Coastal Systems & Landscapes Flashcards
What is an Open System, and why is the coast one?
There are inputs & outputs of both energy and matter e.g. sediment from rivers & eroded rock into the ocean.
What is a Sediment Cell and why are they useful?
It is a stretch of a coastline, usually bordered by 2 headlands, that is considered a closed system as the movement of sediment is mainly self-contained. They are useful as they form the basis for coastal management.
What is a Positive Feedback?
It’s when a flow causes the system to experience further change which continues the disruption of the equilibrium e.g. groynes trap sediment, therefore depriving areas further down the coast. Which can lead to erosion.
What is a Negative Feedback?
It’s when a flow stabilises the system, allowing it to maintain its dynamic equilibrium e.g. mass-movement will lead to a scree slope forming. And as this increases in size, it will inadvertently protect the cliff, slowing erosion.
What is Dynamic Equilibrium?
It is when there’s a state of balance within a system e.g. constructive waves will create a steep beach. This will lead to destructive waves that will redistribute the sediment which in turn encourages constructive waves due to the lower gradient.
What is a Landform?
It’s an area which is created as a result of weathering, erosion, transportation and deposition which are all affected by climate and geology
What is a Landscape?
It’s when a combination of landforms create an area with clear characteristics
What is a Closed System?
There are inputs & outputs, but only of energy
What is an Isolated System?
There are no inputs or outputs
What are the 4 sub-zones of the Littoral Zone?
Offshore, nearshore, foreshore & backshore
What characteristics does a High Energy Coast have?
Destructive waves, long fetches, high rates of erosion, caves, arches. stacks, stumps, cliffs and wave-cut platforms. Steep beach profile in SR, but flattens out in the LR
What characteristics does a Low Energy Coast have?
Constructive waves, shorter fetches, high rates of deposition, spits, bars, beaches, sand dunes and salt-marshes. Gentle beach profile in SR, but builds up in LR
What are the characteristics of Destructive Waves?
Responsible for erosional processes, high frequency (10-15 waves per minute), steep & high causing plunge and the swash is less powerful than the backwash
What are the characteristics of Constructive Waves?
Low frequency (6-9 waves per minute), long & low causing spilling, backwash less powerful than the swash
How are Waves formed?
As air moves across the water, frictional drag disturbs the surface and forms ripples/waves. In the open sea, there is orbital motion. But at the coastline, there is horizontal movement.
What factors affect Wave Energy?
Strength of the wind (pressure gradient), duration of the wind (long wind = powerful waves) and the fetch (distance of open water over which the wind blows).