Coastal Landscapes Flashcards
What is a system?
A system is a set of interrelated objects comprising of stores and flows that are connected to form a working unit.
What is an open system?
An open system has inputs and outputs of energy and matter accross the system boundaries.
What is a closed system?
With inputs and outputs of energy accross the system boundaries, but no input or output of matter.
What is an isolated system?
No inputs or outputs of energy or matter accross the system boundaries.
What is equilibrium?
When inputs and outputs are balanced and the system is stable.
What is dynamic equilibrium?
Wheh the inputs and outputs stay balanced through various negative feedback loops.
What is negative feedback?
When changes are met with responces that restore the imbalance and lead to a state of equilibrium.
What is positive feedback?
When changes occur that result in responces that move the system further away from equilibrium.
What is a sediment cell?
A stretch of coastline and its associated nearshore area within which the movement of coarse sediment is mainly self contained.
Is a sediment cell as closed or open system?
Sediment cells are regarded as closed systems in terms of coarse sediment. However they are most likely not completely closed as some sediment may transfer due to changing wind directions and currents.
How many sediment cells are there?
In England and whales there are 11 sediment cells, the boundaries of there sare determined by large physical barriers such as headlands. There are also a large number of smaller sub-cells.
What physical factors can affect coastal systems?
Wind, Waves, Tides, Geology and Currents
What are geomorphic processes?
Natural mechanisms of weathering, erosion and deposition that result in the modification of the surgical materials and landforms at the earths surface.
What is geomorphology?
The study of the physical features of the surface of the earth and their relation to its geological structures.
What are waves?
Waves are the transfer of energy through the water by wind exerting a frictional drag on the oceans surface.
What is a current?
The transfer of water from one location to another. They are driven by wind, water density differences and tides.
What do waves represent?
A major input of kinetic energy into the coastal system, also posses potential energy, by virtue of the waters height above the trough. This energy allows work to be done.
What is the crest of a wave?
The highest point of a wave.
What is the trough of a wave?
The lowest point of a wave.
What is wavelength?
The average distance between successive wave crests.
What is waveheight?
The vertical distance between a trough and the crest.
What is wave velocity?
The speed at which the wave travels.
What is wave steepness?
The ratio of wave height to wave length.
What is wave period?
The average time between successive waves.
What is wave frequency?
The average number of waves per minute.
What is wave power?
The square of wave height times wave period, measured in kW of energy per meter of wave front.
Swell wave characteristics?
Long wavelength, gentle gradient, long wave period (up to 20s), generated by distant winds blowing in the open ocean.
Storm wave characteristics?
Short wavelength, steep gradient, short wave period, generated by local winds.
Why do waves break?
When waves enter shallow water, friction causes the front of the wave to slow. The rear of the waves catches up to the front, increasing wave height and decreasing wave length.
The base of the wave also slows more than the top causing it to break from the circular motion.
When the wave depth is less than 1.3 times the wave height, the wave becomes unstable and breaks.
What are spilling waves?
Steep waves breaking gently on to sloping beaches, water spills gently forward as the wave breaks.
What are plunging waves?
Moderately steep waves breaking into steep beaches, water plunged down vertically as the crest curls over.
What are surging waves?
Low angle waves breaking into steep beaches, the wave slides forward and may not actually break.
What are constructive waves?
Waves that have a stronger swash than backwash, and so move material up the beach, building it up and increasing the gradient.
What are destructive waves?
Stronger backwash than swash, comb material down the beach reducing the gradient. Material may collect in a breakpoint or offshore bar.
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
low height, long wavelength, gentle steepness, long period, low frequency (6-8/min), long fetch, swash stronger than backwash, creates steeper beaches as material is moved up the beach.
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
High height, short length, steep, short period, high frequency (12-14/min), short fetch, backwash stronger than swash, creates features such as bars and breakpoints.
Where does wave refraction occur?
Around headlands and bays and irregular shaped coastlines.
How does wave refraction occur?
Whem one side of a wave front enters shallower water it is slowed by friction earlier than the other side. This means that the wave front is travelling at a different speed and so the wave bends (Refracts).
Where is wave energy concentrated?
Headlands becuase the wave front ‘wraps around’ them whereas energy is dissipated in bays.
What is wave energy dependent on?
Wind strength, wind duration and fetch.
What is the fetch?
The distance of open water over which the wind has blown to generate waves.
How is maximum wave height calculated?
H = 0.36 x square root of F
What are tides?
The periodic rise and fall in sea level, caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.
What is a spring tide?
When the moon, earth and sun are aligned in a straight linse, so the gravitational pulls are strongest. This leads to very high tides and very low tides, occurs 2 times a month during full and new moons.
What is neap tide?
When the earth, moon and sun are aligned at 90 degrees and the gravitational pulls are acting in different directions. This results in less extreme tidal ranges.
What is tidal range?
Vertical distance between high and low tide.
What is macro-tidal?
More than 4m range
What is meso-tidal?
2-4m range
What is micro-tidal?
Less than 2m range.
What two factors affect tidal ranges?
Coastal shape and position in lunar cycle
What are currents?
A major input of kinetic energy into the coastal system, occur at local and global scales. Currents represent the flow of ovean water.
Why do rip currents play an important role?
They play an importnat role in the transport of coastal sediment. They aslo modify shore profile by creating cusps, which help to perpetuate the rip current, channeling flow through a narrow neck.
How are rip currents formed?
They are caused either by tidal motion or by waves breaking at right angles to the shore. A cellular motion is generated by differing wave heights parallel to the shore.
How fast and far do rip current slow?
They can flow at 8km/h, but often do not travel far from the shore, once the current travels through the line of breaking waves, it can disperse sideways and quickly lose its power.
Are ocean currents bigger or smaller than rip curents?
Ocean currents are on a much large scale.
How are ocean currents created?
By the coriolis effect and convection
How are ocean currents set in motion?
By movements of winds across the oceans surface.
Wha are ocean currents particularly important in doing?
Distributing heat from the equatorial oceans to the high lattitude oceans, therby helping to maintain global atmospheric equilibrium.
Where do warm water currents usually move from and to?
Usually from the western side os oceans to the eastern side, bringing warm onshore currents to western facing coastlines.
Where do cold water currents usually move from and to?
From east to west and move more offshore
When looked at globally, what do ocean currents create?
Huge circulations of water, known as gyres.
What is differential erosion?
The proces of which adjacent rock types, of differing levels of resistance are eroded at different rates.
What three components determine the characteristics of rock?
Lithology, structure and dip.
What is lithology?
The physical structure and chemical composition of the rocks.
What is the lithology of clay?
Weak lithology with little resistance to erosion, weathering and mass movement, this is due to the unconsolidated nature of the rock, weak bonds that join the individual particles.
What is the lithology of basalt?
Dense interlocking crystals lead to a highly resistant lithology.
What is the lithology of limestone?
A strong physical lithology, with tightly bonded particles, creating a cery resistant rock but a weaker chemical lithology which is vulnerable to solution in weak acid (corrosion, erosion and carbonation weathering)
What is structure?
Structure refers to the properties of individual rock types such as jointing (cracks), bedding (horizontal layers), and faulting. It also realtes to the permiability of a rock.