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coasts Flashcards

1
Q

what are the inputs into the coastal system

A

Energy is inputted in the form of wave energy, wind currents and tides. Material is inputted mostly through processes of erosion and fluvial processes. Landforms, sediment and the shape of the coastline are all outputs. Erosion, deposition, and transportation (longshore drift) all take place along the coast

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2
Q

what are outputs in the coastal system

A

Its output includes sediment leaving through the action of waves, deposition, and transportation. Its flows/transfers refer to erosion, weathering, transportation, and deposition.

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3
Q

energy in the coastal system

A

The ​sun is the primary source of energy for all natural systems. The main energy source at the coast is from ​waves which are formed offshore​, which are most commonly ​generated by wind​, or less frequently ​tectonic activity or underwater landslides causing tsunami waves​.

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4
Q

stores and components in the coastal system

A

Coastal examples of stores/ components are: These areas can be temporary stores such as barrier beaches, beaches and offshore bars and more permanent stores such as psammosere successions and haloseres. spits etc.

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5
Q

what is positive feedback

A

knock-on effects in natural systems which act to accelerate and amplify any changes that have already started to occur

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6
Q

what is negative feedback

A

the system adjusting itself in ways which lessen or cancel out the effect of an initial disruption

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7
Q

what is dynamic equilibrium

A

a state of balance within a constantly changing system

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8
Q

what is fetch

A

the distance over which the wind blows and the larger it is, the more powerful the waves will be

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9
Q

what are prevailing winds

A

The prevailing wind is the most frequent wind direction a location experiences. In Britain the prevailing wind is from the South West, which brings warm, moist air from the Atlantic Ocean, particularly the North Atlantic Drift. This contributes to the frequent rainfall.

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10
Q

characteristics of a constructive wave

A

Constructive waves are flat and low in height and have a long wavelength. Their strong swash carries material up the beach, forming a berm. They have a low frequency of between 6 and 8 waves per minute. The wave energy dissipates over a wide area which results in a weak backwash.

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11
Q

characteristics of a destructive wave

A

Destructive waves have a large wave height and short wavelength. They have tall breakers that have a high downward force and a strong backwash. Their frequency is high with between 13 and 15 waves per minute. Their strong downward energy helps erode beach material and cliffs. The strong backwash results in narrow beach profiles.

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12
Q

what is wave refraction

A

Wave refraction involves waves breaking onto an irregularly shaped coastline, e.g. a headland separated by two bays. Waves drag in the shallow water approaching a headland so the wave becomes high, steep and short. The part of the wave in the deeper water moves forward faster causing the wave to bend. The low-energy wave spills into the bays as most of the wave energy is concentrated on the headland.

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13
Q

what is long shore drift

A

The transportation of sediment along a beach. Longshore Drift is determined by
the direction of the prevailing wind.

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14
Q

what are rip currents

A

Rip currents are strong, narrow currents of water that move directly away from the shore, cutting through breaking waves. They form when water accumulates near the shore due to wave action and then flows back to the ocean through a channel.

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15
Q

what is upwelling

A

Upwelling is the process where deep, cold, and nutrient-rich water rises to the surface. It is usually caused by winds pushing surface water away, allowing deeper water to replace it, which supports marine ecosystems.

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16
Q

what is a spring tide

A

A spring tide occurs when the Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned (during full and new moons), resulting in the highest high tides and lowest low tides due to the combined gravitational pull.

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17
Q

what is a neap tide

A

A neap tide occurs when the Sun and Moon are at right angles to each other (during first and third quarter moons), leading to the lowest high tides and highest low tides due to the reduced gravitational pull.

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18
Q

what is a low energy coast

A

A low-energy coast is a coastal area where wave action is limited, resulting in less erosion and more deposition. These areas often have beaches, salt marshes, and estuaries.

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19
Q

what is a high energy coast

A

A high-energy coast is exposed to strong waves and frequent storms, leading to significant erosion and the formation of cliffs, headlands, and rocky shorelines.

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20
Q

sources of sediment

A
  • Rivers (fluvial deposition)
    * Cliff erosion
    * Longshore drift
    * Offshore sources (e.g., sediment transported by ocean currents)
    * Biological sources (e.g., shell fragments, coral reefs)
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21
Q

what is sub-areal weathering

A

Sub-aerial weathering refers to the processes that break down rock in situ on land due to exposure to the atmosphere. It includes mechanical, chemical, and biological weathering.

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22
Q

what is mass movemement

A

The falling or movement of rock, often due to Gravity.

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23
Q

what is a rock fall

A

A rockfall occurs when fragments of rock break away from a steep cliff face due to weathering or erosion, falling freely to the base of the cliff.

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24
Q

what is a mud slide

A

A mudslide is a rapid movement of saturated soil and mud downhill, often triggered by heavy rainfall, steep slopes, or deforestation.

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25
what is a land slide
A landslide is the downward movement of rock, soil, and debris along a slope due to gravity, often caused by heavy rain, earthquakes, or human activity.
26
what is slumping
Slumping is a type of mass movement where a section of land moves down a curved slip plane, often occurring in saturated clay cliffs.
27
define hydraulic action
The pressure of compressed air forced into cracks in a rock face will cause the rock to weaken and break apart.
28
define wave quarrying
When air is trapped and compressed against a cliff which causes rock fragments to break off the cliff over time.
29
define abrasion
A form of erosion where loose material ‘sandpapers’ the walls and floors of the river, cliff or glacier. Also known as attrition.
30
define solution
Solution refers to the process where soluble materials (e.g., limestone or chalk) dissolve in water and are transported in solution within the coastal system.
31
what factors affect coastal erosion
32
define traction
Traction is the process where large and heavy sediments (e.g., boulders and pebbles) are rolled along the seabed by wave action or currents.
33
define suspension
Suspension is the process where fine, light sediments (e.g., silt and clay) are carried within the water column, making the water appear murky.
34
what is aeolian transport
Aeolian transport refers to the movement of sediment by wind. It is significant in coastal environments where dry, fine sand is transported and deposited by wind action.
35
how is a wave cut platform formed
Waves erode the base of a cliff through hydraulic action and abrasion, creating a wave-cut notch. Over time, the notch deepens, causing the cliff above to collapse due to gravity. The process repeats, and as the cliff retreats, a wave-cut platform is left behind as a gently sloping rock surface.
36
what is a geo
A geo is a narrow, steep-sided inlet formed when waves exploit weaknesses such as joints or faults in coastal cliffs through erosion.
37
formation of cliff profile features
Wave-cut notches form at the base of cliffs due to erosion. Overhangs collapse due to gravity, leading to cliff retreat. Wave-cut platforms form as the cliff retreats. Caves, arches, stacks, and stumps develop in headlands due to differential erosion
38
what is a blowhole
A blowhole is a vertical shaft formed in a coastal cliff when a cave is eroded upwards, sometimes connecting to the land surface. During high tides or storms, water is forced through the hole, creating a jet of water.
39
what is a destructive beach
A destructive beach is a beach that experiences strong backwash and weak swash, leading to erosion rather than deposition. It is associated with high-energy waves and a steep beach profile.
40
what is a constructive beach
A constructive beach is a beach where strong swash and weak backwash result in sediment deposition, creating a gentle beach profile. It is associated with low-energy waves.
41
how is a simple spit formed
Longshore drift transports sediment along the coast. At a change in coastline direction, sediment is deposited, extending into open water. A narrow ridge of sand or shingle forms. The spit may develop a hooked end due to wave refraction or secondary currents.
42
how is a compound spit formed
A compound spit forms similarly to a simple spit but has multiple recurved ends, indicating changes in wind and wave direction over time.
43
how is an offshore bar formed
Waves transport sand offshore, depositing it in shallow water. Over time, these deposits build up to form a submerged or partially exposed ridge parallel to the coast.
44
how is a tombolo formed
A tombolo is formed when a spit extends and connects an island to the mainland, due to continued deposition of sediment.
45
how is a barrier beach formed
A barrier beach is formed when sediment is deposited parallel to the coast, creating a ridge of sand or shingle that separates a lagoon from the open sea.
46
how are sand dunes formed
* Sand is transported inland by wind. * Vegetation (e.g., marram grass) traps sand, allowing it to accumulate. * Over time, dunes develop into distinct dune systems through vegetation succession.
47
how is a barrier island formed
A barrier island is a detached, elongated sand deposit that runs parallel to the coastline, often separated by a lagoon. It forms due to wave and tidal processes.
48
types of sand dunes
* Embryo dunes (youngest, closest to shore) * Fore dunes (stabilized by vegetation) * Yellow dunes (more developed, with more plant cover) * Grey dunes (humus-rich, inland) * Mature dunes (fully vegetated, farthest from shore)
49
how is a mudflat formed
* Found in low-energy environments (estuaries, bays). * Fine silt and clay are deposited by slow-moving water. * Over time, layers build up to form a flat, muddy area.
49
vegetation succession of sand dunes
* Pioneer species (marram grass) colonize embryo dunes. * More vegetation stabilizes dunes, increasing organic matter. * Climatic climax vegetation (e.g., woodland) may develop over time
50
how is a salt marsh formed
* Mudflats accumulate sediment and allow salt-tolerant plants (halophytes) to colonize. * Vegetation traps more sediment, raising the marsh level. * A mature salt marsh develops over time.
51
what is eustatic sea level rise
Eustatic sea level rise is a global rise in sea levels due to melting glaciers or thermal expansion of seawater.
52
vegetation succession of a salt marsh
* Pioneer species (e.g., glasswort) colonize mudflats. * More vegetation stabilizes the marsh, increasing sediment accumulation. * Over time, higher areas support plants like reeds and grasses.
53
what is isostatic sea level rise
Isostatic sea level rise occurs due to land sinking or rising relative to the sea, often due to glacial rebound.
54
what is tectonic sea level change
Tectonic movements (earthquakes, subsidence, uplift) cause regional sea level changes by raising or lowering land masses.
55
what is a raised beach and how is it formed
A raised beach is an old coastal platform left above current sea level due to isostatic uplift.
56
what is a relict cliff and how is it formed
A relict cliff is a former sea cliff now above sea level due to land uplift.
57
what are rias
A narrow winding inlet which is deepest at the mouth, formed when sea levels rise causing coastal valleys to flood.
58
what is a fjord
Long narrow inlet deeper in the middle section than at the mouth, created when sea levels rise relative to the land, flooding coastal glacial valleys.
59
what is a dalmation coast
A Dalmatian coast forms when valleys parallel to the coast are flooded, creating a series of islands (e.g., Croatian coastline).
60
climate changes impact on coasts
* Rising sea levels increase erosion and flooding. * Stronger storms cause more coastal damage. * Loss of ecosystems (e.g., salt marshes, coral reefs).
61
examples of hard engineering
* Sea walls (concrete barriers) * Groynes (wood or rock barriers to trap sediment) * Rock armour (rip-rap) (large boulders absorb wave energy) * Gabions (wire cages filled with rocks)
62
examples of soft engineering
* Beach nourishment (adding sand to beaches) * Dune regeneration (planting vegetation to stabilise dunes) * Managed retreat (allowing controlled flooding of certain areas) * Marsh creation (encouraging salt marsh growth for coastal defence)

physical geog (9 decks)

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