Coastal Definitions Flashcards
Define: Destructive Waves
Large waves formed by storms that erode material from beaches
(Larger and steeper)
(Strong backwash)
Define: Constructive Waves
Small low energy waves that deposit sand onto beaches
(Lower and flatter)
(Formed during calmer weather)
(Backwash is weak)
Define: Deposition
The movement of sand and rock particles cause by wind and wave action forming features such a beaches and sand dunes
Define: Erosion
The removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action
Define: Fetch
The distance that wind travels over the ocean to form waves
E.g. Big fetch = Big waves
Define: Foredune
The closest dune to ocean or the first dune in a sand dune system
Define: Hydraulic Action
Where waves enter cracks in rocks, air is compressed you the force of the water causing erosion ad forming blow holes
Define: Longshore Drift
The process, caused by waves hitting the coast at an angle, that is responsible for moving sand along the coast
Define: Refraction
The bending of waves around headlands and into bays
Define: Vegetation Succession
The natural progression of vegetation from low-lying, salt tolerant plants on the foredune, to shrubs and established trees on the hind dunes
Define: Wave Height
The vertical distance between the trough and peak of a wave
Define: Wave Length
The horizontal distance between wave peaks
Define: Weathering
The gradual breakdown of rock material
Breakdown by water, heat, pressure and ice
Define: Headland
An area of hard rock which sticks out into the sea
Define: Spit
Longshore drifts deposit sand at one end of the beach and extends the beach out
