coasts Flashcards
describe the different types of erosional processes
- hydraulic action is when a wave advances on a coastline air can become trapped and compressed either in joints and faults in the rock. the high pressure causes the cracks to be forced apart and fracture so pieces of rock break off.
- solution/corrosion is when weak acids in seawater dissolve alkaline rock such as limestone
- attrition is when wave action cause rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, wearing each other down so that they become more rounded and smaller
- abrasion is when sediment is dragged up and down the coastline, eroding and smoothing rocky surfaces
- wave quarrying is when breaking waves hit the coastline exerting pressure which scoops out loose unconsolidated material
describe longshore drift
- waves hit the coastline at an angle determined by the direction of the prevailing wind
- the waves push sediment up the beach at this angle as the swash
- due to gravity, the waves carry this sediment back down the beach at backwash perpendicular to the coast
- over a period of time, sediment is transported in a zigzag fashion along the coast
what are sediment cells?
- sections of coastlines where the movement of sediment is contained within a closed system which are often bordered by two headlands
- the inputs within the sediment cell come from erosion of the sea bed or land such as cliff erosion
- there is little or no movement of sediment between the cells
- human activity can disrupt the natural system’s equilbirium
what factors affect coastal erosion?
- the rate and type of erosion is related to the type of wave reaching the coast. destructive waves are the largest and most powerful with a strong backwash which removes sediment
- the more resistant the rock such as hard rocks like granite the slower it erodes whereas softer rocks like clays and shales erode more quickly
- if there is a beach present on the coastline the beaches will absorb wave energy and reduce the impact of the waves on the cliff. therfore if coastla mangement strategies like groynes are implimented this can trap sediment and prevent sediment from accumualting at other regions along the coast thus increasing the erosion rates there.
- subaerial processes such as the processes of weathering and mass movement will weaken cliffs and create piles of debris which can lead to increased abrasion and corrasion
- increase in erosion rates if there are greater geological structures like faults, joints and cracks which create weaknesses that can be exploited by erosive processes as well as increasing the rock face surface area which further increases rates of erosion
outline the devleopment of barrier beaches
- a barrier beach is usually formed as an extension of a spit
- longhsore drift transports sediment along a coastline until there is a change in the shape of the coastline causing deposition of material which forms a spit, typically in a bay
- as the spit extends a barrier beach forms which can be colonised by vegetation which stabilises the sand and traps further sediment
describe the formation of caves, arches, stacks and stumps
- along a discordant coastline ther are bands of hard and soft rock which are perpendicular to the coasltine.this allows for the formation of erosional landforms like headlands and bays
- faults in the headland are exposed to erosional process such as hydraulic action and abrasion leading to the crack widening and a small cave forming
- occasionally, wave action and weathering causes joints in the cave rood to erode forming a blow hole
- the cave will expand due to marine and subaerial erosion causing it to erode through the other side of the headland to create an arch
- the arch widens until it is unable to support itself so the roof of the arch becomes unstable and collapses forming a stack which is detached from the mainland
- sub-aerial and marine erosion can attack the stack causing it to form a stump
describe the formation of a wave-cut platform
- when waves erode a cliff, the erosion is concentrated between high tide line the cliff begins to undercut, leading to the formation of wave-cut notch
- as the wave-cut notch deepens due to marine erosion like hydraulic action and sub aerial weathering, the cliff face becomes unstable and falls due to gravity in mass movement
- this leads to the retreat of the cliff face and leaving a wave-cut platform
describe the formation of headlands and bays.
- along a discordant coastline the rock layers are perpendicular to the coastline
- erosional processes attack the areas of softer, less resistant rock whilst the harder, more resistant rocks aren’t as vulnerable to erosion thus remain protruding from the coastline
describe the formation of a spit
- the pervailing wind pushes waves up the beach at an angle as the swash and when the waves retreat back down the beach at a right angle as the backwash they travel perpendicular. this is known as longshore drift which enables the mass transport of sediment
- when the mainland experiences a change in the shape of the land the sediment is deposited and builds up causing an extension of the mainland known as the spit
- if there is a change in the direction of the prevailing wind the spit can form a hook. due to the hook creating a sheltered area then a salt marsh should be created as salt-tolerant vegetation colonises
explain the different types of weathering
- freeze thaw weathering is when water enters the cracks and freezes causing the water to expand by 10 percent in volume which exerts pressure on the rock causing cracks to develop which makes its vulnerable to weathering
- crystallisation is when sea water evaporates salt crystals are left behind. these crystals exerts pressure on the rock whcih forces cracks to widen
- carbonation is when carbon dioixde in the air creates weak carbonic acid which reacts with calcium carbonate rocks to create calcium bicarbonate that can easily be dissolved
- oxidation is when rock becomes exposed to air through cracks and fissures their iron will be oidised into a ferric state, which is known as rusting
Describe the process of mass movement
- rockfalls occur on sloped cliffs, mostly vertical cliff faces. It leads to the formation of a scree (a build up of rock fragments on the base of a slope)
- landslides occur when heavy rainfall causes water to enter into joint and beddping plains in the cliff face reduces friction and causes a block of intact rock to move down the cliff face rapidly
benefits and drawbacks of groynes
groynes trap sediment which is transported by longshore drift to build up the beach on the updrift side of the groyne. larger beaches provide a more effective buffer as it absorbs the waves energy
- groynes involve less investment from local councils as they only cost £400 per meter
- they create larger beaches which attracts tourism as there is more space for activities
- longshore dirft being halted deprives areas downwind of the sediment which increases the erosion there
benefits and drawbacks of a sea wall
- concrete structures with recurved faces that reflect the wave energy back out to sea to minimise the erosional processes on the cliff face
- visually unaesthetically pleasing
- they are expensive as they cost £5000 per metre
- they can be used as a promenade which atracts tourism
- they are durable with a lifespan of 75 years
benefits and drawbacks of rock armour/rip rap
large rocks and boulders are placed at the base of a cliff in order to deflect wave energy and reduce the erosional impact on the cliff
- plants can establish in the rocks which icnreases biodiversity
- they are relatively cheap as they only cost £1000 to £3000
- the rocks are soruced from elsewhere which disrupts the antural local geology
benefits and drawbacks of beach nourishments
involves adding sand and shingle to the beach from elsewhere in order to build up the beach so that it can absorb the wave energy
- creates a wider beach which can attract toursits for more activities
- it is a cheap method originally however requires ongoing investment as sand has to be continuously added