coastal systems + landscape Flashcards
how many system terms are there?
8
what’s the definition of the system term ‘input’?
material or energy moving into the system from outside
what’s a coastal example for the system term ‘input’?
Precipitation and wind
what’s the definition of the system term ‘output’?
material or energy moving from the system to the outside
what’s a coastal example for the system term ‘output’?
ocean currents, rip tides, sediment transfer + evaporation
what’s the definition of the system term ‘energy’?
power or driving force
what’s a coastal example for the system term ‘energy’?
energy associated with flowing water, the effects of gravity on cliffs + moving air (wind energy transferred to wave energy)
what’s the definition of the system term ‘stores / components ‘?
the individual elements or parts of a system
what’s a coastal example for the system term ‘stores / components’?
beach, sand dunes + nearshore sediment
what’s the definition of the system term ‘flows / transfers’?
the links or relationships between components
what’s a coastal example for the system term ‘flows / transfers’?
wind blown sand, mass movement processes + longshore drift
what’s the definition of the system term ‘dynamic equilibrium’?
a state of balance within a constantly changing system
what’s a coastal example of the system term ‘dynamic equilibrium’?
constructive + destructive waves. constructive waves build up a beach steeper which encourages destructive waves that plunge rather than surge. destructive waves redistribute sediment offshore which reduces the beach sediment
what’s the definition of the system term ‘positive feedback’?
where a flow / transfer leads to increase or growth
what’s a coastal example of the system term ‘positive feedback’?
- Groynes trap sediment, depriving areas further down-drift of beach replenishment + this can exacerbate erosion
- seawalls have the same effect by transferring high energy waves elsewhere along the coast
what’s the definition of the system term ‘negative feedback’?
where a flow / transfer leads to decrease or decline
what’s a coastal example of system term ‘negative feedback’?
when the rate of mass movement and weathering exceeds the rate of foot-cliff erosion and a scree slope is formed. over time, this apron of material extends up the cliff face protecting the cliff face from subaerial processes. this leads to a reduction in the effectiveness of weathering and mass movement
what are the 2 two feedback mechanisms?
- major determinant of what landscape is formed
- as well as geological, climatic + maritime processes
describe the term landform?
- geomorphic features on the surface of the earth
- ranging from large scale features such as plains, plateaus + mountains to minor features like hills, valleys and alluvial fans
describe the term landscape?
- part of the earth surface that can be seen from one area
- consists of geographic features / landforms that are characteristics of a particular area
how is wave energy formed?
- formed by wind
- when there’s a big difference in pressure
what are the factors affecting wave energy?
- strength of wind
- duration of wind
- the fetch
how does wind strength affect wave energy?
the strength of wind is determined by the pressure gradient
how does the duration of wind affect wave energy?
the longer the wind blows, the more powerful waves will become
how does the fetch affect wave energy?
the distance of open water over which the wind blows. the longer the fetch, the more powerful the waves
how are waves formed?
1- the water becomes shallower + the circular orbit of the water particles changes to an elliptical shape
2- the wavelength + velocity both decrease, and the wave height increases - causing water to back up from behind and rise to a point where it starts to topple over (break)
3- the water rushes up the beach as swash and flows back as backwash
what are the 2 wave types?
- destructive
- constructive
what are the characteristics of destructive waves?
- short wavelength
- weak swash
- strong backwash
what are the characteristics of constructive waves?
- long wavelength
- strong swash
- weak backwash
how is the high tide effect created?
- the moon pulls the ocean towards it creating an outward bulge in the oceans closest to the moon
- directly on the other side of the earth away from the moon creating a high tide effect
how is the low tide effect created?
- the water is drained from the other areas of the oceans creating a low tide effect
what is the tidal range?
the difference in metres between high and low tide and it’s influenced by the position of the moon + sun
what tidal range is spring tide?
the highest tidal range
what tidal range is neap tide?
the lowest tidal range
how are rip currents formed?
- when a series of plunging waves cause a temporary build up of water at the top of the beach
- water tries to return to the sea, but it gets forced below the breaking waves + is very strong
where are rip currents usually formed?
they are usually formed between 2 sand banks
what are the characteristics of high energy coastlines?
- stretches of Atlantic facing coast
- powerful most of the year
- rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition
what are the erosional landforms of high energy coastlines?
- headlands
- wave cut platforms
- cliffs
what are the characteristics of low energy coastlines?
- waves are less powerful
- coast sheltered from large waves
- rate of disposition exceeds the rate of erosion
what is the 5 steps of wave refraction?
1- as waves reach the coastline they are affected by friction caused by the sea bed
2- out in deep water the energy of the wave is identical all the way along as it approaches but it changes as it nears land if the coastline has an irregular shape
3- as the wave nears the land’s edge the depth of water decreases, waves get higher + steeper, velocity decreases as friction affects the speed
4- the remaining part of the wave is faster than in front of the headland , so the wave continues with its speed and energy
5- however it’s hindered by being dragged slower by the wave affected by the headland and it begins to wrap around the headland and becomes more parallel to the coast
what are the 2 types of coastline?
- concordant
- discordant
what is a concordant coastline?
- a ‘pacific’ or ‘concordant’ coastline
- a geological trend is parallel to the coastline
what is a discordant coastline?
- ‘Atlantic’ or ‘discordant’ coastline
- geological trend is 90 degrees to coastline
what is a sediment cell?
a stretch of coastline usually bordered by two prominent headlands, where the movement of sediment is more or less contained
what are the inputs of sediment cells?
inputs are sources and these are primarily derived from the river, coastal erosion and offshore sources such as bars or banks
what are the transfers of sediment cells?
the transfers are flows which involve longshore drift together with onshore and offshore processes such as rip currents
what are stores of sediment cells?
the stores are sinks which include the beach, sand dunes and offshore deposits (bands and bars)
what type of system are sediment cells?
they are often determined by the topography + shape of the coastline which directs the movement of the sediment within the cell, for this reason they are considered to be closed systems
what is the role of sediment cells?
sediment is largely recycled within them rather than having significant amounts of new inputs + outputs, the boundaries of the sediment cells tend to be headlands and peninsulas which act as natural barriers to stop the further movement of the sediment
what happens to sediment if the wind changes direction?
if the wind changes direction and the movement of the oceans currents also change then it can affect some of the sediment under high-energy conditions and can cause some of the sediment to move off-shore into long term ocean floor stores of sediment. within each of the sediment cells there are smaller sub cells
where are some of the sediment cells in the UK?
- St Abb’s head
- Flamborough head
- The Wash
- River Thames
- Selsey Bill
- Lands End
what are the 6 sources of sediment ?
- glaciers
- wind
- longshore drift
- offshore
- rivers
- cliff erosion
how are glaciers a source for sediment ?
the ice blocks hold + carry sediment which is released when ice melts
how is wind a source for sediment ?
sand dunes are semi-dynamic as they can be both a sediment source and a sink
how is longshore drift a source for sediment ?
sediment is transported from one area (output) to another (input)
how is offshore a source for sediment?
bars and banks hold sediment which is moved by waves + storm surges
how are rivers a source for sediment ?
an active river has more erosion especially in high rainfall areas. sediment is deposited In the mouth of the river and moved by waves, tides and currents
how is cliff erosion a source for sediment?
it’s very important in areas of soft / unconsolidated rock eg: Holderness coast and at 10m / year and the southwest has granite so it erodes at a very slow rate
what are the 3 main types of weathering?
- physical
- biological
- chemical
what is physical weathering?
It occurs when internal pressures are exerted on rock as a result of changes in the physical structure within its mass
what is biological weathering?
when living organisms can contribute to the weathering of coastal rocks through the activity of plants + animals
what is chemical weathering?
both rain and seawater contain chemicals that can react with chemical compounds in the rock, altering its structure
what are some examples of mechanical (physical) weathering?
- frost shattering (freeze thaw)
- salt crystallisation
- wetting and drying
how does frost shattering affect weathering?
water enters a crack or joint, as it freezes it expands by 10% exerting pressure on the rock which forces the crack to widen. fragments collect at the base of a cliff as scree which are then used by the sea in costal erosion
how does salt crystallisation affect weathering?
salt water from the sea evaporates leaving the salt crystals behind which grow over time adding stresses to the rock, salt can also corrode the rock
how does wetting and drying affect weathering?
rocks rich in clay expand as they get wet and contract as they dry leaving the outside layers weak + vulnerable to breaking away. there is a constant cycle of wetting and drying at the coast
what are the 3 things that affect chemical weathering?
- carbonation
- oxidation
- solution