Coasts π Flashcards
outline a coastal system
open system
inputs - sediment and energy
outputs - sediment washed to sea or another cell
stores - landforms
flows - wind and water transport
inputs in a costal system
sediment
- rivers
- cliff erosion
- longshore drift
- wind
energy
- wind
- waves
- currents
- tides
outputs in a coastal system
sediment
- washed out to sea, deposited further along shore
flows and transfers in a coastal system
erosion
transportation
deposition
wind
LSD
weathering
stores in a coastal system
landforms
- beaches, dunes, spits
negative feedback in coastal system
- beach eroded
- cliffs exposed to wave attack
- sediment eroded
- eroded sediment deposited on beach
- beach grows again
or
- cliff being eroded
- leads to mass movement
- collects at bottom of cliff
- protect base from wave energy
- reduced erosion
or
- cliff eroded
- wave cut platform created
- cliff retreats
- eventually out of reach of waves
- reduced erosion
positive feedback in a coastal system
- beach forms
- slows down waves
- more sediment is deposited (not enough energy)
- beach grows more
sources of energy
- wind
- waves
- tides
- currents
wind
air moving from high to low pressure
responsible for waves and some currents
prevailing wind (consistantly same direction) creates higher energy waves
(than changing winds)
role of wind
source of energy
creates waves and currents
can transport material
agent in erosion - abrasion
waves
created by friction as wind blows over surface of sea
creates circular motion
wave height depends of wind speech and fetch
what is wave refraction?
where waves bend as they approach an indented coastline
- eg a headland
waves approaching headland reach shallower water before waves approaching bay
wave energy becomes concentrated around the headland
waves in bay spread out - less frequent
results in energy concentrated around headland, creates erosional landforms
and constructive impacts in bays, beaches
why do waves break
break as they get close to shore
friction with seabed slows down bottom of waves
motion becomes more elliptical
crest rises and collapses
constructive waves
low frequency
- 6-8 per minutes
long wavelength
low wave height
powerful swash and weak backwash
deposition
destructive waves
higher frequency
10-14 per minute
short wavelength
high and steep height
strong backwash weak swash
erosion
factors affecting wave energy
wind:
- strength
- duration
- fetch (distance)
tides
periodic rise and fall of ocean surface
due to gravitational pull of sun and moon
affects position waves break on beach
high tidal range = energy less concentrated, position wave break varies
low tide range = energy more concentrated on certain areas
NOT caused by wind
spring tides
highest tides
sun and moon in line with earth - stronger gravitational pull
neap tides
lower tides
sun and moon at right angles to earth - weaker pull
currents
general flow of water in one direction
caused by WIND, change in water temperature or salinity
move material along coast
- localised
sources of energy importance
wind most important
creates waves and currents
- localised impacts
tides not generated by wind
- global impacts
low energy coasts
low inputs of energy
small, gentle waves
- light winds (sheltered area)
- short fetch
rate of deposition higher than erosion
creates salt marshes and mudflats
high energy coasts
high inputs of energy
large, powerful waves
- strong winds
- long fetches
rate of erosion higher than deposition
creates rocky landforms, caves, arches etc
sources of sediment (inputs)
- rivers
- cliff erosion
- longshore drift
- wind