Coastal Management Flashcards

1
Q

Swell

A

Movement of the sea in rolling waves that do not break.

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2
Q

Fetch

A

The distance travelled by waves across open water.

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3
Q

Swash

A

The rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave.

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4
Q

Backwash

A

The motion of receding waves.

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5
Q

Constructive Waves

A

Low energy waves.

They have a strong swash and a weaker backwash. This means sand is more likely to be deposited on the beach.

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6
Q

Destructive Waves

A

High energy waves.

Have a stronger backwash which means they are able to erode the beach and carry sand offshore.

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7
Q

Sand Dunes

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: a ridge of sand

How it’s formed: wind

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8
Q

Spits

What it is

A

longshore drift that forms a ridge of sand that extends from land to open water

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9
Q

Tombolo

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: sand that grows out from mainland and joins with an island
How it was formed: spit

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10
Q

Cave

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: eroded rock

How it was formed: wave energy

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11
Q

Stack

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: pillar of rocks

How it was formed: when rocks falls into the ocean

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12
Q

Headland

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: narrow, high land coming out from a coastal cliff into the sea
How it was formed: from rocks

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13
Q

Coastal lagoon

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: a swamp at the back of a beach

How it was formed: water gets pushed back into it then can’t escape because the buildup of sand

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14
Q

Bay

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: broad, curved indentation in the coastline

How it was formed: erosion overtime

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15
Q

Beach

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: sandy area on the zone known as a berm

How it was formed: waves deposit sand on the berm

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16
Q

Coastal Dune System

What it is and how it’s formed

A

What it is: Sand and gravel deposits within a marine beach. (Beach berms, frontal Dunes, dune ridges, back Dunes)
How it’s formed: deposited waves.

17
Q
Erosional or depositional?
• sand Dunes
• spits
• tombolo
• cave
• stack
• headland
• rock platform
• coastal lagoon 
• bay
• beach
A
  • sand Dunes - depositional
  • spits - depositional
  • tombolo - depositional
  • cave - erosional
  • stack - erosional
  • headland - erosional
  • rock platform - erosional
  • coastal lagoon - depositional
  • bay - depositional
  • beach - depositional
18
Q

Tides
• development
• impact

A

Development: caused by the gravitational interaction between the Earth and the Moon.
Impact: flooding, development of coast swamps

19
Q

Longshore drift
•How it works
• It’s impact on coastal areas

A

How it works: the wave direction approaches the beach at an angle, then gets washed back into the ocean according to gravity.
Effects in coastal areas: can break down sea walls

20
Q

SHEEPT

A
S - social
H - historical
E - economic 
E - environmental
P - political
T - technological
21
Q

Short term changes in coastal areas

A

Erosion, waves, high tide

22
Q

Long term changes in coastal areas

A

Destruction of land, rise in sea levels

23
Q

Importance of coastal environment

A

Protection to the land, recreational

24
Q

Managing coastal areas

A

Grounds, rock and sea walls, boardwalks and signage