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Geohazard Finals > Coastal Hazards > Flashcards

Coastal Hazards Flashcards

1
Q

the strip of land bordering the sea or ocean along a continent or an island. It is the zone affected by wave action.

A

coast/shore

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2
Q

This marks the seaward limit of the landmass, which is permanently exposed to wave action. Marks the boundary between the sea and land.

A

coastline/shoreline

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3
Q

chief agents shaping the coastlines

A

Waves, currents, tides and winds

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4
Q

It is between the low-tide breaker line and the low-tide
shoreline

A

Nearshore

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5
Q

This refers to the zone between high tide and low tide. It is under water during high tide. It is the surf zone.

A

Foreshore

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6
Q

it is the part of the shore between the high tide and the highest water level, which can only be reached by exceptional storm waves. Its sea bed is strewn with shingle and pebbles.

A

Backshore

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7
Q

are areas where tectonic forces deform and uplift the land. They are usually rugged and irregular, with beaches sometimes being restricted to coves and inlets.

A

Active shoreline

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8
Q

are areas with little to no tectonic activity, commonly resulting in a
relatively straight coastline with flat-lying terrain.

A

Passive shoreline

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9
Q

The outer margins of the continents, where continental crust
transitions to oceanic crust

A

Continental margins

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10
Q
  • are geologically inactive regions located some distance from plate boundaries.
  • relatively wide and are sites where large quantities of sediments are deposited.
  • comprises features such as the continental shelf, continental slope, and continental rise
A

Passive Continental Margin

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11
Q
  • are located along convergent plate boundaries, where oceanic lithosphere is being subducted beneath the leading edge of a continent
A

Active Continental Margin

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12
Q

Another important process that affects the nature of shorelines is the relative movement of the shoreline either ________ or __________.

A

Seaward or Landward

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13
Q

The periodic rise and fall of sea level is known as _________ and is caused by the spinning motion of the Earth, combined with the gravitational interaction between the Earth, Moon, and Sun.

A

Ocean Tides

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14
Q

Refers to the difference in sea level between high and low tides.

A

Tidal range

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15
Q

occurs when the Moon and Sun periodically line up such that their gravitational effects reinforce one another.

A

Spring Tides

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16
Q

occurs when the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun are at right angles which tend to cancel their tidal effects on one another.

A

Neap tide

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17
Q

Three main tidal patterns exist worldwide, namely;

A
  • Diurnal (diurnal=daily)
  • Semidiurnal (semi=twice)
  • Mixed tidal pattern
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18
Q

Characterized by a single high tide and single low tide each tidal day

A

Diurnal tide pattern

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19
Q
  • exhibits single two high tides and two low tides each tidal day
  • Common along the Atlantic coast of the United States
A

Semidiurnal tide pattern

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20
Q
  • Similar to semidiurnal pattern except that it is characterized by a large inequality in heigh water heights, low water heights, or both.
  • there are usually two high and two low tides each day, with high tides of different heights and low tides of different heights
  • prevalent along the Pacific coast of the United States and in many other parts of the world
A

Mixed tidal pattern

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21
Q

are strong localized currents during high tide formed by the surface of the sea sloping towards the shore which generates mechanical energy that forces water to funnel up into inlets and river channels.

A

Tidal currents

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22
Q

involve the physical movement of water molecules from one location to another. Ocean currents are driven by various forms of energy, and like all things in motion, currents flow from an area of high energy to one of lower energy.

A

Ocean currents

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23
Q

are large-scale currents in the open water near the surface of the sea which are driven mainly by winds blowing consistently in the same direction.

A

Surface currents

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24
Q

are formed in response to differences in ocean temperature and salinity. Cooler and more saline water is relatively dense which causes it to sink and flow toward areas where water is less dense.

A

Density currents

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25
Q

transports energy through water such that water
molecules move or vibrate in a circular manner.

A

Water waves

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26
Q

e is the depth where water molecules are no longer affected by the passing wave. It is equal to about one-half of the wave’s wavelength (distance between successive crests).

A

Wave base

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27
Q

Factors that determine size and energy of waves:

A
  • Wind energy
  • Duration of wind
  • Fetch
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28
Q

True or False: The faster the wind speed, the greater the wave energy.

A

True

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29
Q

water from a breaker washing upon a beach at whatever angle the breaker approached shore.

A

Swash

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30
Q

swash water retreating back under the influence of gravity.

A

Backwash

31
Q

Backwash takes the _________ path, direct to the sea, not an oblique angle as taken by swash.

A

shortest

32
Q
  • Stronger swash and weaker backwash.
  • Occurs on gentle-sloping coasts.
  • Deposits materials on the beach more than it removes.
A

Constructive Waves

33
Q
  • Stronger backwash and weaker swash.
  • Occurs on steep-sloping coasts.
  • Removes (erodes) materials on the beach more than it
    deposits.
A

Destructive Waves

34
Q

is an ocean current that flows parallel to the shore
and is caused by large swells (series of waves) sweeping into the
shoreline at an angle and pushing down the length of the beach in
one direction.

A

Longshore Current

35
Q

As the wave continues toward shore, this causes a progressive decrease in velocity along the length of the wave, forcing it to bend in a process called

A

Wave refraction

36
Q

can travel farther inland than the normal waves

A

Storm surge

37
Q
  • Large waves caused by the sudden mid/under sea displace of a large volume of water
  • These are caused by large undersea/coastal or landslides, explosive mid-sea volcanic eruptions, calving, or even meteorite impacts.
A

Tsunami

38
Q

Coastlines evolve over time due to the erosion and deposition
from breaking waves. This interaction between waves and a landmass can cause the shoreline to slowly move landward, a process referred to as

A

Shoreline retreat

39
Q

4 main sources for beach sediment:

A
  • Local cliffs and promontories
  • The offshore zone
  • Calcareous sand and shell fragments from coral and mollusc debris
  • Local river bedload material
40
Q

are elongate deposits of sediment which parallel the shore and are separated from the mainland by open water, lagoons, tidal mudflats, or saltwater marshes.

A

Barrier Island

41
Q

Long narrow ridges of sand and shingle which project from the coastline into the sea.

A

Spit

42
Q

These are depositional landforms by which an island becomes attached to the mainland by a spit or bar.

A

Tombolos

43
Q

These are formed when sand deposited off the shore dries out and blown out to the back of the beach.
* Usually needs:
* Large tidal range
* Broad intertidal zones
* Large supply of sand

A

Coastal Dunes

44
Q

are wetlands that form as rivers empty their water and sediment into another body of water, such as an ocean, lake, or another river. Although very uncommon, they can also empty into land.

A

Deltas

45
Q

two major ways of classifying deltas

A

influences/processes
shape

46
Q

There are four main types of deltas classified by the processes that control the build-up of silt

A
  1. Wave-dominated delta
  2. Tide-dominated delta
  3. Gilbert deltas
  4. Estuarine delta
47
Q

Deltas with triangular or fan shape are called ________ deltas.

A

arcuate (arc-like)

48
Q

Stronger waves form a _______ delta, which is more pointed than the arcuate delta, and is tooth-shaped.

A

cuspate

49
Q

a rock, sandbar, or other feature lying beneath the surface of the water (six fathoms or less beneath low water)

A

Reefs

50
Q

underwater structures made from calcium carbonate secreted by
corals

A

Coral reefs

51
Q

most coral reefs are less than _________ years old

A

10,000

52
Q
  • In 1842, ____________ set out his theory about
    the formation of atoll reefs
  • He theorized uplift and subsidence of the Earth’s
    crust under the oceans formed the atolls
A

Charles Darwin

53
Q

Darwin’s theory sets out a sequence of 3 stages
in Atoll formation, which are:

A
  • FRINGING REEF
  • BARRIER REEF
  • ATOLL REEF
54
Q

True or False: An atoll formation starts with a fringing reef forming around an extinct volcanic island as the island and ocean floor subsides. As the subsidence continues, the fringing reef becomes a barrier reef, and ultimately an atoll reef

A

True

55
Q

this type of reef is directly attached to a shore, or borders it with
an intervening shallow channel or lagoon

A

Fringing reef

56
Q

a reef separated from a mainland or island shore by a deep
channel or lagoon

A

Barrier reef

57
Q

this more or less circular or continuous barrier reef
extends all the way around a lagoon without a central island.

A

Atoll reef

58
Q
  • ______________ takes place mainly during storms and as a result of wave action
  • Abrasive effect of suspended particles/sediments in waves
  • High pressures of air in rock joints, are significance of in grinding and loosening cliff materials
A

Marine erosion

59
Q

As the notch deepens the overhanging cliff becomes less stable,
eventually causing the slope to fail in a mass wasting event, at
which point the cliff face retreats landward. In some instances the
hydraulic pressure from crashing waves will slowly bore a hole
through a cliff face, forming a _________.

A

sea arch

60
Q

__________ are points of land that jut seaward and areas where
waves first make contact with land.

A

Headlands

61
Q

Column of rock standing in the water off a beach

A

Chimney

62
Q

observed where a more resistant portion of the rock remains in the surf, separated from the retreating cliff

A

Sea stack

63
Q
  • Characterized by Islands such as Philippines, Indonesia, and Japan.
  • No Continental Shelves
  • Deep offshore trenches
  • Structural trend parallel to the line of convergence
  • With a line of a mountainous arcs
A

Pacific type boundary

64
Q
  • May have shallow and broad continental shelves e.g. North American Plate- Atlantic side
A

Atlantic-type Margins

65
Q

The energy available for coastal processes is partially controlled
by ________________

A

wave height, windspeed direction and duration

66
Q

___________ coasts tend to have rocky beaches, severely eroded
upland coasts while ____________ coasts tend to have deltas, salt marshes, or mangrove
swamps

A

High energy, Low energy

67
Q

Coasts between latitudes of _________ and east facing coasts in
the tradewind belts generally have high storm induced swells

A

45° to 60°

68
Q

Mitigating Storm Hazards

A
  • avoided locating large settlements directly on the coasts
  • Development of early warning systems
  • weather satellites
  • elevate a building above the expected storm-surge level
  • reinforcing houses and roofs
69
Q

Mitigating Tsunami Hazards

A
  • early warning system
  • public education
  • deep-ocean buoys
70
Q

Mitigating Coastal Hazards

A
  • Sea walls
  • Breakwaters
  • Groins
  • Jetties
  • Gabions
  • Beach nourishment
  • Natural Retreat
71
Q

CIVAT is a tool that measures the vulnerability of the physical coast by analyzing natural and anthropogenic factors driving beach processes, which means?

A

Coastal Integrity and Vulnerability Assessment Tool

72
Q

ICSEA-C-Change

A

Integrated Coastal Sensitivity, Exposure, and Adaptive Capacity to Climate Change

73
Q

TURF

A

Tool for Understanding Resilience of Fisheries

Geohazard Finals (3 decks)

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