Coastal environments questions Flashcards
Why are coastal zones continually changing?
The dynamic interaction between the oceans and the land.
What are the 4 main factors the coasts development is affected by?
- Marine factors
- Atmospheric factors
- Terrestrial factors
- Human factors
Why are coastal areas important to humans?
- Defence and protection
- Fishing - food supply
- Trade
- Leisure and recreation
- Tourism
- Industry
- Settlement - large cities
How will climate change affect the coastline?
Due to global warming and the evidence presented, sea levels are set to rise by between 30cm and 2 metres by 2100. While no one can say exactly what will happen, it is widely accepted that coastal communities are set to face major challenges in the future. Planning for these future scenarios is vital to enable people to reduce the risks and continue to enjoy living in and visiting coastal areas.
What shapes waves?
Wind blowing over a smooth sea surface causing ripples
which grow into waves.
What else could control waves?
Tides & earthquakes (tsunamis)
What controls the wave energy and size?
- Wind strength & duration
- Fetch
- Depth of seabed
What are waves of
translation?
Waves reaching the shore
What is wave shoaling?
The shortening of the wave causes an increase in
wave height
When does wave refraction occur?
Wave refraction occurs when waves approach an irregular coastline or are at an oblique angle
What does wave refraction do?
Refraction reduces wave velocity and, if complete, causes wave fronts to break parallel to the shore. Wave refraction concentrates energy onto the sides of headlands and dissipates energy in bays.
What is the wave frequency of constructive waves?
Low (8-10 per minute)
What is the wave height of constructive waves?
Low
What is the wave length of constructive waves?
Long
What type of wave is constructive waves? (Plunging or spilling)
Spilling
