Cosmetic chemistry Flashcards
Term for something in a product that does not affect the appearance of the skin but is necessary to product formulation
functional ingredient
Term for something in a product that causes actual changes in the appearance of skin (E.g. moisturize, exfoliate, or smooth skin’s surface)
performance ingredients or active ingredients
Products that do not contain any water are called…
anhydrous
This type of functional ingredient helps place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin
emollients
Emollients are usually made of _______, which are substances such as fat, oil, or wax
lipids
Provide examples of mineral sources of oil emollients
- mineral oil
- petrolatum
- liquid paraffin
Name some botanical oils that have a very high comedogenic rating
- coconut oil (4)
- wheat germ oil (5)
- linseed oil (4)
- palm oil (4)
- coca butter (4)
- flax seed oil (4)
Name some botanical oils that have a low comedogenic rating
- argan oil (0)
- hemp seed oil (0)
- safflower oil (0)
- shea butter (0)
- squalane (1)
- rosehip oil (1)
- sea buckthorn oil (1)
The name for a group of oils chemically combined by silicon and oxygen and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin
silicones
Name for lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
fatty acids
When fatty acids are exposed to hydrogen, that become _________, which are non-drying and have a wax-like consistency and are used as emollients
fatty alcohols
Produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols, ______ are easily recognized on labels because they almost always end in “-ate”
fatty esters
This type of functional ingredient reduces tension between the skin and the product and also increases the ability of cosmetic products to spread
surfactants
A type of surfactant, primarily used in cleaning products
detergents
A type of surfactant that causes oil and water to mix
emulsifiers
A functional ingredient used to distribute a product’s key ingredients into the skin once it’s applied
delivery systems
A type of delivery system that carry and spread ingredients into the skin to make them more effective
vehicles
A delivery system that uses microscopic hollow, fluid-like spheres filled with performance ingredients to encapsulate and protect them
liposomes
These ingredients prevent bacteria, fungi, molds, and other microorganisms from living in a product
preservatives
Formaldehyde releasers and parabens such as butlparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, imadozolidinyl urea, and Quaternium-15 are examples of…
preservatives
Sorbic acid, benzoic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and benzyl alcohol are examples of…
organic/natural alternative preservatives
Citric acid, BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluence are examples of…
antioxidants
Ingredients added to cosmetics that boost the efficacy of preservatives (such as disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, and Trisodium EDTA) are called…
chelating agents
Ingredients added to mask a formulation’s unpleasant natural smell, neutralize the smell, or improve the consumer’s experience are called…
fragrances
What are the two types of fragrances?
synthetic and natural
Highly concentrated plant oils used for their natural aromas are called…
essential oils
Derived from an ancient practice of using natural plant essences to promote health and well-being
aromatheraphy
The lining of the nasal cavity has tiny ______________ that communicate with parts of the brain
olfactory nerves
Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products its color
color agents
Insoluble pigment made by combining dye with an inorganic material
lakes
Certified colors listed on ingredients as _____ as synthesized mainly from raw materials obtained from petroleum
D&C (drug and cosmetic)
Color additives obtained from mineral, plant, or animal sources are considered _____________ and are not subject to FDA batch certification requirements
noncertified colors
A functional ingredient added to products to give them a specific consistency
thickeners
A type of thickener used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products
carbomers
Also called buffering agents, these stabilize products and prevent changes in the pH
pH adjusters
Give an example of a pH adjuster
- Sodium bicarbonate (i.e. baking soda)
- Acetic acid
- citric acid
- sodium hydroxide
A functional ingredient that helps dissolve other ingredients
solvents
This category of ingredient originates from a plant, including herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, leaves, and seeds
botanicals
The process of removing dead skin cells from the skin’s outermost layer
exfoliation
What are some examples of mechanical/physical exfoliation ingredients?
- Rice bran
- Oatmeal
- Magnesium crystals
- Jojoba beads
- Ground nuts and seeds
- Beeswax
A type of chemical exfoliation that dissolves keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface to make skin softer and smoother
enzymes
Water-soluble acids that dissolve the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, allowing them to slough off
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Give examples of AHAs
- Citric acid (oranges and lemons)
- Glycolic acid (sugar cane)
- Lactic acid (milk proteins)
- Malic acid (apples)
- Mandelic acid (bitter almonds)
- Tartaric acid (grapes)
Name some types of enzymes
- Bromelain (pineapple)
- Papain (papaya)
- Pumpkin
- Pancreatin (beef by-products)
Which AHA has the largest molecular structure and is very gentle?
Mandelic acid
What AHA has the smallest molecular structure and therefore has the ability to penetrate the deepest of all AHAs?
glycolic acid
What AHA has a larger molecule size and also increases natural moisturizers and epidermal barrier lipids within the skin?
lactic acid
This type of exfoliating acid is oil soluble, meaning it can get down into the pores to cut through the oil that’s clogging them
beta hydroxy acid (BHA)
Name a BHA
salicylic acid
Name some natural sources for salicylic acid
- Meadowsweet
- Willow bark
A vitamin A derivative
retinol
Lightening and brightening agents are also known as…
tyrosinase inhibitors OR melanin suppressants
Provide examples of lighteners and brighteners
- Azelaic acid
- Bearberry
- Hexyresorcinol
- Kojic acid
- Licorice
- Vitamin C
What is one of the most effective skin lightening ingredients available but also one of the most controversial due to health concerns, especially when used long term?
hydroquinone
Name some controversial ingredients
sodium lauryl sulfate, preservatives, parabens, formaldehyde-releases, hydroquinone, color agents, nanoparticles, and plasticizers called phthalates
Terms that refers to ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface
- humectant
- hydrator
- hydrophilic agents
Examples of humectants:
- algae extract
- aloe vera
- glycerin
- hyaluronic acid
- honey
- sodium PCA
- Propylene glycol
- Propanediol
- polyglutamic acid
Provide examples of antioxidant ingredients
- alpha lipoic acid
- Coenzyme Q10
- green tea
- resveratrol
- pomegranate
- Vitamins A, C, and E
Vitamin A is composed of two parts:
- provitamin A carotenoids
- retinoids
Retinoic acid is the most potent retinoid approved as an active drug ingredient in the US, and it is of the ___________ group, meaning it causes sloughing of skin cells
keratolytic
This vitamin is an antioxidant that smoothes skin texture, brightens skin, and reduces inflammation
vitamin C
List the types of vitamin C:
- Ascorbic acid (water-soluble, very strong)
- Ester of Vitamin C (oil-soluble, highly stable)
- Vitamin C phosphate (water-soluble, very stable)
- Tetrahexyldecyl (oil-soluble; most stable)
Potent antioxidant that prevents moisture loss; tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate are common derivatives of this vitamin found in skincare
vitamin C
Also known as panthenol—deeply hydrates, soothes, heals, and regenerates skin
Vitamin B5
Niacinamide is a derivative of this B vitamin
Vitamin B3
This vitamin aids the body’s process of blood clotting, helps the body heals wounds and bruises
vitamin K
Short chains of amino acids; building blocks of proteins
peptides
A family of lipid molecules that restore moisture, reinforce the skin’s natural barrier, replenish natural lipids in skin
ceramides
Name some minerals found in skincare ingredients
- Copper - powerful antioxidant, stimulates collage and elastin synthesis
- magnesium - maintain moisture levels
- Zinc - boosts immune function and reduces inflammation
- Selenium - antioxidant
- silica - firming and tightening
- sulfur - antibacterial and anti-inflammation; good for acne and rosacea
- silver - anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound healing
- gold - healing and anti-inflammatory
The name for botanicals that have been used in skin care for their healing propoerties
healing botanicals
Naturally occurring botanicals extracted from the meristems of plants (their rejuvenation centers)
plant stem cells
List some healing botanical oils
- argan oil
- sea buckthorn oil
- camelia oil
- safflower seed oil
- meadowfoam seed oil
- baobab seed oil
- evening primrose oil
Examples of plant stem cells
- alpine rose stem cell
- echinacea stem cell
- orange stem cell
- sea fennel stem cell
Derived from yeast cells, these ingredients are hydrophillic, absorbing more than 10x their weight in water, they preserve hydration, collagen, and elastin by forming a protective film on the skin
polyglucans and beta-glucans
Also known as glycopolypeptides, these are yeast cell derivatives that have been found to enhance moisture content, immune response, and cellular metabolism
glycoproteins
Protein ingredients that regulate cellular growth and proliferation to promote skin tissue repair and regeneration
growth factors
The type of sunscreen that is considered organic/carbon-based
chemical sunscreens
This type of sunscreen is inorganic (without carbon) and physically reflect or scatter UV radiation
physical sunscreen
What are the two filter ingredients used in physical sunscreens
zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
