Coastal Systems and Landscapes Flashcards
What is a system
Set of interrelated components working together towards a process
What are the main sources of energy in coastal systems
Wind
Waves
Currents
Tides
State the differences between constructive and destructive waves
Constructive:
- higher wavelength
- short height
- low frequency
- powerful swash, weak backwash
- net material gain
Explain wave refraction
- Friction with sea floor when waves at an angle
- curved coastline increases refraction
- increases erosion at headland
- increases wave frequency in bay
Explain longshore drift
Waves approaching beach at 45 degrees, flow of water parralel to shore transporting sediment.
What are rip currents
Strong currents moving away from shore
- Sea waves piled up along coastline
- runs parallel, then flows into breakzone
What are tides
Periodic rise and fall of sea level by gravitational pull of the moon
Tidal range - difference between high and low tide.
What is a spring and neap tide
Spring - greatest difference between high and low tide - moon and sun at 90 degree angle to earth
Neap - lowest difference between high and low tide - moon, sun and earth form a line
Compare high and low energy coastlines.
High energy coastlines:
- high wave energy
- high levels of erosion - higher than rate of deposition
- headlands, cliffs, wave cut platforms
Atlantic coastlines as example
low energy coastlines:
- beaches and spits
- baltic sea as example
What are the 4 main types of marine processes and give examples
- Erosion - hydraulic action, wave quarrying, abrasion (corrasion), attrition, solution (corrosion)
- transportation - Traction, Saltation, Suspension, Solution, Littoral Drift.
- sub-aerial weathering - mechanical, biological, chemical
- mass movement - landslides, rockfall, mudflows, rotational slumping, runoff
Explain the formation of a Saltmarsh
Sheltered shorelines, often at river estuaries. Flocculation of particles. Hallosere - plant succession
Name the types of sea level rise
Eustatic - Global change - volume of water or shape of basin - changing climate (ice melting / thermal expansion)
Isostatic - local change - movement of land relative to the sea - uplift / depression, subsidence of land (drying saltarsh), tectonic plates
What are submergent and emergent coastlines
Submergent (transgressive shorelie) - land becoming inundated due to rise of sea levels.
Emergent (regressive shoreline) - land exposed by falling sea levels
Name some landforms of submergent and emergent cosstlines.
Submergent:
- Rias
- Fjords
- Dalmation coastlines
Emergent:
- Raised Beaches
- Marine Platforms
Explain coastal management
Provide protection against erosion and flooding.
Examples - stabalise beaches against LSD, protect salt marshes, stabilise sand dunes