Coasts 🌊 Flashcards

1
Q

outline a coastal system

A

open system

inputs - sediment and energy
outputs - sediment washed to sea or another cell
stores - landforms
flows - wind and water transport

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

inputs in a costal system

A

sediment
- rivers
- cliff erosion
- longshore drift
- wind

energy
- wind
- waves
- currents
- tides

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

outputs in a coastal system

A

sediment
- washed out to sea, deposited further along shore

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

flows and transfers in a coastal system

A

erosion
transportation
deposition
wind
LSD
weathering

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

stores in a coastal system

A

landforms
- beaches, dunes, spits

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

negative feedback in coastal system

A
  • beach eroded
  • cliffs exposed to wave attack
  • sediment eroded
  • eroded sediment deposited on beach
  • beach grows again

or
- cliff being eroded
- leads to mass movement
- collects at bottom of cliff
- protect base from wave energy
- reduced erosion

or
- cliff eroded
- wave cut platform created
- cliff retreats
- eventually out of reach of waves
- reduced erosion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

positive feedback in a coastal system

A
  • beach forms
  • slows down waves
  • more sediment is deposited (not enough energy)
  • beach grows more
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

sources of energy

A
  • wind
  • waves
  • tides
  • currents
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

wind

A

air moving from high to low pressure
responsible for waves and some currents
prevailing wind (consistantly same direction) creates higher energy waves
(than changing winds)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

role of wind

A

source of energy

creates waves and currents

can transport material

agent in erosion - abrasion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

waves

A

created by friction as wind blows over surface of sea
creates circular motion

wave height depends of wind speech and fetch

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

what is wave refraction?

A

where waves bend as they approach an indented coastline
- eg a headland
waves approaching headland reach shallower water before waves approaching bay
wave energy becomes concentrated around the headland
waves in bay spread out - less frequent

results in energy concentrated around headland, creates erosional landforms
and constructive impacts in bays, beaches

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

why do waves break

A

break as they get close to shore
friction with seabed slows down bottom of waves
motion becomes more elliptical
crest rises and collapses

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

constructive waves

A

low frequency
- 6-8 per minutes

long wavelength
low wave height

powerful swash and weak backwash

deposition

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

destructive waves

A

higher frequency
10-14 per minute

short wavelength
high and steep height

strong backwash weak swash

erosion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

factors affecting wave energy

A

wind:
- strength
- duration
- fetch (distance)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

tides

A

periodic rise and fall of ocean surface
due to gravitational pull of sun and moon

affects position waves break on beach

high tidal range = energy less concentrated, position wave break varies
low tide range = energy more concentrated on certain areas

NOT caused by wind

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

spring tides

A

highest tides
sun and moon in line with earth - stronger gravitational pull

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

neap tides

A

lower tides
sun and moon at right angles to earth - weaker pull

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

currents

A

general flow of water in one direction
caused by WIND, change in water temperature or salinity

move material along coast
- localised

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

sources of energy importance

A

wind most important
creates waves and currents
- localised impacts

tides not generated by wind
- global impacts

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

low energy coasts

A

low inputs of energy
small, gentle waves
- light winds (sheltered area)
- short fetch

rate of deposition higher than erosion

creates salt marshes and mudflats

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

high energy coasts

A

high inputs of energy
large, powerful waves
- strong winds
- long fetches

rate of erosion higher than deposition

creates rocky landforms, caves, arches etc

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

sources of sediment (inputs)

A
  • rivers
  • cliff erosion
  • longshore drift
  • wind
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
sediment budgets
the balance between inputs and outputs of sediment in a system (difference between them) can be positive (more enters, beach builds) or negative (more leaves, beach retreats) when balanced = dynamic equilibirum disturbed by climate change and human intervention
26
sediment cells
lengths of coastline (between 2 headlands or estuaries) that are closed coastal systems Mostly self contained movements of sediment (Sediment may move in strong waves)
27
how does climate change impact sediment cells?
rising sea levels and more frequent storms = more erosion more inputs of sediment glacial melt = more inputs
28
how does traditional management impact sediment cells?
hard engineering prevent natural processes of erosion reduce outputs of sediment - traps it to build up beaches therefore reduces inputs of sediment down coast eg groynes in Happisburgh
29
how do SMPs impact sediment cells?
focus on individual cells however advance and hold the line can impact inputs and outputs managed retreat and do noting can restore dynamic equilibrium
30
processes of erosion
corrasion solution hydraulic action cavitation attrition wave quarrying
31
corrasion
sediment transported by waves thrown against cliffs smash and rind against rock
32
solution
soluble rocks get dissolved in seawater eg limestone
33
hydraulic action
air in cracks in cliffs compressed by waves crashing pressure caused bits to break off, crack widens
34
cavitation
waves receed, compressed air expands violently creates pressure bits break off, crack widens
35
attrition
rock and sediment in water smash against each other make smaller particles
36
wave quarrying
energy of wave breaking on cliff breaks bits off
37
how does lithology affect cliff erosion?
seaward dipping bedding planes - means loose material can slide down the bedding planes = less stable so more vulnerable landward dipping bedding planes = relatively steep and stable, less vulnerable
38
transportation
solution saltation traction suspension
39
solution
substances are dissolved and carried in water eg limestone
40
suspension
very fine material carried along in water (above seabed) eg silt and clay
41
saltation
larger particles (can't be suspended) bounce along seabed by force of water eg pebbles and gravel
42
traction
very large particles pushed along seabed (rolled) by force of water eg boulders
43
what is deposition
when material being transported is dropped on the coast
44
causes of deposition
happens when sediment load exceed the ability of the water to carry it due to sediment load increases eg landslide water loses energy - friction increases, shallow water, slows - conflicting currents, slows
45
sub aerial weathering
gradual breakdown of rocks in situ weakens cliffs, more vulnerable to erosion - chemical - biological - mechanical. freeze thaw, wetting and drying
46
chemical weathering
breakdown of rocks by changing its chemical composition carbonation - carbon dioxide dissolves in rain to form acid rain - dissolves rocks containing calcium carbonate eg limestone solution - dissolved oxidation - iron minerals in rock react with oxygen and rust = breakdown
47
biological weathering
plant roots growing into cracks, widens animals building burrows
48
mechanical weathering
freeze thaw - happens where temperatures fluctuate around 0 - water enters cracks - freezes as it expands - overtime, weakens and breaks off wetting and drying - rocks that contain clay - gets wet, expands - creates pressure causing bits to break off Salt crystallisation - water collects in cracks - sun causes water to evaporate, leaves crystals - salt crystals bigger and grow = pressure in cracks so break up
49
what is mass movement?
movement of material downhill due to gravity unconsolidated rocks prone to collapse, less friction to hold together heavy rainfall saturates rocks, reduces friction runoff can also move fine sediment - creep - slide - slump - rockfall - mudflow
50
creep
soil particles get wet less friction slowly move downslope
51
landslide
happens when wet, less friction downhill movement of material 'en masse' moves rapidly
52
slump
softer material overlies more resistant material moves downhill creates a curved indented surface
53
rockfall
rocks on a vertical cliff face mechanical weathering, weaken and dislodge rocks large parts breaks off and collect at bottom as scree
54
mudflow
mud on a hill slope rainfall saturated soil, increases pressure and particles heavier sediment flows downhill
55
longshore drift
moves sediment along shore - swash carries sediment up beach at similar angle to prevailing wind - backwash moves sediment back down beach at right angles to shoreline = zig zag movement
56
marine processes
transportation Erosion Deposition
57
sub aerial processes
weathering mass movement
58
eustatic sea level change
rise or fall in sea level caused by a change in the volume of water in ocean basin - global effects
59
causes of eustatic sea level change
climate change/ice melt - increase in temperature - ice sheets melt - increases volume - levels rise - decrease in temperature - more precipitation falls as snow - increased storage in cryosphere - decreased volume - levels fall thermal expansion of water - warmer water expands - levels rise tectonic movements - alters shape of basin - mid ocean ridges, new land formed - displaces water - levels rise
60
isostatic sea level change
rise or fall in sea level caused by vertical movements of the land relative to the sea - effects are local
61
causes of isostatic sea level change
glaciation causing depression of crust - weight of glaciers and ice presses down crust into asthenosphere - levels rise post glacial readjustment - uplift of earths crust as glaciers melt, asthenosphere rebounds - levels fall tectonic activity - causes land to move up or down
62
coastline of emergence
when sea levels fall relative to coast = emergent landforms raised beaches - beach above high tide mark, over time become vegetated marine platforms - exposed wave cut platforms relict cliffs - cliffs above raised beaches, no longer eroded by sea, exposed to weathering
63
coastline of submergence
when sea levels rise relative to coast = submergent landform rias fjords Dalmation Coastine
64
formation of a ria
river valleys are partially submerged wide and deep at mouth, shallower inand much wider than natural river mouth eg Exemouth, River Exe
65
formation of a fjord
drowned glacial valleys eroded by glaciers in glacial times straight and narrow with steep sides very deep eg Sognefjorden, Norway
66
formation of a Dalmatian Coastline
islands parallel to coastline caused by flooded valleys lying parallel to coast ridges at different heights, lower areas flooded and higher left exposed eg Dalmatian Coast, Croatia
67
sea levels over 10,000 years
glacial period, max 18,000 ya - more water stored in cryosphere - sea levels lower temperature increased, started 12,000 ya - ice melted - sea levels rose to current about 130m higher now since 1930, levels rising more - climate change
68
impacts of climate change on sea levels
global warming - human activities, more greenhouse gases increased temperature - more thermal expansion - more ice melt (eustatic)
69
impacts of climate change on coastal areas
warmer tempertures = more frequent and intense storms - damage to coastal ecosystems and settlements rising SLs = more frequent and severe flooding - contamination of bodies of freshwater - damage to settlements - salinisation of soils, crop damage submergence of low lying islands
70
how does feedback help with management?
ICZM aims to restore equilibrium climate change = + feedback needs to be managed
71
chi squared
if critical smaller than calculated = null rejected (there is a significant difference) if calculated smaller = null excepted (no significant difference)
72
impacts of geology on coastal processes
erosion - hard rock (granite) more resistant than soft = discordant coastlines weathering - softer rock/ certain types more vulnerable to weathering - eg limestone and chemical mass movement - soft = more unconsolidated so more saturated when it rains = heavier so mass movement more likely transportation - more sediment to move deposition - more sediment = increased load = more deposition - scree at base of cliffs slows erosion to create deposition
73
impacts of energy on coastal processes
erosion - high energy = more erosion as creates destructive waves - compared to more deposition at low energy weathering - more erosion = more cracks so more vulnerable to weathering mass movement - high energy = more vulnerable as material losened by erosion and weathering transportation - high energy = more movement of sediment deposition - high energy = less deposition, strong backwash - low energy = more deposition as less energy to carry
74
impacts of management on coastal processes
erosion - absorbs wave energy to reduce rates - can increase rates down coast weathering - protected from mechanical - but exposed to chemical and biological mass movement - cliffs more stable as eroded less, reduced risk - but still vulnerable after heavy rainfall, saturation transportation - groynes reduce movement by offshore drift deposition - some forms encourage deposition to protect cliffs and absorb energy - eg beach nourishment
75
impacts of erosion on coastal processes
weathering - creates cracks so more vulnerable mass movement - weakens and loosens material transportation - creates more sediment to move depostion - more sediment removed by destructive waves
76
impacts of weathering on coastal processes
erosion - more weathering = weaker and unconsolidated rocks = more vulnerable mass movement - less consolidated = more likely - means water can infiltrate transportation - create more lose material to be transported deposition - material collects at base of cliffs, slows waves = deposition