Coasts GW1 - 3 Flashcards
what is the definition of coasts
the area where the land meets the sea
coastal environments are dynamic and changing due to?
waves
currents
tides
geology
human activities
ecosystem type: mangrove and coral
How do waves affect coastal environments?
Destructive waves will lead to erosion, while constructive waves will lead to deposition.
How are waves generated?
Waves are generated when energy from wind blowing across seas and oceans is transferred to the water surface. Therefore, factors affecting wind energy also affect the energy of waves.
What are the factors affecting wave energy?
There are 3 factors: fetch, wind speed and wind duration.
How does wind speed affect wave energy?
The faster the wind blows, the greater the wave energy is.
How does the wind duration affect wave energy?
The longer the wind blows, the larger the waves are; resulting in greater wave energy.
How does fetch affect wave energy?
The greater the fetch, the more energy the waves have as the wind would have passed through a larger body of water.
What are currents and how do they affect coastal environments
Currents are large-scale continuous movements of water in seas and oceans, driven largely by prevailing winds which generally blow in one direction.
Currents carry large amounts of energy and shape coasts through the processes of coastal erosion, sediment transport and sediment deposition.
Closer to the shore, nearshore currents help to shape the coastline, an example is longshore currents which flow parallel to the coast
What are tides and how do they affect coastal environments?
Tides refer to the daily alternate rising and falling of the sea level seen along the coasts, caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun on the earth. Each coastal area receives two high tides and two low tides daily which has significant impacts on the coast.
At high tides the waves erode and transport more sediments away from the larger parts of the coasts than at other times.
What is geology and how does it affect coastal environments?
Geology is the arrangement and composition of rock found in the area. Rocks may be arranged in layers such as in alternate layers of hard and soft rock. More resistant rocks like granite and basalt will erode slower as compared to less resistant rocks like limestone. Coastal processes that operate on coasts consisting of different types of rock result in coasts with different coastlines
What are human activities and how do they impact coastal environments?
Some examples of human activities are living, trading, fishing and engaging in recreational activities in these environments. People alter coastlines when they build marinas and port facilities and many more. They also cause pollution in these environments by dumping waste into the water.
Explain wave refraction.
Process by which waves change direction as they approach an uneven coastline.
Waves converge on headlands, increasing wave height and erosive energy.
Waves diverge at bays, decreasing wave height and erosive energy.
Occurs because shallower depths of water causes parts of waves to slow down relative to other parts of the wave.
Describe the type of environments where constructive waves and destructive waves occur at.
Constructive waves: low gradient and low energy environment.
Destructive waves: High energy environment with steep gradient.
Define ‘swash’ and ‘backwash’.
Swash refers to water that rush up a beach after the wave breaks, carrying sediments up the shore.
Backwash refers to the water that returns to the sea after the swash loses energy due to gravity and friction, carrying sediments back into the sea.
Explain the different coastal erosional processes.
(a) Hydraulic action
When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. The air is compressed by the oncoming waves, exerting pressure on the joints. As the air is repeatedly compressed, the joints weaken and the rocks shatter.
(b) Abrasion
As waves break, sediments carried by waves such as sand and rocks are hurled against the coast. The loosened sediments knock and scrape against the coastal cliffs. This weakens the surface and breaks down the coast. Overtime, the impact from abrasion is powerful enough to to undercut a cliff.
(c) Attrition
When rock particles carried by waves rub or hit against one another, they break down into smaller pieces and become smoother and more rounded over time.
(d) Solution
Sea water reacts chemically with water-soluble minerals in coastal rocks and dissolves them. For example, limestone rocks are easily eroded by carbonic acid. When solution of minerals occurs, rocks are weakened and eventually disintegrate.
Explain why deposition takes place.
(a) Sediments eroded from the coast are transported away and deposited elsewhere. When wave energy decreases, the waves are unable to carry these sediments. Large sediments are deposited first, followed by smaller sediments. Deposited sediments vary in type and size, resulting in a variety of beaches.
(b) The location of coasts influences the deposition of sediments. In areas where coasts are sheltered from strong winds, destructive waves are less common. Fine sediments are deposited along sheltered coasts with calm waters such as mangrove coasts. In deep bays sheltered by headlands. On the other hand, coarser sediments are likely to settle in more exposed areas where there is higher wave energy to remove the finer sediments.
Explain how sediments move due to transportation.
The movement of sediment happens during beach drift and longshore drift as a result of waves approaching the coast at an angle.
(a) Beach drift
As waves approaching the coast at an angle break on the beach, sediments move up the beach at an angle as awash and move perpendicularly down the beach as backwash. The resultant zigzag movement along the beach is known as beach drift.
(b) Longshore drift
When waves approach the coast at an angle, they generate longshore currents in the nearshore zone and move sediments along the shore. Longshore currents are ocean currents that flow parallel to a coast. The combined effect of sediment movement by longshore currents and beach drift is known as longshore drift. (Longshore drift is most rapid when waves approach a straight coast at an angle of about 30°.
How are headlands and bays formed?
- The coastline has bands of less resistant and more resistant rock that alternate.
- Less resistant rocks will erode faster than more resistant rock.
- The less resistant rock will erode away to form wide indented coasts, called bays.
- The more resistant rock extend into the sea as they erode less. These are known as headlands.
What are cliffs and shore platforms?
A cliff is a high steep rock face along the coast.
A shore platform is a gently sloping expanse of rock sediments/debris at the base of a cliff resulting from erosion.
How are spits and tombolos formed?
- Some coasts will have an abrupt change in the direction of the coastline.
- Longshore drift will continue to transport materials in the original direction for sometime.
- Longshore drift deposits materials in the sea where they accumulate over time.
- The accumulated materials eventually appear above the surface of the water, forming a spit.
- If the spit connects an offshore island with the mainland or another island, it is called a tombolo.
How are cliffs and shore platforms formed?
- The waves repeatedly pound against a rocky coast. This weakens the rock and causes lines of weakness to be formed in the rock surface.
- Hydraulic action and abrasion may erode a crack/lines of weaknesses/joints to form a notch.
- As erosion proceeds, the notch is deepened to form a bigger, hollow space called a cave.
- Further erosion by the waves eventually causes the roof of the cave to collapse and forms a cliff.
- As the erosion continues, an overhanging cliff is formed. Eventually, this overhanging cliff will collapse and materials will be deposited at the foot of the cliff. Some of these materials may be carried by waves and then are thrown against the base of the cliff causing further erosion.
- Overtime, the cliff will retreat inland and a gentle sloping platform appears at the base of where the cliff used to be. It is called a shore platform and it is submerged during high tide.
What are caves, arches and stacks?
Cave - a big, hollow space
Arches - a bridge of rock
Stacks - a pillar of rock in the sea left behind after an arch collapses