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AS Geography Physical > Coasts key terms > Flashcards

Coasts key terms Flashcards

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1
Q

Wavelength

A

The distance between two successive crests

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2
Q

Wave frequency

A

Number of waves per minute

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3
Q

Wave crest

A

Highest point of a wave

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4
Q

Wave trough

A

Lowest point of a wave

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5
Q

Wave steepness

A

The ratio of the wave height to the wavelength

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6
Q

Wave period

A

The time taken for a wave to travel between one wavelength

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7
Q

Wave energy

A

A product of wind velocity, duration and fetch

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8
Q

Fetch

A

The distance the wind blows over the sea - the bigger fetch, the bigger wave

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9
Q

Erosion

A

EROSION IS THE WEARING DOWN OF ROCK BY MOVING FORCES - usually occurs at the base of our cliffs and by waves.

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10
Q

Weathering

A

WEATHERING IS THE WEARING DOWN OF ROCK ‘IN SITU’ BY ITS ENVIRONMENT - Sub aerial forces (like rain, air and temperature)

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11
Q

Mass movement

A

MASS MOVEMENT IS THE MOVEMENT OF ROCK DOWNHILL UNDER GRAVITY

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12
Q

Freeze thaw

A

Water repeatedly freezes and melts within rock joints in areas - as water freezes it expands and puts pressure on the rock, until it shatters

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13
Q

Pressure release

A

Overlying soil or regolith is removed, this pressure release can open joints in underlying rock

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14
Q

Biological weathering

A

Organic agents (trees, animals) grow and burrow into rock.

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15
Q

Chemical weathering

A

Occurs where there is alternate wetting and drying of an area which leads to a chemical reaction or breakdown of the cliff face.

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16
Q

Mechanical weathering

A

Takes place when rocks are broken down without any change in the chemical nature of the rocks

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17
Q

Soil creep

A

Top soil moves downslope under gravity - Wet and thawing periods add moisture and weight which increases creep

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18
Q

Solifluction

A

When an area begins to thaw, after a period of extended permafrost, the top soils can slide downslope as a whole layer

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19
Q

Mudflows

A

Heavy rainfall saturates ground on steeper slopes and unconsolidated soils flow downslope

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20
Q

Rockfalls

A

Rapid falling of rock/debris down very steep slopes or cliffs, rocks weakened by chemical weathering

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21
Q

Runoff

A

Surface runoff has ability to move soil and debris down slope - Particularly vulnerable are areas with little vegetation.

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22
Q

Slides and slumps

A

Slides and slumps maintain the structure of the strata of soil and rocks as they rotate and slip along weak fissures

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23
Q

Hydraulic action

A

Erosion of the cliffs caused by the force of water and air in the waves colliding against them

24
Q

Abrasion

A

Erosion of the cliffs as waves throw particles and rocks against them.

25
Q

Attrition

A

Erosion of the material carried in the waves. The material in the waves is smoothed as it bumps into each other

26
Q

Solution (erosion)

A

Erosion of the cliffs by the salts and acids in seawater. Salts and acids are able to dissolve some rocks

27
Q

Solution (transportation)

A

Minerals are dissolved in the water and carried along in solution.

28
Q

Suspension

A

Fine light material is carried along in the water

29
Q

Saltation

A

Small pebbles and stones are bounced along the river bed

30
Q

Traction

A

Large boulders and rocks are rolled along the river bed

31
Q

Deposition

A

The dumping of sediment by the sea - occurs when the waves lose energy

32
Q

Offshore

A

Beyond the influence of the waves

33
Q

Nearshore

A

Where the friction with the seabed causes the waves to slow and begin to break

34
Q

Foreshore

A

The zone of constant change - swash and backwash operate here - Littoral drift occurs - Berms, ridges and runnels are created

35
Q

Backshore

A

Affected by the spring high tides that deposits larger calibre sediment here

36
Q

Eustatic sea level rise

A

Sea level change caused by change in volume due to ice caps melting

37
Q

Isostatic sea level rise:

A

Sea level change caused by change of weight as ice melts on land

38
Q

Postglacial rebound

A

Ice physically pushes land down (glacial subsidence)- when ice melts, the land bounces/rebounds back up

39
Q

Example of sea level rise case study

A

Tuvalu, Polynesian Islands

40
Q

Example of hard engineering shoreline management plan

A

Lyme Regis, Jurassic Coast

41
Q

Example of soft engineering shoreline management plan

A

North Norfolk

42
Q

Example of headlands and bays

A

Swanage Bay, Dorset

Discordant coast line

43
Q

Example of a cliff, wave cut notches and platforms

A

Burgh Island, Devon

44
Q

Example of Cracks, Caves, Arches, Stacks and Stumps

A

Old Harry rocks

45
Q

Example of a spit

A

Spurn Head, Holderness Coast

46
Q

Example of a bar

A

Slapton sands, Devon

47
Q

Example of a tombolo

A

Chesil Beach - connects the Isle of Portland to the mainland of the Dorset coast

48
Q

Formation of a wave

A

1) The wind blows over the sea
2) This creates ripples
3) These ripples become bigger swells
4) Swells approach land
5) The sea becomes shallower
6) The bottom of the wave slows due to friction
7) The top keeps going and forms a crest
8) The crest topples forming a breaking wave

49
Q

Two parts of a wave

A
  • Swash: the movement of the wave up the beach

- Backwash: the movement of the wave back down the beach

50
Q

Characteristics of a constructive wave

A
  • Created by short fetch
  • Small, gentle waves with low energy
  • Deposit sediment
  • Swash is stronger than the backwash.
51
Q

Characteristics of a destructive wave

A
  • Created by large fetch
  • Big, strong waves with high energy
  • Erode the coastline
  • Backwash is stronger than the swash
52
Q

Spring tide:

A

When the moon is between the Earth and sun their combined gravitational pull creates the biggest bulge of water and the highest tide

53
Q

Neap tide:

A

When the Earth, moon and sun form a right angle their gravitational pull interferes with one another giving the lowest high tides and highest low tides - small tidal range.

54
Q

Tidal range:

A

The tidal range determines the vertical range of erosion and deposition and the length of time the littoral zone is exposed to subaerial weathering

55
Q

Tidal Bores

A

When water from an open stretch of ocean is confined in narrow sections of estuaries the tide is amplified

AS Geography Physical (4 decks)

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