Coasts Flashcards

1
Q

What is fetch?

A

The distance the wind blows across the water.

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2
Q

What is a swash wave?

A

Water that rushes up a beach.

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3
Q

What is a backwash wave?

A

Water that flows back towards the sea.

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4
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Low waves that have a powerful swash and ‘build’ the beach.

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5
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

Waves formed by local storms that ‘destroy the beach.’

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6
Q

What is weathering?

A

Wearing away of rock in their original place due to weather factors.

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7
Q

What is mass movement?

A

The sudden movement of rock, often on a cliff, due to gravity.

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8
Q

What is erosion?

A

The removal of material and the shaping of landforms by the power of the sea.

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9
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

The power of waves as they smash onto a cliff.

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10
Q

What is solution in terms of erosion?

A

The dissolving of soluble chemicals in rocks.

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11
Q

What is corrosion?

A

Fragments of rock picked up and hurled by the sea at the cliff.

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12
Q

What is attrition?

A

Rock fragments carried by the sea knock against one another.

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13
Q

What is abrasion?

A

The ‘sandpapering’ effect of pebbles grinding over a rocky platform.

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14
Q

What is long shore drift?

A

Movement of sand or pebbles along a beach in a zigzag pattern.

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15
Q

What is deposition?

A

Sand and pebbles dropped by the water when the waves lose energy.

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16
Q

What is a headland?

A

A narrow piece of land that projects from a coastline into the sea.

17
Q

What are bays?

A

A section of the coastline that curves inwards.

18
Q

What is wave refraction?

A

The bending of a wave as it moves towards the land and enters shallow water and slows down.

19
Q

What are wave-cut platforms?

A

The narrow flat area often found at the base of a sea cliff created by erosion.

20
Q

What is a spit?

A

A long narrow finger of sand or shingle jutting out into the sea from the land, created by long shore drift.

21
Q

What is a bar?

A

A spit which has grown across a bay.

22
Q

What is a discordant coast?

A

Alternate bands of harder and softer rock creating an indented coastline.

23
Q

What is a concordant coast?

A

A section of coastline with the same type of rock.

24
Q

What is coastal management?

A

Methods used to slow or control the rates of erosion at the coast.

25
Q

What is hard engineering?

A

Using man-made structures to slow erosion, e.g. sea walls.

26
Q

What is soft engineering?

A

More environmentally friendly methods that work with natural processes to protect the coast.

27
Q

What is managed retreat?

A

A more sustainable management type, allowing the sea to flood and erode certain sections of the coastline of low value.

28
Q

What is beach nourishment?

A

The addition of sand or shingle to make an existing beach higher.

29
Q

What is sand dune regeneration?

A

Planting marram grass on sand dunes to help stabilise sand dunes.

30
Q

What are groynes?

A

Wooden walls on a beach at 90 degrees to the sea. They aim to trap sediment (sand and pebbles) moving by long shore drift and build up the beach.

31
Q

What is a sea wall?

A

A solid concrete structure along the coast. Often these are curved to reflect waves back out to sea and reduce erosion of the coast.

32
Q

What is a salt marsh?

A

A boggy area of land behind a spit. Sheltered from waves it provides habitat to many species.