Coasts Flashcards
How can coasts be classified?
- geological structure
- concordant and discordant coastlines
- sea level rising
what is a littoral zone?
A coastal zone which contains many coastal sediments. Waves, currents and tides move the sediment around in a zone.
What is dynamic equilibrium?
A system is in dynamic equilibrium when its inputs and outputs of energy and matter balance.
Backshore(1)
above the influence of waves - weathering and mass movements occur on the back-shore
Foreshore(2)
the inter tidal zone or surf zone
Nearshore(3)
the breaker zone
Offshore(4)
currents and longshore drift may move sediments some distance along the coast
Human activities can interfere with natural processes
dredging of offshore areas to get sand and gravel for construction
- the building for coastal defences against erosion and flooding
Classification of coats
sections of the coasts can be classified into different types using a variety of criteria, such as geology, sea level rise, and land level rise and fall , which causes long term changes, and erosion and depositions which causes short term changes . Advancing or retreating
inputs
climate use of the beach marine storm surges atmospheric weather
processes
weathering transportation depostion erosion mass movements
outputs
erosional landforms
deposition landforms
geological structures at different scales
the shape of the coast is largely determined by geology and wave action. various aspects should be considered such as resistance to erosion and weathering, which relates to the degree of consolidation (how well the rock is stuck together), the number of joints and bedding planes and the amount of folding. Wave characteristics include energy which is related to size and shape, length of fetch, the prevalent and direction of the wind.
Concordant coasts
occur where the folding or arrangement of rock types on the rock layers, lie in the same direction of the coast (parallel). Destructive waves hit the coast in the winter and result in hydraulic action and abrasion attacking weaknesses (faults and joints). eventually the waves erode through the less resistant clays. eventually the erosion slows down and the more resistant chalk layers are reached and a cove has been produced.
Adriatic sea is an example
Discordant coastline
occur when the folding or the arrangement of rock types on a large scale (macro) is at a right angle (perpendicular) to the coast. Alternating bands of hard and soft rock create headlands and bays or inlets where there is less resistant rock, or a down-fold,
South west Ireland is an example
How do headlands and bay form?
form on discordant coasts, waves eroding softer rocks faster than harder rocks. bays have a semicircular shape once eroded the waves in the bay dissipate , lose energy and deposit a bay head beach. the resistant rock forms rugged rocky headlands that stick out in the sea . Once this stage is reached the shape of the coastline causes waves to refract as they approach the headstand and this concentrates wave energy on them, increasing the rate of erosion.
- headland and bays form when the layers of rocks are perpendicular to the coast - discordant coastline
- wave action erodes the less resistant rock quicker due to hydraulic action and abrasion to produce bays
- the more resistant rock is left cutting out as a headland. This causes incoming waves to refract (bend) and water becomes shallower (called wave refraction)
- wave energy is now concentrated on the headland . waves become higher and steer, increasing erosive power on the headland.
- the bay becomes sheltered as wave energy is dissipated
- the result in the formation of beaches as sediment is deposited in the low energy
- headland will finally erode to form a cave, arch, stack, stump.
how are Dalmatian coasts formed?
- tectonic activity folded limestone layers are so that ridges (anticlines) and valleys (syndics) formed parallel to the coast.
- Sea level rose following the end of that the ice age and drowned the valleys (retreating a submergent coastline)
- The ridges remain as islands running parallel to the coastline
- Croation Dalmation coast
How are Haff coasts formed
they form in low energy environments where there is deposition of muds and sands (long sediment ridges)- topped by sand dunes that run parallel to the coast - the build up has created lagoons -due to deposition on by onshore winds and low energy waves. Large lagoons are found behind the deposits parallel to the shoreline. The Baltic Sea coastline of Poland - Vistula Haff. They are on concordant run parallel to the coast e.g the south coast of the Baltic Sea
How does geological stucture have an affect on the coastal morphology and erosion rates
tectonic forces may cause rock layers to fold into complex formations. e.g. the Stair hole ‘crumple’ at Lulworth in Dorset is thought to have been created by collision of the African and the eurasian plates. During the process of the rock formation, pressure and cooling may crack a rock to form crevices, joints or larger faults. Joints are made as sedimentary rock there are also usually bedding planes .
lithology
refers to the physical characteristics of there rock . igneous, metamorphic, sedimentary and unconsolidated rock each have different charactersitics - this also influences the geological structure on a meso scale - sedimentary tends to be clearly defined layers.
Metamorphic
well connected and impermeable
- often folded and faulted so have weaknesses
- this rock types create rocky coastlines with steep cliff profiles cliffs (depending on folding and dip )
e. g. maybe, slate and schist
igneous
- their crystalline structure (interlocking crystals means they are well connected, impermeable and have few lines of weaknesses (joints)
- these rock types create rocky coastlines with steep profiles cliff and erode very slowly.
e.g. granite
recession rates 0.1-0.3 cm/yr
Lands End, Cornwall
Less resistant rocks
often layers of permeable rock where water can remove the cement between the particles, high water pressure can reduce stability
sandstone erosion rate - 10-100 cm/yr
least resistant are unconsolidated rocks have not been cemented together
erosion rated 100-1000 cm/yr
(slumped coastlines due to mudslides/landslides and slumping
sedimentary
limestone and chalk are relatively resistant but they are more vulnerable to erosion.
- clastics - made up of cemented sediment particles rather than interlocking spurs
- formed in strata (layers) with joints provided weaknesses and makes limestone permeable
- chalk is porous ( air spaces between them )
- can form wave cut platforms and under-cutting
- limestone erosion rate 1-2cm/yr
chalk 1-100cm/yr