Cosmetic Self Care and prescription products (3) Flashcards
What is photoaging
Photoaging is the premature aging of skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV) - from the sun or from artificial sources
This is different from natural skin aging process which occurs over time - the UV rays have damaging effects
Characteristics:
-premature wrinkles and loss of firmness
-thickening of epidermis in irregular pattern
-uneven skin pigmentation
-age spots
-dilated “spider” blood vessels on skin
-possible development of skin tumors (both benign and malignant)
Management of photoaging (goal and 5 options)
The goal is to reduce visible effects of sun induced skin damage and protect the skin from further damage
Options:
-non pharmacological prevention
-topical retinoids (OTC: retinol, retinyl palmitate, RX: retinoic acid (isotretinoin), tretinoin, tazarotene)
-keratolytics (AHAs, BHAs, polyhydroxy acid)
-antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, coenzyme q10)
-hydroquinone
Non pharmacologic photoaging prevention strategies
Daily sun protection
-avoid exposure, use SPF 30+
Physical and emotional healthy lifestyle
-physical activity, sufficient sleep, balanced diet, adequate hydration, healthy mental and emotional state
Skin care
-cleansing, hydration, moisturizer
Things to avoid…
-sleeping on back
-excessive exaggerated facial expressions
-abrupt changes in weight
-smoking
Topical retinoids counseling points
They require regular use - the effects are gradual and may take several months
Initially cause dryness and slight scaling (2 weeks-3 months)
-less with cream formulation vs gel
-use daily moisturizer to help
-if intolerable use every other night alternating with moisturizer
Initial redness and mild stinging may also occur…
-can decrease frequency if intolerable
Phototoxicity (increased risk of sunburn with these agents)
-must use sunscreen SPF 30+
Teratogenic - cannot be used in pregnancy
What to topical retinoids do/how do they work?
These boost cell turnover - improve signs of photoaging and chronological aging
-Make skin smoother and thicker, lighten age spots
What do keratolytic agents do/how do they work?
These exfoliate (peel off) the top layer of dead skin - results in smoother, non scaly skin - lessening fine lines and normalizing pigmentation
(BHAs, AHAs, polyhydroxy acid)
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) (products and ADRs)
common forms in cosmetic products: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid
ADRs: dryness and skin irritation (which is worse if used with other topicals like retinoids)
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Common product: salicylic acid
More lipid soluble than AHAs so they can penetrate deeper into the skin and have a greater keratolytic effect
ADR - skin irritation - start slow (every other night) and gradually increase frequency as tolerated
Polyhydroxy acid (use)
Similar to AHAs, but they cause less irritation, so they may be useful as mild exfoliants
(lactobionic acid, galactose, and gluconolactone)
Vitamin C
Antioxidant protects against photoaging
Mild adrs (redness, itching, irritation, tingling) - good recommendation for someone just starting off or for prevention
Hydroquinone
Depigmenting agent
-used for people with vitiligo and age spots (“liver spots”)
-can be used alone or with retinoic acid
Spots may gradually fade over several months of use
Works by suppressing melanocyte metabolic processes
●AEs: Allergic skin reaction, dermatitis, erythema, inflammation, stinging of the skin, xeroderma
Androgenetic alopecia
most common form of gradual onset gender specific hair loss
(aka male pattern baldness in men)
In AGA the hair follicle undergoes a stepwise change in growth - the anagen phase (active growth phase) becomes shorter and the telogen phase (resting phase) becomes longer
-telogen hairs undergo increased shedding and are replaced by shorter, finer hairs
-catagen phase (when hair stops growing and becomes detached) lengthens - decreasing number of hairs
Which product is the only FDA approved product for self treatment of AGA?
Minoxidil (Rogaine)
(MOA: increases cutaneous blood flow, promotes and maintains vascularization of hair follicles, directly stimulates follicular hypertrophy, and prolongs the anagen phase.)
Minoxidil (Rogaine) patient education
Hair loss may continue during first few weeks of use
May take up to 4-6 months to see results
Must be used continuously and indefinitely to maintain regrowth
AEs: localy erythema, pruritus
Rare - chest pain, dizziness, changes in vision
Exclusions for hair loss self care
-Under 18
-Pregnant, breastfeeding, or post partum hair loss
-Hair loss with no family history of it
-Hair loss with positive hair-pull test
-Hair loss related to history of endocrine dysfunction, medical treatments, and dietary deficiencies
-sudden or patchy hair loss
-evidence of fever/inflammation (3-6 months before hair loss begins)
-skin lesions that indicate autoimmune disorder or infection
-scaling, sunburn, or other damage to scalp
-broken off hair shafts that resemble fungal infection
-loss of eyebrows/eyelashes
-nail abnormalities
-women with sudden or severe hair loss