Coastal Management Flashcards
Swell
Movement of the sea in rolling waves that do not break.
Fetch
The distance travelled by waves across open water.
Swash
The rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave.
Backwash
The motion of receding waves.
Constructive Waves
Low energy waves.
They have a strong swash and a weaker backwash. This means sand is more likely to be deposited on the beach.
Destructive Waves
High energy waves.
Have a stronger backwash which means they are able to erode the beach and carry sand offshore.
Sand Dunes
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: a ridge of sand
How it’s formed: wind
Spits
What it is
longshore drift that forms a ridge of sand that extends from land to open water
Tombolo
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: sand that grows out from mainland and joins with an island
How it was formed: spit
Cave
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: eroded rock
How it was formed: wave energy
Stack
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: pillar of rocks
How it was formed: when rocks falls into the ocean
Headland
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: narrow, high land coming out from a coastal cliff into the sea
How it was formed: from rocks
Coastal lagoon
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: a swamp at the back of a beach
How it was formed: water gets pushed back into it then can’t escape because the buildup of sand
Bay
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: broad, curved indentation in the coastline
How it was formed: erosion overtime
Beach
What it is and how it’s formed
What it is: sandy area on the zone known as a berm
How it was formed: waves deposit sand on the berm