - 70% AOC wine overall, of which 1/2 Côtes du Rhone
Burgundy Business
Route to market: DTC rising, direct sales from producer to end retailer rising - 50% export (25% EU, 25% UK/US/Japan), domaine and appellation name - 200% price increase this century
USA Labelling Laws
Variety = 75% Appellation = 75% from county, state Vintage = 85% from vintage AVA = 85% from AVA Vintage AVA = 95%
California Business
5,900 grape growers, 4,800 wineries
26 million hl (3.3 million hl exported)
Bought grapes could be blended or make separate wine - large range helps for cellar door/wine club
Gallo owns Barefoot, other end is Screaming Eagle/Harlan
Wine Institute of California: 1/4 of producers
California grape growers
Independent growers i.e. Beckstoffer
Prices vary w/supply and demand -> head-grafting for rapid response
Napa fruit can be 10x Lodi: quality growers
North Coast AVA
Largest in California, 100 miles on coast and 50 miles inland - divided by Mayacamas Mountains
Mendocino County
7,000 ha - cooler AVAs (Anderson Valley) near Pacific for Pinot/Chardonnay/Riesling, inland (Redwood Valley) for Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Potter Valley for Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling - lower priced, multi-regional blends
Parducci in Mendocino AVA
Anderson Valley AVA
NW to SE, close to Pacific: fog from Navarro River, warmer inland - 900-2,000 mm rain
1,000 ha: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for sparkling/still
Duckhorn’s Goldeneye, Williams Seylem
good to outstanding, premium-priced
Also Alsace whites
85 wineries: cellar door for tourism, many wineries buy fruit and label it from here b/c of reputation
Clear Lake AVA
Rain shadow of Mayacamas Mountains: warm, slopes at 400-500m and afternoon breezes
Red Hills AVA Beckstoffer fruit
Mostly black grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon+Sauvignon Blanc
Alexander Valley AVA
NE Sonoma County, warm w/cool Pacific air from Petaluma Gap and russian River Valley
Valley floor and west/southwest Mayacamas slopes, 100-750m
Long sunshine hours: high color and tannin w/acidity
800 mm rain, free-draining sand and gravel higher up
Full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, good to outstanding + mid-priced to premium
Kendall-Jackson Stonestreet Estate Chardonnay (450m)
Knights Valley AVA
Furthest island, surrounded by hills and sheltered from pacific - cooling at 450 m
Free-draining volcanic soils: Cabernet Sauvignon w/Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Peter Michael
Dry Creek Valley AVA
Narrow valley, planted on floor and slopes
Dry Creek = tributary of Russian River, valley funnels cool air and fog from San Pablo Bay (tidal estuary)
Gravel sandy loam on floor, gravel red clay loam on slopes (Dry Creek Conglomerate)
Old-vine Zinfandel, Teldeschi clone (Italian immigrants) riper on west-facing/north sites
Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, Sauvignon
Dry Creek Vineyard
Rockpile AVA
Overlaps Dry Creek AVA, steep slopes above 800 ft, up to 650 m
Snaking Lake Sonoma creates inversion layer, shallow soils + wind for ripe fruit
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Malbec, Douro
No wineries in AVA (source of fruit)
Russian River Valley AVA
Part of Northern Sonoma and Sonoma County AVAs
South and west coolest = Petaluma Gap (fog stays the night, slower sugar accumulation+acidity retention)
Yellow sandstone, rocky sandy loam: free-draining, low nutrients (Goldridge soil)
Over 7,000 ha (extended twice), medium(+) acidity
La Crema, Martinelli’s Jackass Hill Zinfandel
Green Valley of Russian River Valley AVA
Next to Petaluma Gap, longest fog exposure
Higher acidity, fresher fruit
Marimar Estate legume cover (water), 100% solar powered
Chalk Hill AVA
White volcanic ash, NE corner - plantings up to 500 m
Warmer climate, Chardonnay+Cabernet Sauvignon
Chalk Hill Vineyards, oak fermented vinho ao alto
Mt. Eden clone Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast AVA
Mendocino to San Pablo Bay, includes Petaluma Gap
West vineyards near coast are very cold, fruit set disrupted
Light-bodied, high acid wines
Occidental Vineyards
Fort Ross Seaview AVA
NW of Sonoma Coast AVA, vineyards more than 280 m (above fog layer), warmer but moderated y winds
Riper fruit w/higher acidity
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir + Syrah
Flowers
Petaluma Gap AVA
Gap in Northern Coast Range - persistent 8 mph wind, 75% Pinot Noir + Chardonnay, Syrah
Lower alcohol and fresher fruit
Sonoma Valley AVA
Between Sonoma and Mayacamas mountains - south is coolest (winds from San Pablo Bay)
Hanzell first to use all oak w/Chardonnay
Pagani Ranch Zinfandel (Ridge)
Sonoma Mountain AVA
Western side, east-facing slopes up to 730 m
Ripe and tannic, but cool mountain air helps
Free-draining volcanic soils
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel w/Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc on cooler west side (coastal)
Benziger is biodynamic
Bennett Valley AVA
Warm sheltered, surrounding hills but night air through Crane Canyon Gap
Matanzas Creek, Syrah, Merlot, Rhone varieties
Carneros AVA
San Pablo Bay up to Napa county: warm and sunny days, cold winds evening and morning - low elevation up to 200 m
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, can use county and ‘Los’
Recognized in 1980s (Tchelitscheff)
Clay-loam soils, less fertile than Napa
Martini and Swan clones of Pinot Noir
Napa Valley AVA
4% of California production, 27% of value - 16 nested AVAs must also use Napa Valley - 18,200 ha
30x5 miles - Napa River, Mayacamas Mountains and Vaca Mountains - open to San Pablo Bay from south, warm air rising pulls in cool air
Silt and clay in middle and east (fertile and water)
Alluvial fans are deep, rocky, moderately fertile (in-between style)
90% protected development, 30 degree slope cannot be converted
Cordon/replacement spur VSP, drip irrigation
Napa Green = 60%
Coombsville and Oak Knoll AVA
Fog burns off in late morning: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot+Chardonnay - lighter body and fresher fruit
Coombsville 2012, Oak Knoll Trefethen 100% solar powered, dry and late harvest Riesling, Petit Verdot
Rutherford AVA
Furthest north, least bay influence: Cabernet, some Zinfandel - med(+)/full body, high ripe tannins, rounder and fruitier
Rutherford Bench 3-mile stretch alluvial fan
Grgich Hills organic, silt loams (neutral oak Fumé Blanc), Frog’s Leap
Oakville AVA
Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Bench
Promontory, Harlan higher, Bale loam at lower altitude
Yountville AVA
Most influence of fog
Dominus Napanook Bordeaux blend
Stags Leap District AVA
Deep volcanic loam, Fay Vineyard drainage from large boulders - silky and more delicate
St Helena AVA
North, warmest - Bale loam, St. Helena Bench
horseshoe shape funnels afternoon breezes
Trinchero Family Estates
Calistoga AVA
Some breezes from Chalk Hill gap
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah
Wind machines, Chateau Montelena
Mountain AVAs of Napa Valley
Above fog layer (up to 800 m), lower diurnal range: higher tannins and acidity
Mount Veeder AVA is coolest (Cab can struggle) w/ Hess Collection, Atlas Peak in SE has Antica Sangiovese, Howell Mountain in NE is warmest, Diamond Mountain and Spring Mountain (Pride Mountain Vineyards) cooler
White wines have less pronounced fruit
Blending Napa Valley
Small percent of other variety in varietal wines, also different vineyards (even across AVAs) for soil types, cooler - single-vineyard To Kalon and Martha’s Vineyard
Central Coast AVA
From San Francisco to Santa Barbara - gaps in coastal hills - Southern Coast Ranges i.e. Santa Cruz, Gabilan and Santa Lucia
Livermore Valley AVA
East side of San Francisco Bay, Alameda County: cool air from san Francisco Bay, stony free-draining soils Wente Chardonnay (Meursault), Concannon Cabernet Sauvignon (7, 8, 11) Margaux -80% relate back to this, Sauvignon Blanc from Chateau d'Yquem
Santa Cruz Mountains AVA
Altitudes up to 800 m, moderating daytime temps, warm air pushed up avoiding frosts
East side warmer for Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, but Pinot Noir and Chardonnay common
Ridge Vineyards 100% new oak, organic
Monterey AVA
Salinas River Valley: cool air funneled from Monterey Bay - Pinot Noir and Riesling in north, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah in south
Chardonnay has more than 50%, all sites
Free-draining sandy loam/gravel = irrigation essential
Flat valley floor = inexpensive, mechanization
Longest growing season, wind damage
Santa Lucia Highlands
Alluvial terraces facing southeast over Salinas Valley, up to 350m: winds and fog, morning sunshine - stomata can close - Chardonnay + Pinot Noir, Syrah where sheltered
Hahn Pinot Noir/Chardonnay
Arroyo Seco AVA
Narrow gorge at foot of Santa Lucia mountains, opens onto valley floor: canyon is warmer, Cab Sauvignon/Syrah, valley floor has Chardonnay and Riesling J Lohr
Chalone AVA
Gabilan Mountain Range, 550 m above fog line, monopole - Chardonnay and Pinot, Chenin Blanc
Carmel Valley AVA
Cachagua Valley further inland, 670 m and above fog - sheltered from coast, warmest in county
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot w/Pinot Noir/Chardonnay near coast
Paso Robles AVA
11 sub-AVAs (Willow Creek), Adelaida District AVA
Rolling hills and mountaings up to 670 m - eastern side has warmer climate, full bodied
Templeton Gap on west has Pacific air
Tablas Creek (Perrin) Rhone varieties, Adelaida (calcareous) - dry farming
40% Cabernet
Edna Valley AVA
Coolest in California, 5 miles from Pacific (Morro Bay), C+PN as well as Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño
Alban Reva
Arroyo Grande Valley AVA
South of Edna valley, funnels Pacific fog (high acidity)
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Syrah
Santa Barbara County
Transerve Ranges funnel air, reduce frost - medium(+)/high acidity, medium to medium(+) body
Wineries cannot set up cellar doors on winery, must be in city
Marine bedrock, diatomaceous in west, Purisima Hills
Santa Maria Valley AVA
West to east, funnels Pacific air: 100-250 m on sandy clay shale loam - P+CN, Syrah, Viognier
Santa Ynez Valley AVA
Four sub-AVAs Sta Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
Sta. Rita Hills AVA
calcareous soils, Purisima Hills+Santa Rosa Hills, western edge: P+CN, Sauvignon Blanc, V+S - known for Pinot Noir, premium + super premium, medium(+) tannins, tea leaf
Ballard Canyon AVA
Small plantings, north to south canyon w/some overnight fog: Syrah and Grenache
Los Olivos AVA
Alluvial terraces over Santa Ynez River, warm sun and low diurnal range: Bordeaux, Rhone, Italian
Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA
Small, new - warm temps, north/south - high altitude and afternoon winds
Cabernet Sauvignon+Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, Syrah
San Joaquin Valley
61,000 ha, 35-40 temps, French Colombard, Chardonnay, Muscat, Zinfandel, Merlot: large-scale production, Gallo and Bronco - ‘California’ appellation, not AVA
Lodi AVA
Hot Mediterranean, cooling winds from San Francisco Bay and Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta - flat land means breezes travel far
Irrigation common from Mokelumne River, cordon VSP as cane is more labor, old bush vine Zinfandel - Rhone, Bordeaux, Spain, Portugal, Italy
David Michael Inkblot
Mokelumne River AVA
Most of Lodi’s vineyards, 2006: Lodi also stated (1/5 of Lodi is sustainable)
Clarksburg AVA
SW of Sacramento, hot days, Chenin Blanc and Petit Sirah, California blends
Sierra Foothills AVA
Hot days, cool mountain nights - 1000 m in El Dorado AVA, sandy clay loam for dry farming, old vine Zinfandel + Rhone
South Coast AVA
South of LA to Mexico - breezes, Pierce’s disease
Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc
Replanting to focus on quality
Oregon Business
52% of wines from estate-grown, typically small family wineries of less than 5,000 cases
1/4 of wine is DTC (cellar door, wine clubs)
60% consumed in other states, 2.5% exported (Canada, UK, Japan)
Washington Business
Growth to more than 1,000 wineries
more than 23,000 ha (doubled since 2000)
House Bill 100 1969 forced competition
Chateau Ste. Michelle 1976 - more than half of state production
Mostly in-state sales, cellar door often w/facilities in Seattle
New York Business
Farm Winery Act 1976: wineries can sell to public (limit 50,000 gallons)
Now 400 wineries, 1.1 million hl
Sales cellar door, in-state: on-trade in NYC has not embraced wines
Second generation, training abroad help industry
Williamette Valley
10,000 ha - 600 vineyards
60-80% Pinot Noir
Coast Range mountains on west
Long sunshine hours, high diurnal range
Ponds built for irrigation
Valley floor loam Pinot Gris (Scott Henry Pinot Noir)
Marine sediment (sandstone), basalt and loess higher w/VSP
Dundee Hills AVA
First plantings, volcanic Jory N/S hills w/E-W ridges
60-325 m, warmer due to Coast Range and Chehalem Mountain shelter
Iron-rich clay holds water
Eyrie Vineyards
Chehalem Mountains AVA
20x5 miles, SE to NW ridge, up to 500 m
Most plantings of any sub AVA
Laurelwood wind-blown silt, draining but fertile
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Smallest, 200 m protected ridge
Sedimentary, deep but low nutrient (holds water) - Willakenzie
Van Duzer Corridor
SW of Willamette: break in Coast Range, can disrupt flower/fruit set, close stomata
Marine sediment, loam, silt (well-draining, shallow) - frost problems
Eola-Amity Hills AVA
Rocky volcanic basalt, sedimentary soil
Yamhill-Carlton District
South bowl, horseshoe shaped sedimentary hills
1000 ha, Coast range foothills
Lower acidity, south aspect and shelter
McMinnville AVA
Noth areas in rain shadow, south have wind
Umpqua Valley AVA
Three ranges: Coast, Cascade, Klamath Umpqua River, 50-400m, various soils Northern area cooled by wind from gorge North Pinot/Gewurz/Riesling South Syrah, Merlot
Southern Oregon
3,200 ha
Rivers and mountains cooling
Irrigation needed (ranchers can use river waters)
Dry farmed Rhone varieties
40% Pinot Noir - then Gris, Syrah, Tempranillo
Rogue Valley AVA
Warmest and driest around Applegate Valley AVA
almost to 950 m, cooling
Rogue River Valley winds
Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah
Walla Walla valley
1/3 in Oregon, arid continental
40% Cabernet
Milton-Freewater Rocks District: basalt stones, silt loam
Washington environment
Rain shadow of Cascades, 150-250mm Hot continental, longer days Irrigational essential Basalt bedrock, sandy loess and alluvial topsoil Anticlines: exposed bedrock ridges Sandy soil is low phylloxera, slopes for less frost Volcanic influence Mt. St. Helens The Burn (warmest) is new AVA Snipes Mountain AVA
Yakima Valley AVA
40% of production, 7,600 ha
Chardonnay, then Cab Sauvignon
Frost risk on valley floor
Rattlesnake Hills AVA south slopes (260 m) high altitude Riesling, Merlot
Red Mountain AVA
SW slope, poor nutrients, warmest (Yakima valley sub-zone)
Full bodied Cab Sauvignon
Horse Heaven Hills AVA
6500 ha: 25% of production 2/3 black grapes Chardonnay+Riesling Slopes+Columbia River winds Quilceda Creek Vintners
Wahluke Slope AVA
Center of Columbia Valley AVA
South slope, 3,600 ha warm and dry
Sandy, free-draining soil: irrigation
Red wines
Walla Walla Valley AVA
Fastest growing, 1/2 in Oregon 705 ha in Washington Blue Mountain foothills in NE, up to 600 m Cool air trapped: frost risk Cab Franc, Malbec, Semillon Vinea sustainable alliance
Finger Lakes AVA
Cool continental, 3,800 ha
11 lakes, Seneca Lake 200 m deep
Slopes drain cold air, warms and rises over lake drawing cold air away from land
Snow insulates vines
Autumn warming=long season, budburst delayed in spring
Fertile soil, lots of rainfall
(low density large vine i.e. Scott Henry split canopy)
Hilling up in winter
New York Hybrids
Traminette (higher acidity, lower alcohol), Vignoles (noble rot, high acid, sweet), Vidal (ice wine)
Long Island AVA
1,000 ha on North Fork and Hamptons
Maritime, long season
Merlot+Bordeaux, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
Humidity (coastal wind helps)
North Fork (60%) warmer protected, sandy soils
Hamptons silt loam free-draining, low-fertility VSP
Hudson River Region AVA
First commercial winery, Brotherhood Winery
64 ha, glacial shale/slate, schist, limestone: frost and freeze
Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Cabernet Franc
Finger Lakes Wineries
Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca AVA, Cayuga AVA
Hermann J Wiemer Seneca Lake, hand harvest/sort, cover crops, working towards Demeter
Konstantin Frank Grüner Veltliner, unoaked Chardonnay
Forge Cellars from Gigondas
Muscadet (Pays Nantais) Winemaking
Chaptalization up to 12%, fermentation in underground glass-lined concrete
MLF avoided to preserve acidity
Skin contact, amphora, eggs for experimentation (cost)
Sur lie: one racking to remove gross lees, then winter on lees (March 1st to November 30th)
Melon Vineyard
Cold resistant but vulnerable to spring frost (wind machines, heaters, straw bales)
Resistant to powdery mildew, subject to downy mildew and botrytis, has tight bunches
Muscadet Appellations
Muscadet AOC: 65 hl/ha (70 for 2020), 10% Chardonnay, no sur lie
Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC: 55 hl/ha
Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire, Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu
Cru Communaux: Clisson, Gorges, Pallet 45 hl/ha
Pallet 18 months, Clisson+Gorges 24 months sur lie
Muscadet Business
Drop since 1991 frost
15% export, negociants more than half of sales (Ackerman, Castel)
Melon has 60% of plantings
Domaine de l’Ecu soil focus: “granite”, “gneiss”
Loire Overview
Pays Nantais 22%, Anjou-Saumur 37%, Touraine 31%, Central Vineyards 10%
50% negociants (10 control 4/5 of segment), 40% estates, 10% co-ops
Organic production less than national average
Trend for negociants to make wines, family businesses buy grapes to hedge hail/frost
Anjou-Saumur plantings
40% Cabernet Franc, 25% Chenin Blanc - 5% Grolleau Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay
Touraine plantings
Cabernet Franc: 30%, Chenin Blanc 20%
Sauvignon Blanc 20%, Gamay 10%
Also Malbec and Chardonnay
Anjou-Touraine environment
Continental (Anjou-Saumur has more maritime), 700 mm
Anjou has schist and limestone (draining+retention)
Fercal+Riparia Gloire for chlorosis (lime content)
Chenin Blanc
Early budding, late ripening, vigorous, high yields, powdery mildew, botrytis, trunk diseases, uneven ripening (multiple passes, limits mechanization)
Cabernet Franc
Early budding, mid-ripening, prone to coloure, greenness, winter hardy - blended with Cot in Touraine
Other Loire Grapes
Grolleau Noir: Early budding, mid-ripening, botrytis: blended in rosés (Anjou/Loire)
Gamay Noir: Carbonic, Touraine/Central
Cabernet Sauvignon: Late-ripening, warmest sites of Anjou
Winemaking Loire
Chenin Blanc: cool/mid-temp, can last several months
MLF avoided, ferment and age in large oak or steel
Cabernet Franc: Crushed, fermented in concrete/wood (punch down/pump over)
Ambient yeast, used oak aging: promote fruit)
Rosés often made by direct press, or short maceration
Anjou AOC
60 hl/ha for red/white, 67 hl/ha for rosé
Anjou Blanc: min. 80% Chenin Blanc
Anjou Rouge: min. 75% Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon
Anjou Villages AOC
Still red wine only Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon
max. 55 hl/ha, September year after harvest (producers often release as Vin de France)
Coteaux de Layon AOC
Right bank slopes of Layon River, botrytized (or vine-dried) Chenin Blanc - cooked citrus, honey
35 hl/ha, 14%
CdL AOC+Village: 30 hl/ha, 15%
Bonnezeaux AOC: 25 hl/ha, 15%
CdL AOC Premier Cru Chaume: 25 hl/ha, 16.5%
Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru: 20 hl/ha, 18%
Savennières AOC
Fully dry, south slopes, rocky schist and low yield: 50 hl/ha - austere, bottle aging, some have oak
La roche aux Moines AOC
Coulée de Serrant AOC: monopole, biodynamic Nicolas Joly: 30 hl/ha, warm slopes
Rosé Loire AOCs
Rosé de Loire: max. 60 hl/ha, dry: Cabs, Gamay, Grolleau Noir
Rosé d’Anjou: max. 65 hl/ha, min. 7 g/l sugar: Grolleau, Cabs, Cot, Gamay
Pink-orange, med(+)acidity, best-selling
Cabernet d’Anjou: max. 60 hl/ha, Cabs - medium pink, medium-dry (min. 10 g/l sugar)
Saumur AOC
White 60 hl/ha, Chenin Blanc
Reds 57 hl/ha, mainly Cabernet Franc
Rosé 57 hl/ha, Cab Franc/Sauvignon
Coteaux de Saumur: sweet Chenin, 35 hl/ha
Saumur-Champigny
Red, min. 85% Cab. Franc, 57 hl/ha
Tuffeau (Turonian limestone), chalk, flint and clay - release December
Cave Robert et Marcel
Clos Rougeard
Touraine AOC
Sauvignon Blanc whites, 65 hl/ha red Cabernet Franc, Cot, Gamay
Touraine AOC Amboise (Chenin Blanc), 55 hl/ha - rouge now 100% Cot
Oisly and Chenonceaux 60 hl/ha, Sauvignon Blanc
Sand on flint in east
Vouvray AOC
Min. 95% Chenin Blan, 5% Orbois, 52 hl/ha
Flinty (perruche) clay and limestone (aubuis) over tuff (drainage)
More clay away from Loire
Dry every year, some demi-sec, sweet if conditions are right
Labeling confusing for sweetness
Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC
South of River (Loire to Cher River), 100% Chenin, 52 hl/ha
Many biodynamic estates, Jacky Blot
Bourgueil AOC
Cabernet Franc w/10% Cabernet Sauvignon, red and rosé: 55 hl/ha
Chinon AOC
Red, white and rosé
Cabernet Franc w/10% Cabernet Sauvignon: 55 hl/ha
Shorter or longer maceration
Structure on clay/limestone, lighter on sand/gravel
St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil AOC
Cabernet Franc, similar to Saumur-Champigny AOC
Central Vineyards
Cool continental, 750 mm
Fungal diseases, low light intensity=restrained flavor
70% Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc
Late budding, early ripening - autumn rain issue
Vigorous (poor soils), canopy management
Powdery mildew, botrytis, esca, eutypa
Row orientation+canopy management (green flavors in shade), harvest date key
Produces concentrated flavor at high yield
Sancerre winemaking
Fermentation temps higher than New World (low mid-range rather than cool)
MLF blocked, some producers allow
François Cotat old oak, Henri Bourgeois heavily oaked
Sancerre AOC
White Sauvignon Blanc 65 hl/ha, Rosé 63 hl/ha, red 59 hl/ha Pinot Noir
Used to be Pinot Noir, replanted
200-400 m slopes, river and forest protection
Sancerre soils
Caillots: shallow 25-40 mm pebble layer over limestone: aromatic, early drinking
Terre Blanches: limestone/marl like Chablis, long maturation (Côte des Monts Damnés, Cul de Beaujeu)
Silex: Flint accumulates heat, early ripening, Les Romains: stony/smoky
Pouilly-Fumé AOC
Sauvignon Blanc, 65 hl/ha, flatter land
Frost risk, wind machines
Less aromatic than Sancerre, need more bottle aging
Reuilly AOC
Same as Sancerre, but rosé can also be Pinot Gris
Quincy AOC
White only, Sauvignon Blanc (90%) or Sauvignon Gris
Menetou-Salon AOC
Same as Sancerre, gentle south slopes (more frost),
inexpensive to mid-priced
Languedoc environment
Warm Mediterranean, <600mm rain = 240,000 ha
NW Tramontane wind 2/3 of year, low yields
1/3 of France’s organic wine
Languedoc business
15% AOC, 70% IGP, rosé growing (+35%), exports +15% (growth in US, China)
Chateaus on rise
Trend of mid-priced wines, varietal blends from sub-zones + small producers
Sud de France promotional body
ViniSud wine fair
Pays d’Oc IGP
10-15% of all French wine, 1/2 red, 25% white - good to very good
Merlot, Cab, Chardonnay+Syrah , Marselan and Grenache Blanc
50% domestic (supermarkets, hospitality), exports to Germany, Netherlands, Blegium
Languedoc AOC
reds 50 hl/ha, whites 60 hl/ha
Percetange in vineyard and wine varies
Grapes: GSM, min. 2, none more than 80%
Principal blend min. 40%, others (Cinsaut/Carignan) max. 30%
Corbières AOC
10,000 ha - hilly Mont Tauch, D’Alaric up to 450 m
90% red, min. 40% GSM+Carignan, max. 20% permitted (Cinsaut) - yield 50 hl/ha
30% export: China, Germany, Belgium
Lledoner Pelut is principal variety
Terret Noir is permitted
Corbières-Boutenac AOC
Quality sub-zone, Grenache+Carignan+Mourvedre 70%
Syrah max. 30%, Carignan max. 50%
Minervois AOC
Range of altitudes, proximities to Mediterranean
GSM+C+C min. 50%
Balcons de l’Aude warmest, earliest harvest
Le Causse: limestone, altitude 200-500 m
Minervois La Liviniere
Only reds, limestone terrace 400 m
GSM min. 40%, GSM+C+C min. 80%
Rivairenc permitted
St Chinian AOC
Red and rose, GSM min. 50%
North: arid draining schist, Roquebrun+Berlou
South: clay/limestone, more water retention+less concentration
Fitou AOC
Split around Corbieres, first AOC in 1948
Flat clay/limestone plain at coast, draining schist inland
Carignan 10-40%, Grenache min. 20%
Mont Tauch co-op 1/2 of production
Faugeres AOC
250-400m, draining schist: 50 hl/ha red
Low avg. yield 33 hl/ha
40% organic, one year aging
90% of consumption in France
Pic-Saint-Loup AOC
1,000 m - continental w/cold winters 50% Syrah w/G or M, only red and rosé Lascaux Les Nobles Pierres Syrah w/G Rose 30% min Syrah Hail damage 50% in 2016 Montpellier close (development danger)
Terrasses du Larzac AOC
120-400 m, new in 2014 (20 degree diurnal range), foot of Mont Baudille
Only red, at least three varieties
Carignan max. 30%
La Peira
La Clape AOC
New in 2015, coastal Mourvedre 80% red
Whites 60% Grenache Blanc/Bourboulenc
Bourboulenc 40%, main includes Piquepoul Blanc/Clairette, permitted = Maccabeu
Picpoul de Pinet AOC
Made from Piquepoul Blanc, retains acidity
55 hl/ha, medium body, 65% export (UK 60% of export, US and Netherlands), tourism
Co-ops 90%, Ormarine
Malepère AOC
Mountains protect from Mediterranean, min. 40% Merlot, 2 varieties
Cabernet Franc, Cot
Cabardès AOC
Mediterranean and Atlantic, 40% Bordeaux, 40% Syrah or Grenache
Provence Overview
90% Rosé, red from GSM+C2, whites from Rolle+Clairette
Warm Mediterranean, Mistral cooling/disrupts fruit set
Organic vineyards 2x national average
35% Grenache, 15% Cinsaut+Syrah
Bush vines replaced by trellises, inter-row machine access
Tibouren best on coast
Provence Winemaking
Pale color reds incl. Cinsaut, Tibouren -20% white grapes allowed in blend but 10% typical, lower alcohol
Direct pressing most common, acidification typical
Protect against oxidation: chill fruit to 4 degrees, Inertys press
Stainless steel, cultured yeast 14-18 - fruity, not banana
Whole bunch = gentler extraction but more labor, machines faster + at night but need skilled driver
MLF blocked, fining makes wine paler
Côtes de Provence AOC
20,000 ha, 90% rosé - GSM, Cinsaut+Tibouren (blend)
Yield 55 hl/ha (45 hl/ha avg.)
Saint-Victoire sub-zone has 50 hl/ha (min. 50% Grenache/Syrah)
Fréjus is volcanic
Pale pink-orange, medium acidity
Cru classé to 25 estates, Clos Mireille
Chateau d’Esclans Garrus: new oak
Coteaux Varois en Provence/Coteaux d’Aix en Provence
Max. 50 hl/ha, same grapes w/Counoise, Carignan, Cabernet (30% max.) - with CdP, 95% of Provence wine
Aix = Vermentino whites
Les Baux de Provence AOC
Northwest, closer to Rhone - red wines, GSM 60%
Totally biodynamic: C3 up to 30%
Domaine de Trevallon releases Cab/Syrah blend as IGP Alpilles
Bandol AOC
Used to be more red, now rosé 60% volume
Terraced south slopes for wind protection
Limestone and clay, 600 ha
Pebbly limestone w/sandy marl, restanque terraces on hillside
Red 50-95% Mourvedre, 18 months (rosé min. 20%)
40 hl/ha
Domaine Tempier
50% co-ops (Vignerons de la Cadiérenne)
Bellet/Cassis/Palette AOC
Bellet: near Nice, Rolle w/ Chardonnay
Bracquet grape for rose-scented rosé
Cassis: only predominantly white Provence AOC, Marsanne dominated blends w/Clairette
Palette: Chateau Simone, hand harvest, 40 ha, 18 months - rosés include 15% white grapes
Provence Business
2/3 domestic, supermarkets+cellar door (tourism)
France consumes 1/3 of world’s rosé
US is 1/2 of all exports, UK next (13%)
1000% growth in value/half that in volume this century
Riviera used for marketing
Var department is 60% co-ops, Provence is 50% negociants
Roussillon Overview
21,000 ha in Pyrenees, 70% AOC (no flat land) -1/3 less since 1980s
AOC+PGI volume equal, 75% co-ops
500-600 mm, warm Mediterranean
15% organic
Bush vines, shading, trellising (manual labor)
Côtes du Roussillon AOC
5,000 ha, low slopes 100-250 m
Red, rosé+white max. 48 hl/ha
Vineyard Carignan max. 50%, Syrah +/or Mourvedre min. 25% - blend of 2, main max. 80%
Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC
Only red wines, less than 1/2 size of CdR
max. 45 hl/ha, often less, 100-400 m
Tautavel (Maury Sec) 42 hl/ha, Caramany carbonic Carignan
Collioure AOC
Boundaries of Banyuls AOC: makes dry red and white
Majority GSM reds, whites are Grenache Gris
Max. 40 hl/ha for red and white (typically 20-25 hl/ha)
Roussillon Business
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Red and white, some premium white (Domaine Gauby)
Clos des Fées, Le Soula
Domaine de Bila-Haut owned by Chapoutier
80% of dry wine domestic, export to China, Belgium and Germany
Portugal trends
190,000 ha (major drop in 30 years from replanting)
Alentejo investment: dry climate, flat, large estates
Training: VSP cordon/cane, bush vines in Douro/Alentejo field blends
Only 2,700 ha organic (don’t bother)
Blends typical, native varieties on rise
Bairrada traditional toneis (3-6,000l)
Skin contact/fermentation for whites
Portugal Business
Entry to EU 1986: loans/grants, co=ops are closed
Export focus: 2011-2014 bailout by EU/IMF
31 DOC+14 VR
Grapes sold to large producers, Sogrape acquires vineyards for diversity/control
Growers becoming producers, some winemakers have no vineyards
5.5 m hl wine, 2.3 m hl exports
DOC 27% of exports (40% by value)
France, Angola, Germany + UK by volume
France, US, UK + Brazil by value
Vinho Verde environment
Atlantic, River Minho, Peneda-Geres National Park mts.
16,000 ha, 9 subregions
moderate maritime, 1500 mm rain
Vintage variation: high in 2017, fell after
Inland fuller body Avesso+Alvarinho
Soils: granite bedrock, decomposed sandy granite topsoil, low fertility (manure)
Vinho Verde vineyard
Training up trees for air circulation traditional, enforçado
Pergola is ramada
Modern: rows, single/double cane Guyot+VSP, or Lyre
Summer pruning, removal of shoots/green harvest
Vinho Verde Grapes
80% white, 5% rosé (flip since 60s)
Loureiro: everywhere, more near coast
Mid-ripening, med(+)acidity, floral/herbal
Alvarinho: expanding, varietal since 2016 - med(+)body/acidity, peach
Pedernã (Arinto)-mid-ripening, neutral, high acidity
Avesso: late ripening, full body, stone fruit, less acidity
Trajadura: low acidity, peach, blends
Vinho Verde Production
Inexpensive blends, protective: carbon dioxide added, early release, low alcohol w/some sugar
Single varietal/region have lees, old oak, ambient yeast
Min. 8% ABV or 9% for sub-region
Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço: min. 11.5%
Monovarietal alvarinho only allowed from MeM, otherwise name allowed on blend if it is 30% at least - or wine declassified to Minho VR
Vinho Verde Business
Fragmented, less than 0.1 ha (1,500 ha), only 400 bottle wines
Lima sub-zone for Loureiro varietal
Escolha, Superior: quality levels
Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Avesso, Alvarinho Contacto (skin contact)
Quinta de Soalheiro
DOC makes up 37% of Portuguese still wine exports
35% exported: Germany, US, Brazil+France(US by value)
Douro Overview
Douro DOC established in 1982, 38,000 ha
Fernando Nicolau de Almeida (Ferreira): Barca Velha, 1952
- Majority Tinta Roriz, other grapes - ice from Matosinhos
After EU in 1986 - jump in quality and equipment
Schist bedrock with decomposed schist topsoil
2019 change in irrigation - notify IVDP if needed for quality
North aspect, high altitude and westerly sites good in warm years
Douro Grapes
Grapes
Wines are typically blends, similar to port production
Touriga Franca - medium body, red and black fruit, floral
Touriga Nacional - high tannin + color, violet + rose
- both key for acidity and ripe black fruit
Sousão increasing, high acidity even for warm years
White grapes: grown at highest altitudes
Viosinho - Full body, floral and stone fruit (lacks acidity)
Rabigato - high acidity, citrus/floral
Gouveio - a.k.a. Godello, medium(+) acidity, stone fruit
Moscatel Galego Branco for aroma
Douro Winemaking
> 70% is red wine, range from inexpensive to premium
Prats & Symington, Quinta do Vale Meão
Destemming typical (high tannin grapes, green flavors)
24-28 C fermentation, low for red wines (tannin control)
Lagars sometimes used: easier to monitor extraction
Larger oak (400-500l) now becoming more common
25% is white wine, typically medium/medium(+) acidity
Premium whites fermented in oak, old vine grapes
Douro Business
Business
Port is 60% of region’s production, but Douro DOC growing (more than 500,000 hl in 2017)
Still wines represent 30% of DOC production, VR Duriense for producers who use international grapes (Syrah, Chardonnay)
Price for Douro DOC grapes is much lower than Port grapes
Niepoort’s Batuta: Roriz Franca Rufete
Quinta do Crasto monovarietal
Domestic 64% by volume, exports Canada, Brazil and UK
Dão Overview
Warm Mediterranean climate, surrounded by mountains
Rainfall from 1,100 mm in east to 1,600 in west, mostly fall/winter
Around 20,000 ha of vines in a large pine/eucalyptus forest
Typical altitude is 400-500 m, range from 200-900
Serra da Caramulo Atlantic protection
Serra da Estrela in east, 900 m
Soil: Sandy/loamy granite, low organic matter, free draining
Hazards: Summer hail and spring frosts
Bush vines are now double/single Guyot (cane) or cordon VSP
High around 250,000 hl DOC wine
Quinta das Maias: elegant Jaen, organic
Dão Red Grapes
Grapes
80% red wine, generally fresher and higher acidity than Douro
Touriga Nacional: high tannin and acidity, black fruit and floral
Tinta Roriz: Early ripening, medium/medium(+) tannins, full body
- Either for single varietal or blend
Jaen: Moderate acidity, raspberry/blackberry (sometimes carbonic)
Alfrocheiro: Medium body/tannin, strawberry + blackberry
- Soft and fruity on its own, or added to blends
Reds used to be astringent from oak, shorter periods now typical
Dão Business
> 90% of vineyards less than 0.5 ha, more than 30,000 growers
Producers: Vinha Paz and Quinta da Pellada
15-20% exported: Canada, Brazil, USA and China
Bairrada Overview
Maritime climate, 800-1,200 mm of rain in spring and autumn
10,000 ha of vineyards
Soils: fertile alluvial in west, limestone/clay slopes
Cantanhede: limestone clay for Baga in south
Individually staked bush vines were traditional, now Guyot (cane) or VSP
Bairrada wines
2/3 red wine
Baga: high acidity/tannins, medium body, cranberry/cherry/plum
High-yield Baga used for Mateus Rosé (lack concentration, astringent)
Quality increasing in last 30 years
Late ripening, productive: yields have to be limited and sites selected
South aspect, eucalyptus and pine forests prevent against wind
Limestone-clay soils for best ripening and water retention - reflect sunlight, aiding ripening
Green harvest to enhance ripening
Whole bunches add fruit, stems give structure for aging
Maturation in large (500-650 l) French oak, or large toneis
Niepoort Lagar de Baixo Baga
Hotel Buçaco blends
Bairrada White Grapes
Maria Gomes: early ripening, high yielding, citrus and floral
Bical: Early ripening, peach + tropical
- Both lose acidity quickly if left on vine
Arinto + Cercial: Apple/citrus, add acidity to blends
International varieties like Sauvignon Blanc + Chardonnay
Sandy soils produce inexpensive wines
traditional method sparkling is 10% of production
Dão White Grapes
Encruzado: Medium/medium(+) acidity, full body, lemon and peach
- Oaked wines age with nutty flavor - Malvasia Fina, Bical and Cercial are also common
Bairrada Business
Baga Friends = small group of quality producers
2,000 growers, with merchants and co-ops
Bairrada 92,000 hl in 2017, 52,000 in 2018
VR Beira Atlantico = 25,000 ha
Luis Pato/Filipa Pato use VR label to object to international varieties
Baga Clássico
min. 50% Baga, min. 85% blend of Baga, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen and Camarate
Lisboa Environment
From Lisbon to 150 km north
Coastal Serra de Montejunto range splits region
18,000 ha
Clay-limestone on coast, challenging wet region
East region more protected for fuller bodied wines
Lisboa Grapes
Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, Arinto have highest potential
International varieties: Syrah, Cab. Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, riesling
Alenquer DOC
Full bodied sheltered reds from Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, Lisboa
Bucelas
river valley 2-3 degrees cooler - marl and limestone
Arinto must be 75% of blend, high acid, sometimes lees
Colares + Carcavelos
historic coastal DOCs
Colares: ungrafted bush vines + sand for high acidity reds and local whites
Serra de Sintra foothills: red Ramisco, holes in sand w/ bamboo sticks
Carcavelos: sweet fortified white wine
Lisboa Business
most production from Lisboa VR, 877,000 hl (vs. 60,000 hl in DOCs)
Casa Santos Lima makes 40% of certified wine: private labels for retailers to export
Carcavelos: sweet fortified white wine
Setúbal
9,500 ha of vineyards
Hot Mediterranean climate, mild winters
Southern mountains for clay-limestone high altitude sites
Flat and sandy sites with clay and schist inland
- International varieties such as Cab. Sauvignon/Syrah (cool slopes)
- Whites: Fernão Pires, Moscatel + Arinto
Peninsula de Setúbal VR: Larger area, more flexible
217,000 hl
José Maria da Fonseca (Periquita)
Serra da Arrabida in south (clay/limestone), Palmela in north
Castelão used to be called Periquita
José Maria da Fonseca first Fair’n Green winery in Portugal
Periquita Reserva: new French/American oak, VR Peninsula Setúbal
Palmela DOC
In Setúbal, red wines, min. 67% Castelão, 171,000 hl
- Deep color, full body, red berry, oak common - Warm sandy flat vineyards produce best quality - Clay-limestone slopes are best for early drinking
Tejo
Inland of Lisboa, originally for volume production on fertile riverbanks
Hot Mediterranean, 750 mm rainfall
North is rainier, clay-limestone + schist: red wines
Near river, fertile alluvial soils, vigor management: white wines
South is driest, poor sandy soils: Red and white
Usually fruity style, range of wines such as Trincadeira, Castelaõ, Syrah, Cab, Fernão Pires, Arinto, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay
Quality producer: Quinta da Alorna Castelão + Fernão Pires, also Alvarinho/Viognier blend
Zones: northern Bairro for clay/limestone+schist, Charneca flat sand, Campo alluvial soils
Alentejo Environment
Hot Mediterranean, 500 mm rain in south and 800 mm in north
Drip irrigation common
Soils include granite, schist, limestone, sand to clay
Double cordon with VSP (cane requires more labor)
Portalegre has high altitude 800 m (fresher, smaller vineyards, field blend)
Sub region: Evora
Talha DOC: destemmed, amphora until 11 November, from sub-region
Portalegre: cooler, granite soils, Tapada do Chaves field blends
Symington + Sogrape own quintas in Portalegre
Alentejo Red Grapes
Black grapes are 75% of plantings
Aragonez (Tinta Roriz), Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira common as blend
- Aragonez can become overripe (cooler sites)
- Alicante Bouschet is teinturier, deep color, acidity + tannins
- Trincadeira susceptible to rot, high yields, medium tannin/acidity, blackberry
- Touriga Nacional sometimes included
Syrah most common of international grapes, Cab. Sauvignon decreasing
Petit Verdot for spice and tannin/color growing
Alentejo White Grapes
Roupeiro: Good acidity, susceptible to rot
Citrus and stone fruit, do not age well
Arinto: acidity retention
Antão Vaz: Drought tolerant, for early picked or full bodied, or talha wines
- can lack acidity
Chardonnay and Viognier are allowed, Alvarinho increasing
Astronauta Vinho de Talha Roupeiro
Alentejo Business
23,000 ha
DOC Alentejo made of 8 sub regions
Vinho de Talha DOC in 2010 for amphora skin wines
Corners 37% of domestic market by volume, 40% by value
20% of Portugal’s exports: Brazil, Angola, USA, Switzerland, Canada
From 510,000 hl to 592,000 hl - 2017 to 2018
Alentejano VR also increased in those years
Larger holdings than other regions, high volume mechanized vineyards
nearly doubled since 1995, now 285 producers and 22,000 ha
Proximity to Lisbon means cellar doors and other products such as olive oil
Loire Business
Specialist wine retail/hospitality (44% in France), supermarkets (36%)
80% domestic consumption
Exports 20%: US, UK and Germany
Sancerre has highest volume and value (50% more than avg. price of rest)
Gevrey-Chambertin AOC
Red wine only, largest village (Charmes Chambertin AOC)
Domaine Fourrier
Morey-Saint-Denis AOC
Almost all red wine (Clos de Tart AOC)
Domaine Dujac
Chambolle-Musigny AOC
Red only in village (Bonnes Mares+Musigny AOC)
40-50 m higher, sand amphitheater
Grower: Sylvain Cathiard
Vougeout AOC
Small red+white (Clos de Vougeot AOC, 50 ha)
80 growers
Vosne-Romanée AOC
Red only (Romanée-Conti AOC), Anne Gros La-Romanée 35 hl/ha
Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC
Almost all red (Premier Cru Les Saint-Georges)
Henri Gouges
Aloxe-Corton AOC, Pernand Vergelesses AOC and Ladoix-Serrigny AOC
Corton hill
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC only white
Corton Grand Cru AOC has multiple lieux-dits, mostly red but also white
No red grand crus further south
Beaune AOC
Mostly red (also white), 1er Cru Le Clos des Mouches, Les Grèves
Domaine Drouhin
Grower: Morot
Pommard AOC
Only red, 1er cru Les Rugiens and Clos des Épeneaux (Dames de la Charité)
Volnay AOC
Only red, 1er Cru Clos des Chênes and Les Caillerets
Lafarge
Meursault AOC
Only white, Perrières and Charmes
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Puligny-Montrachet
Only white
Grand Crus: Le Montrachet AOC, Bâtard-Montrachet AOC
Chassagne-Montrachet
Some red at village and 1er Cru level
St Aubin AOC
Only white, 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou and En Remilly
St Romain AOC: Mainly white
Auxey-Duresses AOC + Santenay AOC
Mainly red
Bouzeron AOC
100% Aligoté, finest plantings
Domaine A et P de Villaine
Rully AOC
More whites than reds (1er Cru for both, 25% of appellation)
Crémant de Bourgogne is major here
Jacqueson
Mercurey AOC
More red than white, 25% 1er Cru
40% of Chalonnaise red
Faiveley
Givry AOC
Mostly red, 40% 1er Cru
Montagny AOC
Only white, 2/3 1er Cru
Louis Latour is large part of production (1er Cru La Grand Roche)
Mâconnais
Mostly white, inexpensive often labelled as Bourgogne AOC
Reds are often Gamay
Lafon makes single-vineyard whites (Clos de la Crochette in village of Chardonnay)
Cave de Lugny cooperative
Mâcon AOC
Mostly red/rosé, small white
Mâcon-Villages
Mâcon-Chardonnay, Mâcon-Lugny
Named villages: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, Saint-Verán AOC + Viré-Clesse AOC
Also Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché
Petit Chablis
Higher and cooler, Portlandian (Tithonian) hard limestone w/less clay, 60 hl/ha
Chablis
Kimmeridgian, different aspects
(Flat land or gentle slopes, often face north), 60 hl/ha
Chablis Premier Cru
40 named vineyards, S and SE slopes, Kimmeridgian
Some have lieux-dit piece of land within them, this name can be used
e.g. Montmains on left bank has Butteaux, 58 hl/ha
Chablis Grand Cru
Single Grand Cru with 7 named climats: e.g. Les Clos, Vaudesir
SW on right bank of Serein (more weight and concentration
Soil: crumbly marl for drainage, clay for water retention
only 1% of production
Protected from north wind by belt of trees
54 hl/ha
Chablis winemaking
Chaptalisation common except in warm years
Stainless steel fermentation, steel/concrete storage
MLF is common, lees as well
Raveneau old oak, Louis Michel steel, Fèvre new oak
China Overview
Cabernet Sauvignon by far dominates
Merlot, Carmenère (Cabernet Gernischt)
Red predominantly - oak or not
French investment is key
China History
- Late 19th century, Zhang Bishi imports 150 V. vinifera varieties
- Changyu winery in Yantai (Shangdong Province)
- Expansion in 1980s: CITIC partnership with France and Remy Martin
- Dynasty wine, in Huailai (near Beijing)
- Dragon Seal joint venture w/Pernod Ricard
- Ningxia Province: Chandon
- Government campaign in 1990s promoted wine
- Health and shortage of grains (less grain alcohol)
- 10% of vine area for vineyards (rest for table grapes, gift giving)
- Domestic wine shift: anti-extravagance laws mean wineries cannot gift to officials
- Consumers are now targeted
Heilongjian + Jilin
Far northeast, extreme cold (winter burying, water retention underground)
Beijing + Hebei
Humid continental, torrential rain August/September
200-300 mm rain per year, cool Pacific breezes moderate temps and reduce humidity
Fungal diseases in summer
Plantings used to be flat land, poor draining and fertile
Vines near ocean do not need burying, but have humidity, rain and fertile soils
Wine+ecotourism, grape festival and Great Wall route
Shandong
Warm maritime, wetter and w/rain August/September before or at harvest
Rot is a problem due to precipitation
1/4 of China’s wineries, Chateau Lafite’s Penglai Estate tourism - Long Dai Marselan
Shanxi + Shaanxi
Dry continental (<500 mm rain)
Grace Vineyard Aglianico on loess
Shaanxi is more humid to the south, more fungal disease
Ningxia
Arid continental (200 mm rain), monsoons, windy
Yellow River for irrigation water
Helan Shan region: mountains protect from NW desert wind
Silver Heights
Kanaan Riesling
Xinjiang + Gansu
NW Xinjiang extremely dry (80 mm of rain), early winter snow
Wind and frost (spring and autumn), vines at 1,100m+
Water from snowmelt Tian Shan mountains, warm climate+dry=high volume
Gansu is dry, short growing season, cooler than Xinjian
Wine sold to wineries in east
Yunnan
Far south, sub-tropical and humid High altitude (1,600-2,900 m) slopes in Himalayan foothills Long season without frost, no winter burying Ao Yun includes Petit Verdot
China Vineyard Management
Traditional vineyards: ungrafted
- Multi Cordon Fan training (low trunk, table grapes)
- Single Dragon (spur-pruned cordon at angle)
These systems are high-yielding, w/o single fruiting zone (uneven ripening)
New training: Chang spur-pruning w/trunk bent for easy burial+unified fruit
Quality risks? Dense canopy, over-irrigation and fertilization
Leaf roll virus (under-ripe fruit)
Use of Cabernet Sauvignon+Carmènere: green flavors if under-ripe
Lack of training and planting material (in past)
All land is government-owned, so changes have to be officially approved
Vineyard advisers cannot change training system without agricultural unit
Burying from November to March-April: manual labor skill, 20-30% cost increase
- Machines can help but people are essential
- Older skilled laborers want more pay, younger people want to go to cities
China Winemaking
V. amurensis (Amur Valley), cold-resistant but unusual aromas
70% Cabernet, 10% Carmenère
Winemaking
Bordeaux-style, premium wines 18 months in French oak
Technical skills improving, faults decreasing (volatile/Brett)
Better canopy management and harvest planning: riper tannins
Top award won by Helan Qingxue at Decanter
China Law
Wine is treated as food product, whether Chinese or imported
100% fermented grape juice, alcohol percent, production date + shelf life
10% industrial (not agricultural) tax on product
China Business
Affluent middle-class: market growth 70% in last decade
5th largest consumer in world, per capita very low (1.5 liter)
3 companies: Changyu, Great Wall (COFCO) and Dynasty
- Mostly bulk, rely on blends w/imported wines
- Diverse portfolios: COFCO’s Chateau Junding premium
- Acquisition of foreign wineries
- Grace Vineyard in Shangxi, Silver Heights in Ningxia, Ao Yun in Yunnan
China Trends
Online sales important (TMall) and Alibaba
Fraud of top imported wines is a problem
Consumption overwhelmingly domestic
Wine can be purchased at any time of day in supermarkets, hospitality, KTV, tobacco
Jura Environment
Moderate continental, high rainfall (1,100 mm)
Threat to flowering, fruit set - makes vineyard work difficult (heavy clay soils)
- Weed work and fungal disease sprays add cost, hail loses crop
Altitudes: 250-400 m, clay + marl soils (some limestone)
Grass between rows reduce erosion, less herbicide use (only right below vines)
Replacement cane at height (frost), VSP for air flow
Machine harvesting except on steep slopes
Avg. yield reds 23 hl/ha in 2017 (much below max. due to weather)
Jura Grapes
Chardonnay (40% of plantings)
- Cremant de Jura, early budding spring frosts
Savagnin (20% of plantings)
- Early budding (frost), resistant to fungals, steep marl slopes
Poulsard (15% of plantings)
- Very early budding, coulure and fungal diseases (less yield, cost)
Pinot Noir (10% of plantings) - Crémant, red blends, single variety increasing
Trousseau (8% of plantings)
- Thick skin, resistant to fungal disease (but botrytis is a problem)
- Poor flowering and coulure, vigorous variety
- Warm sites, gravel/low slopes or exposed higher slopes
Jura Winemaking
Whites: Mid-range temps in steel/oak barrels for Chardonnay/Savagnin (less fruity esters)
MLF is typical
Reds: Short maceration (5-10 days), 30 C or below
Poulsard can be carbonic/semi
Old oak aging (less than one year)
Trousseau and Pinot Noir may be macerated on skins longer
Very little new oak, some Chardonnay is “Burgundian”: old oak ferment with lees stirring for body
Vin Jaune
Savagnin fermented to dryness, then aged with ouillage - develops ‘le voil’ of flor-type yeast
No topping up or moving for 60 months (many wines for blending are removed earlier)
Inoculation or natural (well-ventilated cellar, temperature fluctuations in seasons)
Alcohol rises 1% up to 13.5-15 (transpiration through barrels)
Style: medium lemon/gold, pronounced dough walnuts, ginger green apple, medium body
Vin de Paille
Sweet wine, grapes dried off vine: any variety but Pinot Noir
More than 14% ABV, sugar 70-120 g/l typically, 18 months oak, 3 years aging
Yield 20 hl/ha
Côtes du Jura AOC
560 ha, whole Jura region including specific village appellations
- Any style allowed, but most is white
Arbois AOC
780 ha, all five wines, most Jura reds come from this AOC
Yield 55 hl/ha, average 23 hl/ha
Château-Chalon AOC
Vin Jaune only, 54 ha
L’Etoile AOC
White wines + Vin Jaune + Vin de Paille, 73 ha
Jura white wine
White wine (except for Vin Jaune/Vin de Paille)
- Savagnin and/or Chardonnay min. 80% of blend - Yield 60 hl/ha
Jura red/rosé
Red/rosé
- Pinot noir/Poulsard/Trousseau min. 80% of blend - Yield 55 hl/ha
Vine Jaune law
- Only Savagnin, yield 60 hl/ha
- Château-Chalon yield 30 hl/ha
- 60 months under voile
- Sale January 7 years after harvest
- 62 cl clavelin bottle (exception at EU level)
Jura Business
Vine radically reduced since 1850s
Vin Jaune is 5% of production, Vin de Paille tiny
50% estates, négociants 30%, 4 co-ops 20%
50% of wine from 3 companies:
co-op Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois
négociant La Maison du Vigneron
Henri Maire (owned by Boisset)
20% organic (2x French average), lots of natural wines
Vintage variation huge
South Africa Environment
Warm Mediterranean, Western Cape slopes and mountains
Benguela Current flows north, cooling influence
Agulhas Current from Indian Ocean between Cape Town and Cape Agulhas
Cape Doctor wind: SE, spring and summer - inhibits disease but can damage leaves/inhibit flowering
Pinotage
U of Stellenbosch, 1925: Cinsaut (Hermitage) x Pinot Noir
Early budding, moderate susceptibility to fungal disease
High alcohol + small berries: deep color, short post-fermentation maceration
Quality dubious, but avoiding water stress and lowering fermentation temps helps
South Africa Soils
- Table Mountain sandstone: sandy, low nutrients, draining (irrigation+fertilisation)
- Granite soils: foothill slopes of mountains: hold water, good for dry farming
- Shale soils: Good nutrients and water retention, good for dry farming
South Africa Vineyard
Acidity in Cape soils is an issue: lime treatment typical (otherwise, nutrient availability is affected)
Viral diseases such as leafroll/fanleaf reduce yield, require replacement
- Solution: viral testing
Powdery mildew most common, treated by systemic fungicides or organic treatments
Training: VSP cordon, 2.4m tall fruiting wire
Short spur pruning also common (mechanization), but hand harvest due to cheap labor
South Africa Sustainability
Integrated pest management (organic and biodynamic uncommon)
Integrated Production of Wine system: 1998, detailed guide to wine making, including soil, carbon emissions, staff training (90% of export producers, 95% of grapes)
- How is it controlled? Self-control, audits of documentation, spot-check
South Africa High-Volume
High-volume inexpensive High yield, spraying, little sorting Blend up to 15% of Colombard Acidification, no MLF, cultured yeast Cool fermentation, stainless steel or concrete Several months in tank/old oak, chips/staves Residual sugar 5 g/l or more (RCGM) Fining and filtering Bulk transport for bottling
South Africa Small-Volume Premium
Low yield, dry farming/old vines, some botrytis, sorting
100% Chenin Blanc
No acidification, no MLF, yeast depends on choice
Cool fermentation, maybe eggs or amphora
Fermentation in barrels for better oak integration
3-9 months on lees, or 10-12 months in eggs/amphora/old oak, or new oak for 10-12 months
No adjustment of sugar, 1.5-6 g/l
Fining and filtering as needed
Bottled in South Africa
Pinotage Winemaking
cold soak for extraction, pumping down/punching over early on for less tannins
Red plum/blackberry, high tannins, high alcohol
Traditional style has 3-5 days post-fermentation maceration, modern style lighter
Premium wines often have more than 50% new oak barriques, 12-15 months (75%)
South Africa Laws
Geographical unit: Large areas (Western Cape is nearly all of South Africa)
Region: Large areas such as Coastal Region or Breede River Valley
District: Stellenbosch, Walker Bay
Ward: Area within District (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch)
Ward is based on climate/soil/ecology, district is broader
Estate wine: grown made and bottled on estate
Single-vineyard also legal definition - Registered, single variety, no more than 6 ha
Wine of Origin South Africa
certifies labeling claim: 100% region, 85% vintage, 85% variety
Quality also certified, seal with ID number goes on packaging