Coasts Flashcards
What is a coast?
Area where the land meets the sea
Factors affecting coasts
Waves
Tides
Currents
Geology
Human Activities
Ecosystem Type
Formation of waves
Waves form when energy from the wind blowing across the oceans and seas is transferred to the surface of the water.
How do tides affect coasts?
Tides are the daily alternate rising and falling of the sea level, caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun on the earth. Each coastal area experienced two high tides and two low tides daily, which has significant impacts on the coast.
At high tides, waves erode and transport more sediments away from larger parts of the coasts than at other times.
How do currents affect coasts?
Currents are large-scale continuous movement of water, driven largely by prevailing wind which generally blow in one direction.
Currents carry large amounts of energy and shape the coast through the processes of coastal erosion, sediment transport and sediment deposition.
Closer to the shore, nearshore currents help to shape the coastline. An example is the longshore currents which flow parallel to the coast.
How do geology affect coast?
Geology is the arrangement and composition of rocks found in the area. Rocks may be arranged in layers such as alternate layers of hard and soft rocks. More resistant rocks such as basalt and granite erode slower than less resistant rocks such as limestone and shale. Coastal processes that operate on coasts consisting of different types of rock result in coasts with different coastlines.
How do human activities affect the coast?
Examples of human activities are living, trading, fishing and engaging in recreational activities in these environments. People alter the coastline when they build marinas and port facilities. People also cause pollution in these environments by dumping waste into the water.
How do the ecosystem type affects the coast?
In an ecosystem, plants and animals interact with one another as well as with their environments. The ecosystems of mangroves and coral reefs can reduce the impacts of waves on coasts. As a result, they affect the rate of change of coasts environments. The aerial roots of mangrove help trap sediments and reduce coastal erosion. The trapped sediments can form small islands and extend the coastline further seawards. Coral reefs are natural barriers that help reduce the speed and impact of waves on the coastline.
Factors affecting waves
Wind Duration - The longer the wind blows, the larger the waves are, resulting in greater wave energy
Wind Speed - The faster the wind blows, the greater the wave energy is
Fetch - The greater the fetch is, the more energy the waves have as the wind would have passed through a larger body of water
Characteristics of waves approaching coastlines from oceans
As a wave approaches shallow water near the coastline, it begins to change its shape at a depth which is half of their wavelength. The friction from the interaction with the seabed causes the base of the wave to slow down. However, the top of the wave does not slow down as quickly and causes the height of the wave to increase and wavelength to decrease as it moves into shallow water approaching the coast. Nearest the coastline, the base of the wave stops but the wave becomes steeper and topples over. When a wave curls over on itself onto the coast, it is called a breaker. When the wave breaks and runs up on the beach, it is called a swash. The swash loses energy due to gravity and friction with the land, it then retreats to the sea as backwash.
Constructive waves
They are waves with low energy that are able to deposit materials on a coast. The waves have a strong swash and a weak backwash. Therefore, they break gently over a long distance. As swash is more powerful than backwash, they carry more sediments to deposit on the coast than remove them from the coast. Over time, the coast is built up by the deposited sediments to form sandy beaches with gentle slopes.
Destructive waves
They are waves which break violently on the shore with high energy that can erode a coast. They are common along steep sloping coasts where they break with a great force over a short distance. The waves have a weak swash but a strong backwash, so more materials are removed than are deposited on the coast. Over time, the coast is eroded away.
Wave refraction
It is the process by which the waves change direction as they approach an uneven coastline. The waves converge at headlands due to refraction with greater amount of energy, increasing wave height and erosive energy. This causes more erosion at the headlands. The waves diverge at bays due to refraction with less amount of energy, decreasing wave height and erosive energy. This allows more deposition to occur in bays.
Coastal Processes
Hydraulic action
When the waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. The air is compressed by oncoming waves, exerting a pressure on the joints. As the air is repeatedly compressed, the joints weaken and the rock shatters.
Abrasion
As waves break, sediments carried by the waves such as sand and rock are hurled against the coast. The loosened sediments knock and scrape against the coastal cliffs. This weaken the surface and break down the coast. Over time, the impact from abrasion is powerful enough to undercut a cliff.
Attrition
When rock particles carried by waves hit or rub against one another, they break down into smaller pieces and become smoother and more rounded over time.
Solution
Sea water reacts chemically with water-soluble minerals in coastal rocks and dissolves them. For example, limestone rocks are easily eroded by carbonic acid. When solution of minerals occurs, the rocks are weakened and eventually disintegrate.
Sediment transport
This process involves moving materials along a coast by beach drift and longshore drift, resulting from the waves approaching the coast at an angle. As waves approaching the coast at an angle breaks on the beach, sediments move up the beach as swash and move perpendicularly down the beach as backwash. The resultant zig-zag movement along the beach is called the beach drift. When waves approach the coast at an angle, they generate longshore currents in the nearshore zone and transport sediments along the shore. Longshore currents are ocean currents that flow parallel to the coast. The combined effect of sediment movement caused by beach drift and longshore currents is known as the longshore drift.
Sediment deposition
Sediments eroded from the coast are transported away and deposited elsewhere. When the wave energy decreases, the waves are unable to carry the sediments anymore. As such, larger sediments are deposited first, followed by smaller sediments. Deposited sediments vary in type and size, resulting in a variety of beaches. The location of the coasts affects the deposition of sediments. In areas where the coast is protected from the strong winds, destructive waves are less common. Hence, fine sediments are deposited along the coast with calm water such as the mangrove coasts in deep bays sheltered by headlands. On the other hand, coarser sediments are likely to settle in more exposed areas where there is higher wave energy to remove fine sediments.
Formation of cliffs and shore platforms
The waves repeatedly pound against a rocky coast. This weakens the rocks and causes lines of weakness to form on the rock surface. Hydraulic action and abrasion may erode lines of weakness to form a notch. As erosion proceeds, the notch is deepened to form a bigger, hollow space called a cave. Further erosion by the waves will cause the roof of the cave to collapse, forming a steep cliff. As erosion continues, an overhanging cliff is formed. Eventually, the overhanging cliff collapses and materials will be deposited at the foot of the cliff. Some materials are carried by the waves and thrown against the base of the cliff, causing further erosion. Overtime, the cliff retreats inland and a gently sloping platform appears at the base of where the cliff used to be. The platform is a shore platform and it is submerged during high tides.
Formation of bays and headlands
The coastline has bands of less resistant and more resistant rocks that alternate. The less resistant rocks erode faster than more resistant rocks. The less resistant rocks erode away to form wide indented coasts, called a bay. The more resistant rocks extend into the sea as they erode less, forming headlands.
Formation of caves, arches and stacks
Within headlands, some rocks may be less resistant to erosion than other rocks. These parts of the headlands will be eroded more quickly, especially by hydraulic action and abrasion. Waves attack lines of weaknesses (such as joints & faults) at the base of the headland and undercut it. The continuous action of waves forms a cave at the area that is hollowed by the wave action. Caves may develop on each side of the headland. Erosion may eventually join caves together leaving a bridge of rock known as an arch above the opening. After a period of time, the roof of the area may collapse to form a stack. A stack is a pillar of rock in the sea left behind after an arch collapses.
Characteristics of beaches
A beach is a zone of sediment deposition, usually formed from loose sand, gravel, pebbles, broken shells and corals, or a mixture of different materials. They may come from longshore drift, constructive waves, cliff erosion and river deposits. Changes in either wave energy or source of materials can affect the size of materials to change over time. Factors affecting slope of beaches is the grain size of sediments. Shape of beaches is affected by waves, tides and currents. For example, constructive waves help deposit beach materials and build up beaches further during calm weather. Destructive waves erode and remove beach materials during stormy weather.