Coastal Processes And Landforms Flashcards
(43 cards)
Backwash
the movement of water from a broken wave as it runs down a beach returning to the ocean
Beach nourishment
Taking the sand from the sea and putting it back on the beach to widen and replenish the beach
-one severe storm will wreck everything
Beach reshaping
- sand dunes+cliffs=natural defence
- dissipate wave energy
- protect the land behind the sand dunes
- stable by plants+fences
- cheap+effective
- easily damaged by humans
Cliff
Formed by the action of waves on rock
Erode soft rock, leaving the durable rock behind
Cave
Waves encounter a weak spot in the cliff, wearing away the rock
Creating a small opening, which is soon enlarged into a cave
Gorge
Some caves can be hundreds of metres long
Waves enter long caves wear away the roof, causing it to collapse
Arch
Waves erode the back of a cave
Penetrate right through the headland producing an arch
Headland
Harder rock that can resist the energy of destructive waves longer
High, rocky outcrops of land
Bay
Softer parts of a coastline wear away
Headlands become bays
Stack
Soft rock of arches is eroded by destructive waves
Rock above arches eventually falls into the sea leaving behind stacks
Beaches
Most common depositional landform
Formed by constructive waves carrying material (sand, pebbles, broken shells) and depositing them on shore.
Sand dunes
Dry sand carried by the wind
The grains get trapped or may collect in areas sheltered from wind
Sand piles up over time creating sand dunes
Blowout dunes
Sand dunes that have gradually moved further inland, covering roads, car parks, paddocks and plants .
Due to plants being removed which means nothing is holding the dunes together
Spit
Long, curved landform built up at the mouth of a river
River carries soil and rock downstream and then the material is deposited at the river mouth causing a spit
Tombolo
Permanent connection between the island and the mainland
Waves curve around an island close to shore and deposit a bar of sand or other sediment on the lee side of the island
Lagoon
Stretch of calm water behind a spit
Mouth of river moves over thousands of years forming a lagoon
Groynes
- most frequently used
- help build up material on beach
- short life span
- reduce loss of sediment
- right angle to beach
Sea walls
- vertical/sloping structure
- stop erosion
- don’t absorb wave energy - max impact
- temporary
- not aesthetically pleasing
Rock armour (rip rap)
- large boulders
- permeable
- cheaper + longer lasting
- unappealing can reduce recreational value
Break waters
- artificial offshore structure
- protect harbours
- prevents direct impact of waves onto shore which prevents beach erosion
Destructive waves
- stronger backwash
- take material from land
- high energy waves
- can erode
Constructive waves
- stronger swash
- deposit material on land
- less powerful
- transport material
Swash
the movement of water in a wave as it breaks onto a beach
Hydraulic action
the erosion that occurs when the motion of water against a rock surface produces mechanical weathering