Coastal Flashcards
Swash
A wave surging up the beach
Backswash
Gravity drawing the wave back to the sea
Constructive waves
Low wave frequency
Brings material onto the shore, has a weak backwash
Destructive waves
Locally generated winds create high wave frequency
Removes material, Strong backwash and weak swash.
Low spring tide
Occur after a new moon
High spring tide
Occur after a full moon
Wave refraction
Refraction is the change in direction of waves as they move.
Longshore drift
gradual movement of sediment along the shore
from the swash moving in the direction of the wind, and backswash following the steepest gradient
Hydraulic action
Air is placed under pressure by waves, weakening cliff faces
Corrasion
Waves hurling small debris against a coast, abrading it
Attrition
The wearing down of materials as they collide with other materials
Dissolution
Chemical erosion of coastlines by waves
Freeze thaw
Water repeatedly freezing and thawing, causing it to expand in cracks in the rocks
Freeze thaw
Water repeatedly freezing and thawing, causing it to expand in cracks in the rocks
Biological weathering
Animal and plant action breaking down a cliff face
