Coastal Systems And Landscapes Flashcards
Define what a coast is
The part of the land adjoining or near the sea
Define:
Landform
A natural feature of the earth’s surface
Define:
Landscape
All the visible features of an area of land, often considered in terms of their aesthetic appeal
What are some landforms caused by deposition?
Give an example of a depositional landscape
Beach Spit Sand dunes River estuary Hooked end Marsh
Example: Blakeney Point- Norfolk
What are some landforms caused by erosion?
Give an example of an erosional landscape
Caves Arch Stack Stump Headland Cliffs
Example: Old Harry- Dorset
Why are coastal areas regarded as open systems?
Coastal areas are regarded as open because inputs of energy and sediment are often received e.g. sediment and wave energy, and outputs are transferred (flow) e.g. sediment transported by longshore drift, across the boundary of the system (section of coastline)
What does it mean by dynamic equilibrium in the coastal system
When the inputs and outputs within a coastal system are in balance, they remain in a relative state of equilibrium. If inputs change this leads to a change in processes, stores and outputs until a new equilibrium is reached. This is referred to as dynamic equilibrium.
Give an example of dynamic equilibrium
A higher rate of cliff erosion followed by deposition puts more material on the beach; this subsequently slows down the rate of cliff erosion as the extra material on the beach absorbs the wave energy and protects the cliff line. This is negative feedback. Eventually the sediment will be eroded and the coastline will become relatively stable
Examples of inputs to the coastal system
Human activities Changes in sea level Wind Waves Sediment Biogenic inputs Currents Tides
Examples of coastal processes
Erosion
Longshore drift
Deposition
Examples of coastal outputs
Arches Stacks Beaches Sand dunes Spits Cliffs Salt marshes Loss of wave energy Headlands
What factors affect the the coastal inputs, processes and outputs?
Sediments (shingle, sand and mud)
Relief (height and steepness of land)
Rocks (strength, jointing, bedding)
Describe and explain one factor that is likely to influence wave height
The fetch is the length of ocean the wind blows over. This is likely to influence wave height as a larger distance means more energy is transferred to the water so the larger the wave height will be. There is more time to transfer as much energy as possible to the wave which increases the wave height.
What is wave refraction?
Wave refraction occurs when waves approach an irregular coastline (curved or indented). As the waves approach the irregular coastline they curve and distort.
What would a diagram showing wave refraction look like?
It would show a headland separating two bays. As each wave nears the coast it drags in the shallow water. This causes the wave to become higher and steeper with a shorter wavelength. The part of the wave in deeper water moves forward faster, causing the wave to bend. The wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland, causing greater erosion.(cliffs, caves and arches). Where waves diverge they lose power and drop sediment (beaches)
What are tides?
The periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea. Caused by the gravitational attraction to the moon and the sun on oceans. This creates and outward bulge in the oceans closest to the moon and another on the other side of the Earth away from the moon.
What is a spring tide?
When the moon is between the earth and the sun the combined gravitational pull creates the biggest bulge of water and the highest tide. Height tides at highest and low tides at lowest. Tidal range is at its greatest
What is a neap tide?
When the Earth, moon and sun form a right angle, their gravitational pulls interfere with one another and this is when neap tides occur, giving the lowest high tides and the highest low tides (smallest tidal range)
What is the tidal range?
The vertical distance between low and high tides is called the tidal range. Spring tides have the highest tidal range whilst neap tides have the smallest tidal range
How does the tidal range influence coastal processes?
It controls the vertical distance over which erosion and deposition occur.
Affects the length of time that the littoral zone is exposed to sub aerial weathering.
Speed of incoming and outgoing tides effects coastline
How does the shape of the coast influence the tidal range?
Funnelled coast e.g Severn Estuary- as the tide advances it is concentrated in the narrowing space. This causes height to rise and produces a tidal bore.
Tidal ranges high in laces in British Isles giving a wide zone of wave attack resulting in wide wave cut platforms.
What is positive feedback?
A process in which an initial change will bring about an additional change in the same direction.
What are features of a constructive wave?
Low frequency (6-8 per minute) Stronger swash than backwash so material is deposited up the beach Sloping beach Long wavelength Low energy
What are features of a destructive wave?
Tall waves- steep gradient Short wavelength Steep beach Stringer backwash than swash Sediment taken away High frequency (10-14 per minute) High energy
Why are waves important?
Waves are the most dominant factor causing change in the coastal zone- they are responsible for erosion, transportation and deposition
What causes waves?
Created by wind blowing over the surface of water, this creates ‘drag’ which results in waves
Why do waves break?
As the wave approaches shallow water, the base comes into contact with the ocean bed. The resulting friction causes the base to slow down and the wave starts to break (translators waves-energy moves in a forward motion).
What affects wave energy?
Fetch
Wind strength- weather conditions
Time- length of time the wind blows for
Features of a high energy coastline
Significant erosion Long fetch Destructive waves Strong tidal currents Frequent on-shore winds Substantial transportation of sediment
Features of a low energy coastline
Gentle tidal currents Constructive waves Deposition of sediment Less frequent storm events Short fetch
What are the sources of coastal sediment?
Rivers- fine grained silts, clays and sands bring sediment from the land to the coast. May form salt marshes and deltas
Biogenic inputs- the skeletons and shells of marine organisms
Cliffs- produces large amounts of material for beach building due to erosion by the sea
Sea- tides and waves bring sediment shore wards. May build offshore bars or build up the beach.
What is a sediment cell?
A length of coastline within which the movement of sediment is largely self contained
What processes operate in a sediment cell?
Erosion
Deposition
Transportation
How many sediment cells are there in the uk?
Eleven
Name a specific example of a sediment cell in the UK
Flamborough Head to The Wash
How are sediment cells separated from each other?
Well defined boundaries such as headlands and large stretches of deep water