Coasts Flashcards
What is backwash?
Waves moving down the beach at a right angle due to gravity.
What is a swash?
Waves moving up the beach.
What are the properties of constructive waves?
Strong swash and weak backwash, causing deposition.
What are the properties of destructive waves?
Weak swash and strong backwash, causing erosion.
What are landforms on a destructive coastline?
1) Headlands and Bays
2) Cliffs and wave-cut platforms
3) Arches and stacks
What are landforms on a constructive coastline?
1) Beaches
2) Spits
3) Tombolos
How are headlands and bays formed?
On coastlines with alternating soft and hard rock, the soft rock is worn away rapidly creating a bay and leaving the more resistant hard rock in headlands sticking out to sea.
How are cliffs and wave cut platforms formed?
Erosion is greatest at cliff foot, undercuts to create wave cut notch. As notch grows, cliff is unsupported and falls. Over time the cliff retreats and at the foot of the retreating cliff is a wave cut platform.
How are arches and stacks formed?
A crack in a headland is eroded by sea to make a notch, further erosion creates a cave. Sea breaks through headland making arch, roof of arch unsupported and falls, leaving stack. Stack eroded leaving stump
How are beaches formed?
In sheltered areas such as bays, constructive waves cause deposition. Longshore drift also contributes to the formation of beaches.
How are spits formed?
Sediment is moved by longshore drift and deposited where waters are sheltered by a headland. A hook is created when wind changes direction. Salt marshes often develop behind a spit.
What are Tombolos?
Where deposited sediment joins a mainland to an island.
What is beach replenishment and why is it sustainable?
When specially adapted boats, eg Sospan Dau, dredge sediment from sea bed and spray back to develop beach.
Sustainable as doesn’t damage the environment, attracts visitors to see the boat and creates beach for tourists.
What is beach reprofiling and why is it sustainable?
When sediment at sea edge is moved back up beach by trucks to form a slope, old tyres are used to form shape.
Sustainable as works with environment and uses tyres which would otherwise be waste. However, visual pollution by trucks.
What is beach reprofiling and why is it sustainable?
When sediment moved east by longshore drift is distributed evenly over beach so no area is susceptible to wave attacks.
Sustainable as does not damage environment and ensures no area is particularly at risk of wave damage