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Coasts Flashcards

1
Q

What is a discordant coastline

A

A coastline made up of different types of rock, some are more resistant than others

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2
Q

What is a concordant coastline

A

A coastline made up of a single type of rock all the way

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3
Q

How are headlands and bays formed

A

1) the sea erodes the soft rock of a discordant coastline more easily
2) overtime the softer rock is eroded by hydraulic action and abrasion to form the bay
3) the harder rock is left sticking out in the sea to form the headland
4) sand is deposited in the sheltered bay to form a beach

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4
Q

What processes are cliffs shaped through

A

Erosion and weathering

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5
Q

How does different types of rock create different types of cliffs

A

Soft rock is eroded easily to create a gently sloping cliff
Hard rock is resistant and erodes slowly to create steep cliffs

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6
Q

How are caves, stacks and arches formed

A

A large crack opened by hydraulic action
The crack grows into a cave through abrasion and hydraulic action which makes the cave become larger
Caves brakes through headland forming a natural arch
Arch is eroded and collapses
Tall rock stack is left
Stack is eroded forming a stump

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7
Q

How is a wave cut platform formed

A

Weathering weakens top of cliff
Bottom of cliff eroded by hydraulic action and abrasion creating a wave cut notch
Erosion continues so notch increases and rocks are broken off into the sea
The cliff above notch is unsupported so is unstable
Overhanging cliff collapses
Eroded material falls to base of cliff and some is dragged into the sea with the backwash
Overtime it is eroded further and smoothed into epwave cut platform
Process repeats and cliff retreats backwards

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8
Q

How are waves made

A

Wind blows over the sea
Friction with surface water causes swell
Energy from wind causes water particles to orbit in swell so waves move forward
Circular orbit ovals and waves move faster at top
Begins to break nearing the beach
Waves break and wash up beach
Water runs back down beach

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9
Q

What three things dictate the size of the wave

A

Wind strength
How long wind blows
Length of water the wind flows over

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10
Q

What is the swash

A

Movement of waves onto the beach

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11
Q

What is the backwash

A

Movement of wave back into sea

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12
Q

What is the wave crest

A

The top of the wave

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13
Q

What is the wave trough

A

The base of the wave

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14
Q

What is the wave amplitude

A

The vertical distance from trough to crest

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15
Q

What is the wave length

A

The horizontal distance between two crests

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16
Q

What is the wave frequency

A

Number of waves breaking per minute

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17
Q

What are destructive waves caused by

A

Storms and strong winds

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18
Q

When do destructive waves occur

A

In winter

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19
Q

Why are destructive waves more dangerous

A

They arrive quickly, more violent and strong backwash

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20
Q

What do plunging waves do to the sand

A

Erode the sand and carry it off shore by and underwater rip current

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21
Q

What is a type of destructive wave

A

Plunging waves

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22
Q

What is a type of construction wave

A

Spilling waves

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23
Q

When do constructive waves occur

A

In summer

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24
Q

What are the characteristics of constructive waves

A

Small with a strong wash

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25
What do constructive waves do to the sand
Deposit it to build up the beach as a bank or beach berm
26
What are the two types of waves
Constructive and destructive waves
27
What are the three types of weathering
Mechanical, biological and chemical
28
What is mechanical weathering
When water fills cracks in rocks and freezes which expands and puts pressure on the surrounding rock widening the crack(freeze-thaw action) Over time, crack size increases until block of rock breaks off
29
What is chemical weathering
Water reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks like limestone and chalk Calcium carbonate dissolves and washed away in solution weakening the rock
30
What is biological weathering
When plants roots grow in cracks of the rocks. Animals borrow into weak rocks (rabbits)
31
What are the four transportation methods
Traction saltation suspension and solution
32
What is traction
When larger people and cobbles are rolled along the sea bed
33
What is saltation
Small pebbles are moved when one pebble hits another causing it to bounce. This can cause a chain reaction
34
What is suspension
Fine sediment is carried in the water
35
What is solution
Dissolved material is carried along in solution
36
What are the three types of mass movement
Sliding slumping and rock fall
37
What is mass movement
When rocks are loosened by weathering and erosion and move down the slope under the influence of gravity
38
What is sliding
Large pieces of land slide down the slope quickly without warning
39
What is slumping
When cliffs are made of clay which becomes saturated during heavy rainfall and the land slides down towards the sea
40
What is rock fall
When pieces of rock are continuously weathered and eroded until they separate from the cliff and whole parts fall off
41
What are the four types of erosion
Abrasion attrition hydraulic action and solution
42
What is solution (erosion)
When sea water dissolves material from the rock. Calcium carbonate is dissolved along limestone and chalk coasts
43
What is hydraulic action
Water is forced into cracks in rock which compresses the air. When the wave retreats the compressed air blasts out which can force the rock apart
44
What is abrasion
Loose rocks are thrown against the cliff by waves which wears and chips the rock
45
What is attrition
When loose sediment from the cliffs is swirled around by waves constantly colluding with each other getting worn down into smaller sediment
46
What is longshore drift
Zigzag movement of sediment along a shore caused by waves going up the beach at an angle and returning at right angles
47
What does Lo shore drift do to beach materials
It moves beach materials along the coast
48
What happens when the slow of water slows down
Coastal deposition
49
Why are beaches found in bays
It is a sheltered area so the wave looses energy therefore deposits its load as sediment can no longer be carried forming a beach
50
What are the characteristics of a sandy beach
Flat, shallow, constructive waves and sand dunes
51
What are the characteristics of a pebble beach
Steep, destructive waves and large pebbles
52
How are beach ridges/berms formed
Different tide levels
53
What is a beach
Deposits of sand and shingle
54
How are sand dunes formed
Sand gathers around deposited materials such as wood or rocks at the back of the beach They develop and become more stable when vegetation grows around the embryo dunes (marrom grass) Rotting vegetation makes the sand more fertile and more plants grow in the dunes
55
What is a dune slack
When wind forms a depression in the sand which ponds can form in
56
What is a spit
A long narrow finger of sand jutting out into the sea from the land
57
How are spits formed
Longshore drift transports sand along coast Change in shape of coastline Spit grows into sea Spit exposed to changes in wind and wave direction curves the end of the spit
58
What is the sheltered water behind the spit
Salt marsh where vegetation grows
59
What is a beach bar
A spit that has grown across a bay trapping water(lagoon)
60
How is a beach bar formed
Longshore drift moves sediment along the coastline When it reaches a bay the sediment is deposited across the bay It continues until the bay is fully closed The water that is trapped eventually is filled with deposition
61
What is hard engineering
Total protection of the coastline by maintaining or extending existing sea defences
62
What are the four types of hard engineering
Sea walls Groynes Rock armour Gabions
63
What are sea walls
A concrete wall to reflect the wave back out to sea and absorb their energy
64
Pros of sea walls
Reduce overtopping Effective in reflecting waves which slows down the next wave so it is less powerful Used a promenade which increases tourism
65
Cons of sea walls
Expensive(5000-10000 per m) Ugly Limits beach access
66
What are groynes
Wooden or stone built in beach at right angles to the coast
67
Pros of groynes
Stops longshore drift by trapping sediment building up the beach Creates a wider beach as it slows waves which increases tourism Greater protection from erosion Fairly cheap
68
Cons of groynes
Problems along coast as beaches are starved of sand which increases erosion Unnatural and stops access to beach
69
What is rock armour
Big boulders at base I’d cliff to absorb wave energy and reduce erosion
70
Pros of rock armour
Fairly cheap
71
Cons of rock armour
Unnatural Obstructs access to beach Strong waves can move boulders so need to be replaced
72
What are gabions
Wire cages filled with rocks that are used to build walls at the cliff foot
73
Pros of gabions
Absorb wave energy and reduces erosion rate Fairly cheap Might become covered in vegetation and blend with surroundings
74
Cons of gabions
Ugly Over time the wire cages erode Only lasts 5-10 years before needing replacing
75
What is managed retreat
Doing nothing and allowing the present coastline to change by carrying out no more repairs to old sea defences
76
Managed retreat advantages
Sustainable in long run Saves money Sea can cover land and make new habitats Takes pressure of other area in coastline which reduces flood risk
77
Managed retreat disadvantages
People who live their have to move out which causes distress Buildings are demolished which is costly Loss of agriculture
78
What is coastal management
Controlling the development and change in the coastal zone and planning ahead
79
What are the three types of coastal management
Hard engineering Soft engineering Managed retreat
80
What is soft engineering
Working with nature to help maintain the present coastline
81
What are the three types of soft engineering
Beach nourishment Beach re-profiling Dune regeneration
82
What is beach nourishment
Adding sand or shingle from elsewhere to the beach from local beaches or the seabed
83
Pros of beach nourishment
Creates a wider beach to slow waves abs protect from erosion and flooding Attracts tourism
84
Cons of beach nourishment
Needs constant maintenance as sediment gets washed away by waves Expensive
85
What is beach re-profiling
Artificial re-shaping if a beach using existing material and moving shingle up the beach
86
Pros of beach re-profiling
Wider beach to slow waves and protect against erosion and flooding Tourism
87
Cons of beach re-profiling
Constant maintenance as sediment gets washed away by waves Expensive
88
What is dune regeneration
Restoring existing or creating new sand dunes
89
Pros of dune regeneration
Natural physical barriers between sea and land Cheap, protects wildlife Popular with locals
90
Cons of dune regeneration
Limited to small area that are suitable for sand dunes Maintained often

Geography (5 decks)

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