Coastal Environments

Question 1

Spilling breakers

Answer 1

Gentle beach gradient and steep waves.

Question 2

Plunging breakers

Answer 2

Steep beaches, waves are moderately steep

Question 3

Surging breakers

Answer 3

Steep beach and low steepness waves

Question 4

Swash

Answer 4

A wave surging up the beach

Question 5

Backswash

Answer 5

Gravity drawing the wave back to the sea

Question 6

Constructive waves

Answer 6

Low wave frequency

Backswash able to return before the next wave breaks

Question 7

Destructive waves

Answer 7

Locally generated winds create high wave frequency

Plunging breaker breaks down the beach

Question 8

Low spring tide

Answer 8

Occur after a new moon

Question 9

High spring tide

Answer 9

Occur after a full moon

Question 10

Storm surges

Answer 10

Changes in the sea level caused by low pressure systems and winds

Question 11

Wave refraction

Answer 11

the change in speed and distortion of the wave front

Question 12

Longshore drift

Answer 12

gradual movement of sediment along the shore

from the swash moving in the direction of the wind, and backswash following the steepest gradient

Question 13

Hydraulic action

Answer 13

Air is placed under pressure by waves, weakening cliff faces

Question 14

Corrasion

Answer 14

Waves hurling small debris against a coast, abrading it

Question 15

Attrition

Answer 15

The wearing down of materials as they collide with other materials

Question 16

Dissolution

Answer 16

Chemical erosion of coastlines by waves

Question 17

Platform

Answer 17

Formed from undercutting, a sign of cliff retreat

Question 18

salt weathering

Answer 18

sodium and magnesium expanding in joints

Question 19

Freeze thaw

Answer 19

Water repeatedly expanding in cracks in the rocks

Question 20

Biological weathering

Answer 20

Animal and plant action breaking down a cliff face

Question 21

Wave factors regarding erosion

Answer 21

Wave steepness

Breaking point

Question 22

Swash aligned coasts

Answer 22

Oriented parallel to the prevailing waves

Closed systems, and net longshore drift rates are 0

Question 23

Drift aligned coasts

Answer 23

slanted orientation to the prevailing waves

open systems, longshore drift common

Question 24

Tombolo

Answer 24

A ridge of material linking an island with the mainland

Question 25

Cuspate forelands

Answer 25

Two spits joining. Triangular shape

Question 26

Temperature impacts for coral reefs

Answer 26

Optimal conditions for coral growth is 23 to 25 degrees

Question 27

Water depth impacts for coral

Answer 27

Coral grows in depths less than 25m and are found on the margins of continents and islands

Question 28

Light impacts of coral

Answer 28

Shallow water is preferred because corals need light for photosynthesis

Question 29

Salinity impacts of coral

Answer 29

coral are intolerant of water that is not saline

Question 30

Sediment impacts of coral

Answer 30

Sediment clogs up coral feeding tubes, reduces light

Question 31

Wave action impacts

Answer 31

Waves ensure highly oxygenated water

Question 32

Tidal impacts on coral

Answer 32

Coral is found below low tide mark as they cannot survive in open air

Question 33

Fringing reefs

Answer 33

Reefs that grow near a coastline, especially shores with low wave energy

Question 34

Barrier reefs

Answer 34

Formed at greater distances from the shore

Question 35

Atoll reefs

Answer 35

Formed on submerged volcanic foundations

Question 36

Patch reef

Answer 36

Irregular reefs formed on shallow sea floors