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Geography (Physical) - 2. Coastal Systems and Landscapes > Coastal Systems and Processes > Flashcards

Coastal Systems and Processes Flashcards

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1
Q

What are the 5 sources of sediment in a coastal system? - Systems and Processes

A

Rivers, cliff erosion, long shore drift, wind, offshore sources.

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2
Q

Explain how rivers and cliff erosion are sources of sediment - Systems and Processes

A

Rivers transport sediment and deposit it at the mouth of a river. This comes from river banks and other sections of drainage basins. Cliff erosion on coastlines with soft rock falls into the ocean, as has been seen on the Holderness Coast.

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3
Q

Explain how longshore drift and wind are sources of sediment - Systems and Processes

A

Sediment is transported from one section of coast as an output to another section of coast as an input, usually in the same direction as prevailing winds. Winds can transport sediment in glacial or desertified areas, depositing it in coastal regions.

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4
Q

Explain how offshore sources can be sources of sediment - Systems and Processes

A

Beach nourishment schemes can lead to the growth of beaches, rising sea levels have caused coarse sediment to be deposited on the South Coast of the UK, storm surges can transport sediment.

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5
Q

What aspects of a coast can be described as sediment sources/transfers/sinks? - Systems and Processes

A

Sources: rivers, cliffs, offshore sources, wind, littoral drift
Transfers: littoral drift, rip currents, wind, aeolian processes
Sinks: beaches, sand dunes, sand bars

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6
Q

What are aeolian processes? - Systems and Processes

A

Aeolian processes are erosion, transportation and deposition of sediment by wind.

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7
Q

What is a sediment cell? - Systems and Processes

A

A sediment cell is the distinct coastal area which recycles sediment within it. They are classed as closed systems.

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8
Q

What is a positive beach sediment budget? What is a negative beach sediment budget? - Systems and Processes

A

A positive beach sediment budget is where inputs of sediment exceed outputs, meaning that the beach will extend in height/length/width. A negative beach sediment budget is where outputs exceed inputs.

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9
Q

What are sediment sinks? - Systems and Processes

A

Sediment sinks are areas outside of individual sediment cells where sediment can be permanently lost to from a sediment cell.

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10
Q

Give examples of how sediment can be lost from a beach - Systems and Processes

A

Waves and currents can transfer sand offshore, longshore drift can remove sand from a beach system, sand can be blown inland.

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11
Q

Give examples of how sediment can be gained by a beach - Systems and Processes

A

Sediment can be transported into a beach system by longshore drift, sediment can be moved shorewards by waves (constructive) and currents, dune erosion can return sand to a beach system, wind can transport sand along a coastline.

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12
Q

What are the 4 sections of a beach’s structure? List them in order from coast to sea - Systems and Processes

A

A beach’s structure is made up of backshore, foreshore, nearshore and offshore.

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13
Q

Define a coast’s backshore and nearshore - Systems and Processes

A

Backshore is the area between the high water mark (area water reaches at high tides) and the limit of marine activity.
Foreshore is the area between the high water mark and the low water mark (area water reaches at low tides). Most important area for marine processes.

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14
Q

Define a coast’s nearshore and offshore - Systems and Processes

A

Nearshore is the area between the low water mark and the point where waves no longer affect the land beneath them.
Offshore is the area beyond the point where waves cease to impact upon the seabed.

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15
Q

How are air pressure differentials generated? - Systems and Processes

A

Air pressure differentials are generated by the sun and the input of thermal energy. Warm air is generated at the equator, creating hot and humid conditions (low pressure). This air rises and then circulates, sinking further away from the equator, creating high pressure systems.

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16
Q

How are winds related to pressure differentials? - Systems and Processes

A

Winds are related to pressure differentials as wind is the movement of air from high to low pressure.

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17
Q

How does wind form waves? - Systems and Processes

A

Wind (air moving from high to low pressure) blows across water, forming ripples, and causes water below the surface to move in an orbital motion. As water reaches the shore, the base of the wave slows due to friction with the seabed and the wave becomes elliptical in motion, before breaking down on itself.

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18
Q

What happens to cause waves to break? - Systems and Processes

A

Waves break due to friction with the seabed as they move closer to the shore, changing its motion from orbital to elliptical. This increases the wave’s height and decreases its length, meaning the wave topples over on itself.

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19
Q

What is the fetch of a wave? How does this impact the wave’s energy? - Systems and Processes

A

A wave’s fetch describes the distance a wave travels over open water, with the longer the fetch of a wave, the greater its energy.

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20
Q

What 3 factors impact the energy of a wave? How do these 3 factors impact the energy of a wave? - Systems and Processes

A

The 3 factors impacting wave energy are pressure differentials between high and low pressure air, the duration of the wind and the distance of the fetch. The higher each of these aspects, the greater the wave’s energy will be.

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21
Q

Describe the process of wave refraction. Why does it happen and what does it result in? - Systems and Processes

A

As a waves approach a headland, they refract to converge on headlands and diverge away from bays. This is due to the fact that headlands protrude from the coast, therefore absorbing most waves. This results in headlands being eroded at the sides whilst bays are built up.

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22
Q

What creates tides? - Systems and Processes

A

Tides are created by the gravitational pull from the Moon, with the Earth bulging due to gravity as it is orbited by the Moon. Land moves much less from this as it is solid, yet liquid is pulled towards the moon, creating tides.

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23
Q

What is spring tide? How is this formed? - Systems and Processes

A

Spring tides happen when the Sun, Moon and Earth are aligned, creating maximum gravitational pull and therefore high tidal ranges (high high tides and low low tides).

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24
Q

What is neap tide? How is this formed? - Systems and Processes

A

Neap tides happen when the Moon is at a right angle to the Sun, meaning gravitational pull is lower on the Earth. This reduces the tidal range (lower high tides and higher low tides).

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25
Q

What is the crucial difference between spring tide and neap tide? - Systems and Processes

A

Spring tide results in a significantly higher tidal range than what occurs under neap tide due to the enhanced gravitational pull.

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26
Q

What 3 type of currents provide energy? - Systems and Processes

A

Energy is provided by 3 types of currents: rip currents, longshore currents and upwelling.

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27
Q

How do rip currents operate? How does this create energy at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

Rip currents operate by struggling to wash away from the shore over sand bars on the seabed. This forces these strong currents to form an intense and powerful current washing through small gaps in these bars.

28
Q

How do longshore currents operate? What are the impacts of this energy at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

Longshore currents approach the coast with waves at an angle due to the strength of prevailing winds, resulting in a flow of water running parallel to the coastline. This moves water and transports sediment along a coastline.

29
Q

How does upwelling operate? What are the impacts of this energy at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

Upwelling is the upward movement of cold water in oceans towards the surface, replacing warmer surface water. This creates a cold ocean current, transporting sediment and forming part of global oceanic circulation currents.

30
Q

How are global currents an example of negative feedback? - Systems and Processes

A

Global currents see warmer water from the equator drifting towards the poles, cooling and sinking as it travels there. These cold currents then flow back to the equator, causing them to warm and rise again, negating the initial change.

31
Q

What are the characteristics of low energy coastlines? (Waves, deposition, erosion, landforms, etc.) - Systems and Processes

A

Low energy coastlines have much less powerful waves with greater rates of deposition of sediment than erosion. This causes the creation of deposition landforms like beaches, spits and bars.

32
Q

What are the characteristics of high energy coastlines? (Waves, deposition, erosion, landforms, etc.) - Systems and Processes

A

High energy coastlines have strong, powerful waves (usually formed by large fetch), with greater levels of erosion than deposition. They tend to exhibit headlands and bays, as well as wave cut platforms.

33
Q

What is the sediment budget? What can be considered losses and gains? - Systems and Processes

A

The sediment budget details losses and gains of sediment from a sediment cell. Gains can be seen as coastal erosion or sediment brought in by rivers or offshore sources, whilst losses can be seen as sediment stored in offshore sinks.

34
Q

What are marine processes? - Systems and Processes

A

Marine processes are processes at the coast involving the sea, such as waves, tides and longshore drift. They take place involving and below the water.

35
Q

What are sub-aerial processes? - Systems and Processes

A

Sub-aerial processes are processes that occur above the water level. They slowly break down the coastline or allow sudden movements or erosion to occur more easily.

36
Q

Describe the processes of hydraulic action and wave quarrying - Systems and Processes

A

Hydraulic action is when the sheer force of water crashes into cliffs, repeatedly compressing small pockets of air (CAVITATION), which weakens and fragments sections of the cliff.
Wave quarrying is the breaking of destructive waves causing cavitation and hydraulic action to occur.

37
Q

Describe the process of corrasion - Systems and Processes

A

Sand and pebbles carried from the seabed are thrown by waves against cliffs and rocks as the waves break. This chips away at the rock.

38
Q

Describe the processes of abrasion and attrition - Systems and Processes

A

Abrasion is when transported material is dragged along a shoreline, wearing away rocky surfaces with a sandpapering effect.
Attrition is the gradual wearing down of rock fragments as the collide and scrape against each other. This rounds these rocks and makes them smaller.

39
Q

Describe the process of solution - Systems and Processes

A

Solution is when weak acids in water dissolve alkaline rocks such as chalk and limestone.

40
Q

What is a concordant coastline? How can this impact landforms at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

A concordant coastline is a coastline with alternating bands of soft and hard rock parallel to the coast. This will tend to form cliffs as the cliffs erode at the same rate as the rest of the rock, whilst coves can also be formed once the soft rock begins to be eroded.

41
Q

What is a discordant coastline? How can this impact landforms at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

A discordant coastline is where alternating bands of hard and soft rock are perpendicular to the coast. This causes the soft rock to erode faster, creating headlands, bays, arches, caves, cracks and stumps.

42
Q

How can the dip of the rock strata impact the formation of cliffs at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

Where rocks dip inland, steeper cliffs tend to form, whereas rocks dipping towards the coast tend to form more gently sloping cliffs.

43
Q

How can the presence of a beach impact erosion at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

A beach being present at the coast absorbs wave energy and protects the foot of cliffs. Therefore if no beach was present, the coast would be more vulnerable to erosion.

44
Q

How can coastal management schemes impact the amount of erosion at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

If coastal management is in place, erosion is reduced or mitigated. For example, groynes built to prevent longshore drift mean areas beyond are deprived of sediment, exacerbating the risk of erosion for that particular cliff.

45
Q

How can wave energy and fetch impact the amount of erosion at the coast? - Systems and Processes

A

The greater a wave’s fetch, the greater its energy will be, meaning that it will have larger erosive powers than low energy waves. This means that erosion at the coast will be increased.

46
Q

Describe the transportation processes of traction and saltation - Systems and Processes

A

Traction is the rolling of heavy, coarse sediment along the seabed that is too heavy to be picked up and carried.
Saltation is the bouncing along of slightly lighter rocks which are still too heavy to remain within a water’s flow.

47
Q

Describe the transportation processes of suspension and solution - Systems and Processes

A

Suspension is the carrying of smaller, finer particles of sediment within the flow of the water.
Solution is the dissolving of sediment particles in slightly acidic water, meaning that they can be carried and precipitated elsewhere.

48
Q

What factors affect the type of transportation used? - Systems and Processes

A

Transportation is affected by velocity of water and particle size.

49
Q

What is coastal deposition? When does it occur? - Systems and Processes

A

Coastal deposition is the dropping of sediment or material when the velocity of the water or wind falls below a critical value, meaning that coarse material can no longer be transported.

50
Q

How can high energy and low energy environments result in different types of beaches? - Systems and Processes

A

High energy environments can easily transport away sand and sediment, leaving behind shingle beaches of coarse material, whilst low energy environnements often see clay particles dropping to the seabed and forming mudflats.

51
Q

What is weathering? What are the 3 types of weathering? How does it differ from erosion? - Systems and Processes

A

Weathering is the breaking down of rock in its original position whilst erosion is the gradual wearing away of rock. Weathering comes in the forms of chemical, physical and biological weathering.

52
Q

Describe how the mechanical weathering process of wetting and drying works. What type of rock does this impact? - Systems and Processes

A

Wetting and drying causes rocks containing clay to expand when they get wet and contract as they dry. This repeated process causes cracking of rocks.

53
Q

Describe the mechanical weathering process of Freeze-Thaw. Where does this tend to occur? - Systems and Processes

A

Water enters a crack when it rains and freezes in colder weather, expanding its volume by 10%. This repeats over time, fragmenting the rock as cracks begin to widen. This happens in temperate climates with a large range of temperatures throughout the day.

54
Q

Describe the mechanical weathering process of crystallisation. Where in the UK does it tend to occur? - Systems and Processes

A

Saline water exists on rock surfaces, leaving behind salt crystals as this water evaporates. This process repeats, leaving more salt over time. This stresses the rock and forces it to crack and break. This tends to occur in the South rather than the North.

55
Q

Describe the mechanical weathering process of exfoliation. Where does this tend to occur? - Systems and Processes

A

Exfoliation occurs when there is a dramatic change in heat, causing mineral rich rocks to naturally split into layers. This often happens in deserts due to their hot days and cold nights.

56
Q

Describe the chemical weathering process of oxidation. What type of rock does this affect? - Systems and Processes

A

Oxidation occurs when oxygen reacts with iron in rocks, forming iron oxide (rust). This compound is weaker than iron rocks and therefore more vulnerable to weathering and erosion. This affects iron-rich rocks.

57
Q

Describe the chemical weathering process of carbonation. What example of this is there in Yorkshire? - Systems and Processes

A

Carbonation occurs when rainwater absorbs atmospheric CO2, creating slightly acidic Carbonic Acid. This reacts with Calcium Carbonate in rocks (chalk and limestone), to form calcium bicarbonate. This then dissolves over time. Seen at Malham Cove.

58
Q

Describe the chemical weathering process of hydrolysis - Systems and Processes

A

Hydrolysis occurs when mildly acidic water reacts with minerals to create clays and dissolve salts, degrading the rock and making it weaker than the original rock.

59
Q

Describe the biological weathering processes of roots. What rocks are more affected? - Systems and Processes

A

Plants grow on a cliff, with roots burrowing into small cracks on a cliff face. The growth of these roots cause a widening in cracks, breaking the rock apart. Limestone tends to be more affected by this as it has bedding planes.

60
Q

Describe the biological weathering process of animals burrowing. What example is there of this? - Systems and Processes

A

Birds and animals dig burrows into cliffs, breaking the rocks apart. This can be seen in the example of puffins at the Farne Islands.

61
Q

Describe the biological weathering process of decaying organic matter - Systems and Processes

A

When organic matter decays, it creates an acid, which weakens and degrades the rock.

62
Q

What is mass movement? What can influence mass movement? - Systems and Processes

A

Mass movement is the downhill movement of material under the influence of gravity, transferring energy and sediment.
Mass movement can be influenced by rock type, rock strength, tectonic movement, rainfall, vegetation and angles of cliffs.

63
Q

Describe the mass movement process of rockfall. At what speed does this occur? - Systems and Processes

A

Rocks on a steep cliff face are vulnerable to repeated freeze-thaw weathering. Large blocks of material fragment away from the cliff, collecting as scree at the base. This is a fast process of mass movement.

64
Q

Describe the mass movement process of a landslide. How fast is this process? - Systems and Processes

A

Heavy rainfall lubricates a bedding plane in the rock, reducing friction. This means that the rock can naturally move downwards (or under the influence of tectonics) in blocks.

65
Q

Describe the mass movement process of a mudflow. How fast is this process? - Systems and Processes

A

Rain fills pores and space in soil on muddy hills, increasing pressure. The mud becomes heavier due to being wet, meaning it behaves as a liquid and flows downhill in a rapid movement. This is a very fast form of mass movement.

66
Q

Describe the mass movement process of slumping - Systems and Processes

A

Material on a curved surface (often involving permeable rock overlying impermeable rock) has water percolate through the permeable rock. This forms a layer of water and creates pressure, meaning the saturated area moves downhill.

67
Q

Describe the mass movement process of soil creep - Systems and Processes

A

Soil becomes wet on a hill following rainfall. The rainfall lubricates the particles, reducing friction and increasing mass, meaning that they slowly move downhill and stop moving when the soil dries out.

Geography (Physical) - 2. Coastal Systems and Landscapes (6 decks)

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