Coasts as natural systems Flashcards
What are the three sources of energy?
- Waves and wind
- Tides
- Currents
What is the definition of waves?
They are generated by the wind blowing over the sea.
They are affected by:
- Wind speed- pressure gradient
- Duration of the wind
- Fetch- distance the wave has travelled
What are the two types of waves?
- Constructive= strong swash so build up the beach
2. Destructive= strong backwash so cause beach loss
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
- Form in the open ocean.
- Long wavelength
- Strong swash and weak backwash.
- Gentle profile so build up the beach.
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
- Caused by local storms.
- Short wavelength
- Weak swash and strong backwash.
- Steeper profile, so over the time they will flatten the beach.
What is the definition of tides?
Changes in water levels of seas and oceans caused by gravitational pull of the moon and sun.
There are 2 high tides and 2 low tides per day and 2 spring tides a month and 2 neap tides. .
What is the definition of currents?
They are permanent or seasonal movement of water in the ocean.
What are currents generated by?
- Tides
- Wind
- Heat and salinity
- Earths rotation
What is the definition of longshore current?
Water that runs parallel to the coast caused when the waves hit the coast at an angle. This leads to LSD.
What is the definition of rip currents?
Water which moves away from the coast, caused when the waves lead water to ‘pile up against the cost on incoming tide.
Usually occurs when there is a change in direction of coast line.
What is the definition of global currents?
Have an impact on the planets oceans and weather systems.
E.G. The North Atlantic Drift
What is the different between high and low energy coasts?
- High energy coasts have powerful waves and the rate of erosion rates exceeds deposition rates.
- Low energy coasts have less powerful waves so deposition rates exceed erosion.
What is wave refraction?
Wave refraction is the bending of a wave as it propagates over different depths.
This causes energy to be concentrated at headlands and dissipated in bays.
Causes erosion at headlands.
What are inputs, outputs, stores and flows of coastal systems?
Inputs:
- Waves and wind
- Tides and currents
- Solar energy
- Sediment
Flows/transfers:
- Links in the system
- Driven by energy inputs such as waves and wind
Stores/components: - Headlands and bays - Cliffs - Wave cut notches - Beaches, spits etc (Anything physical around the coast)
Outputs:
- Dissipation of wave energy
- Sediment sinks
- Sediment which accumulates above high water mark
What is the difference between spring tides and neap tides?
Spring tide has a large tidal range and occurs when the moon and the sun are aligned.
Neap tide has a small tidal range as there is not much difference between high tide and low tide. This occurs when the sun and the moon are at right angles.