Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What are some anthorpogenic factors which are affecting the coast?

A

Tourists, fishing and coastal management

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2
Q

What are some marine factors affecting the coast

A

Acidity, wave type and wave strength

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3
Q

What is offshore?

A

The area beyond the point where waves cease to affect the seabed and activity is limited to depsoition

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4
Q

What is nearshore?

A

Area between low water mark and where the waves break

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5
Q

What is foreshore?

A

Area between high and low tide marks. Between water and the developed line

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6
Q

What is backshore?

A

Area of the beach that extends from the limit of high water marks to dunes of the beach.
This is only affected during high tide

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7
Q

What is the definition of a closed system

A

A system which only transfers energy

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8
Q

What is the definition of an open system?

A

A system which transfers both matter and energy across its boundaries. Having both inputs and outputs.

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9
Q

What are some atmospheric factors affecting the coasts?

A

Wind direction and speed
Extreme weather
Wave strength

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10
Q

What happens when the coastal system is disturbed? What is this called?

A

When disturbed the system self regulates and counter acts the change
This is known as a dynamic equilibrium and negative feedback

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11
Q

What is an equilibrium in the coast?

A

Inputs into the system = outputs of the system

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12
Q

What are the three types of energy systems in a coast?

A

Kinetic energy
Potential energy
Thermal energy

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13
Q

What are the processes in a coast?

A

How energy / sediment is moved / stored

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14
Q

Give an example of a process in the coast

A

Longshore drift

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15
Q

Give 3 examples of stores on the coast

A

Kinetic energy in the waves, nearshore sediment and beaches

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16
Q

What is the output of a coast? Give two examples

A

Outputs: Land forms or loss of energy
Examples: Bars, spits or evaporation

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17
Q

What is the input of a coast? Give two examples

A

Inputs: Energy and sediment
Examples: Kinetic energy, thermal energy and sediment

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18
Q

What is the definition of a system?

A

System: A group of related objects whether physical or human

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19
Q

What are terrestrial factors affecting the coast?

A

Buildings, geology or topography

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20
Q

What is the equation for standard diviation

A

√ (sum of each data set - mean of each data set)^2 / number of values in the data set

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21
Q

How else can winds affect the coast

A

Deflation
Erosion, transportation and deposition can also happen just by the wind

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22
Q

How do tides affect the coast?

A

Tides can deposite sediment
Low and high tide can affect erosion

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23
Q

What affects wave energy

A

Wind speed
Fetch length
The height of the waves

24
Q

What do resultant winds cause?

A

These blow at a 90 degree angle and cause long shore drift

25
Q

What do onshore winds cause?

A

Onshore winds that blow towards the land draws waves towards the coast

26
Q

What is wave action and what does it affect?

A

Wave action is the result of frictional drag by winds moving across the ocean area

27
Q

What factors affect the movement of air?

A

Closeness of air pressure
Earths rotation

28
Q

Why does air move?

A

Due to atmospheric condition of temperature
The friction from this plus the earths rotation causes wind

29
Q

What are winds?

A

Movement of air from high pressure to low pressure to reach an equilibrium

30
Q

How can coastal factors affect the coast?

A

Spatially and temporarily

31
Q

How does geology affect the coast?

A

Hard rock and soft rock affect the rate of erosion

32
Q

How do winds affect the coastline?

A

Prevailing winds cause long shore drift

33
Q

How do ocean currents affect the coastline?

A

When warm they have the chance of surging

34
Q

How do waves affect the coastline?

A

Beach erosion
Beach deposition

35
Q

What is the equation for wave height?

A

0.36√F

36
Q

What are sediment cells divided by?

A

Pyhsical barriers

37
Q

What is wave action generated by?

A

Frictional drag across the sea

38
Q

Define fetch

A

Distance of open water over which a wave has passed

39
Q

What is it called when sand drops from being carried by the winds?

A

Deflation

40
Q

What is the equation for the amount of energy in deep water?

A

P = H^2T

41
Q

The difference between high and low tide is called?

A

Tidal range

42
Q

What is it called when there is no tidal range?

A

Amphidronic point

43
Q

Define lithology

A

Physical and chemical characteristics of rock

44
Q

What are near shore currents divided into?

A

Long shore currents, rip currents and water shore

45
Q

What are the four main parts of a wave?

A

Wave crest
Wave length
Wave height
Trough

46
Q

When does wave refraction happen?

A

When waves come into contact with land forms and bend

47
Q

What are the three main types of waves and how do they happen?

A
  • Spilling waves happen when steep waves break into slowly sloping beaches and water spills gently forward during the break
  • Plunging waves happen when moderately steep waves break into steep beaches and water plunges vertically downwards
  • Surging waves happen when low angle waves break onto steep beaches and water slides forwards but may never break
48
Q

How do waves break?

A
  1. Waves move into shallower water
  2. The water molecules come into contact with the sea floor
  3. The friction causes changes in the speed, direction and shape of waves
  4. Waves begin to slow against the sea floor
  5. Waves begin to steepen as the crest advances
  6. Wave length decreases and eventually the crest overtakes the trough and the wave topples over and breaks
49
Q

Define a tide

A

The periodic rise and fall of the sea surface

50
Q

What forms tides?

A

The gravitational pull between the sun, moon and earth

51
Q

How do spring tides form?

A

When the sun, moon and earth align and their gravitational pull is strongest

52
Q

How do neap tides form?

A

When the sun and moon are at a 90 degree angle and their gravitational pull is at its weakest

53
Q

What are the three main types of waves called?

A
  • Micro (Between 0-2m)
  • Meso (Between 2-4m)
  • Macro (Above 4m)
54
Q

What influences the location of different types of waves?

A

Prevailing winds and sea temperature

55
Q

What does tidal range affect?

A

Where wave action and erosion happen, along with where coastal management is used