Coasts (Summary of Summary Slides) Flashcards
What is the fetch in wave formation?
The distance over which the wave has traveled
Fetch is a critical factor affecting wave size and energy.
What are the two types of waves?
- Constructive
- Destructive
What is the swash?
The water that rushes up the beach
What is the backwash?
The water that flows back towards the sea
What is erosion?
The wearing away of rock along the coastline
Which type of waves are responsible for coastal erosion?
Destructive waves
What are the four types of erosion?
- Hydraulic action
- Abrasion
- Attrition
- Solution
What is hydraulic action?
The sheer power of waves smashing against the cliff
What is abrasion in coastal processes?
When pebbles grind along a rock platform
What is attrition?
When rocks knock against each other and break apart
What is solution in erosion?
When seawater dissolves certain types of rocks
What are the four methods of transportation for beach material?
- Solution
- Suspension
- Saltation
- Traction
What is longshore drift?
The movement of sediment along the coastline
What leads to deposition along coastlines?
When the sea loses energy and drops the material it has been carrying
What are the factors leading to deposition?
- Waves slowing down
- Shallow water
- Sheltered areas
- Little or no wind
How are cliffs shaped?
Through erosion and weathering
What is a wave-cut platform?
A gently-sloping surface at the foot of a cliff
What forms a wave-cut notch?
Erosional processes such as abrasion and hydraulic action
What are beaches made up of?
Eroded material that has been transported and deposited by the sea
What type of waves build up beaches?
Constructive waves
What is a beach profile?
The cross-profile of a beach
What are berms?
Ridges on the beach profile showing high tide and storm tide lines
What are headlands?
Sections of land that jut out into the sea
What is a bay?
An inlet of the sea where the land curves inwards