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Physical Geography > Coasts EQ2 > Flashcards

Coasts EQ2 Flashcards

Landforms and Landscapes

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1
Q

How are waves formed?

A

Friction between wind + water, energy from wind being transferred into water

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2
Q

What 4 factors does wave size depend on?

A
  1. Strength of wind
  2. Wind duration
  3. Wave depth
  4. Wave fetch
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3
Q

What way to waves move along?

A

Circular motion
Becomes elliptical due to friction on seabed

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4
Q

What is fetch?

A

Uninterrupted distance across water over which a wind blows (distance waves have to grow in size)

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5
Q

What are swell waves?

A

Wind that caused waves has dropped but remaining waves gradually make their way onshore

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6
Q

How are waves affected by water depth?

A

Water depth half wave size= friction between wave + seabed slows wave down

Wave length decreases + wave height increase as approach shore

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7
Q

Why do waves break in shallow waters?

A

Crest of the wave begins to move forward faster than wave trough

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8
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Waves with low wave height + long wave length

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9
Q

What are the features of constructive waves?

A
  • Strong swash
  • Weak backwash
  • Deposited sediment
  • On gentle beach profile
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10
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

Wave height of over 1m + wave length of 20m

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11
Q

What are the features of destructive waves?

A
  • Strong backwash (erodes beach materials + carried offshore)
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12
Q

What is swash?

A

Flow of water up a beach as a wave breaks

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13
Q

What is backwash?

A

Water runs back down the beach to meet the next incoming wave

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14
Q

What can be found at high energy coastlines?

e.g. Bristol, SW Wales

A
  • Destructive waves
  • Headlands, crack, cave, arch, stack, stump
  • Steep cliff
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15
Q

What can be found at low energy coastlines?

e.g. Mediterranean

A
  • Constructive waves
  • Sandy beaches
  • Sand dunes
  • Spits/ bars
  • Tombolo
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16
Q

What is beach morphology?

A

Shape of the beach (width + slope) + features (berms/ ridges)
- Types of sediment found at different locations on beach

17
Q

What is clastic?

A

Broken down rock

18
Q

What is biogenic?

A

Remains of living organisms

19
Q

What changes can happen to beach profiles over a long period of time?

A
  1. Sediment supply reduced
  2. Coastal management added
  3. Climate change
20
Q

When will most erosion occur?

A
  1. Waves are at their highest
  2. Wave approaches coast at 90° to cliff face
  3. High tide
  4. Heavy rainfall
  5. Debris from previous erosion
21
Q

What does a summer beach look like?

A
  • Berm in summer
  • Constructive waves
  • Depositional
  • Tidal range dries out sand creating berm (object for dunes)
22
Q

What does a winter beach look like?

A
  • Sediment removed
  • Destructive waves
  • Summer accumulation of sediment removed
  • Backshore steepness
23
Q

What features are at the beach?

A
  1. Berms + beach scarps
  2. Storm beach
  3. Ridges + runnels
  4. Cusps
24
Q

What is hydraulic action (wave quarrying)?

A
  • Air trapped in cracks + fissures compressed by force of waves crashing against cliff
  • Pressure forces cracks open
  • Dislodges blocks of rock from cliff face
25
Q

What are the influence of lithology in regard to hydraulic action?

A
  • Heavily jointed/ fissured sedimentary
26
Q

What is abrasion (corrasion)?

A
  • Sediment picked up by breaking waves thrown against cliff face
  • Sediment chisels away at surface + wears away
27
Q

What are the influences of lithology in regard to abrasion?

A
  • Suitably loose sediment has to be available
  • Softer sedimentary rocks more vulnerable
27
Q

What is attrition?

A
  • Acts on already eroded sediment
  • Sediment moved around waves + collide between particles chipping off sediment
  • Get smaller and rounder
28
Q

What are the influences of lithology in regard to attrition?

A
  • Softer rock rapidly reduce in size
29
Q

What is corrosion (solution)?

A
  • Limestone vulnerable by rainwater, seawater
30
Q

What are the influences of lithology in regard to corrosion?

A
  • Limestone (vulnerable to solution by weak acids)
31
Q

How is a wave cut platform formed?

A
  • Bottom of cliff eroded by hydraulic action + abrasion
  • Notch becomes deeper + overhanging rock becomes unstable + collapse
32
Q

What is a geo?

A

Narrow fault guided gullies

33
Q

What is a blow hole?

A

Forms when coastal cave turns upwards + breaks through flat cliff top

34
Q

How are tides formed?

A

Caused by combined gravitational pull of the moon + sun

35
Q

What is a neap tide?

A

Lowest tidal range
- Minimal difference between low/ high tide
- Moon is at right angles to Sun

36
Q

What is a spring tide?

A

Highest tidal range
- Alignment of Sun + Moon

37
Q

What is erosion?

A

Breakdown of rock due the action of some external force which transports eroded material to new location

Physical Geography (2 decks)

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