Coastal Processes Flashcards

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1
Q

What factors affect wave size and energy?

A
  • fetch
  • strength of wind
  • duration of wind
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2
Q

What is fetch?

A

How far a wave has travelled

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3
Q

What are the 2 types of waves?

A

Constructive and Destructive

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4
Q

What is swash?

A

Water flowing up the beach

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5
Q

What is backwash?

A

Water flowing down the beach

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6
Q

Strength of swash and backwash on a destructive wave?

A

Weak swash and Strong backwash

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7
Q

Strength of swash and backwash on a constructive wave?

A

Strong swash and Weak backwash

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8
Q

What are the 2 types of weathering?

A

Freeze-thaw and biological weathering

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9
Q

What is freeze-thaw?

A
  • Water enters a crack and freezes.
  • This causes the crack to widen
  • this repeats until the rock splits
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10
Q

What is biological weathering?

A
  • Plant roots get into small cracks
  • Roots grow and the cracks widen
  • This causes small pieces of rocks to break away
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11
Q

What is mass movement?

A

A large downward movement if rocks and other materials

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12
Q

Types of mass movement

A
  • Rock fall
  • Mudflow
  • Landslide
  • Rotational slip
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13
Q

What is Rock fall?

A

Bits of rock fall of the cliff face

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14
Q

What is Mudflow?

A

Saturated soil falls down a slope

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15
Q

What is landslide?

A

Blocks of rock slide downhill

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16
Q

What is rotational slip?

A

saturated soil slumps down a curved surface

17
Q

What are the 4 types of erosion?

A
  • Hydraulic action
  • Attrition
  • Abrasion
  • Solution
18
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

Force of water hitting the bed and banks of a river and breaking it away

19
Q

What is attrition?

A

Rocks knock against each other making them smaller and more rounded

20
Q

What is abrasion?

A

Rocks grind along the bed and banks of a river causing them to wear away

21
Q

What is solution?

A

When water dissolves certain types of rocks eg. chalk and limestone

22
Q

What are the 4 types of transportation?

A
  • Solution
  • Suspension
  • Saltation
  • Traction
23
Q

What is solution?

A

When minerals in rock are dissolved and transported as solution (not visible)

24
Q

What is suspension?

A

Small particles like clay and silt are transported in the water

25
Q

What is saltation?

A

Small rocks or pebbles are bounced along the sea bed

26
Q

What is traction?

A

Pebbles and larger materials are rolled along the sea bed

27
Q

What is longshore drift?

A

The movement of materials along a coastline by waves

28
Q

What is prevailing wind?

A

The most occuring wind direction

29
Q

What is deposition?

A

When a river loses energy and material is dropped/left behind

30
Q

Factors leading to deposition?

A
  • Waves slow down and lose energy
  • Shallow water
  • Sheltered areas eg.bays
  • Little or no wind