climbing final Flashcards
top-rope climbing seven topics
harness tying in belay set-up belay motions safety checks communication lowering
Harness safety checks
- right side up
- all buckles double backed
- all buckles tightened so cannot pull over hips
- leg loops can only fit fingers
- belay in middle, no twists
- clips done up on back
tying in safety checks
through both tie in points
less than a fist from body
five sets of parallel lines
tail 1-2 fist length, 10-20 cm long
belay set up safety checks
carabiner on belay loop
squeeze check
rope and keeper wire through carabiner
break rope down
gri-gri safety checks
carabiner on belay loop
squeeze check
lever on left
climber rope up, brake rope down
belay motions
non dominant hand at chin , dominant hand just below device (5cm)
- punch up
- break down
- pinch below
- slide up
brake hand never leaves brake rope
safety checks
self check
partner check
instructor check
climbing communication
before climbing - on belay, climbing, climb on to rest - take, gotcha to resume climbing - climbing, climb on to lower - take, gotcha, down
four fundamental movements
balanced triangles
- stable and dynamic
precise feet
- look at hold, p[lace foot, transfer weight
glue hands
straight arms
- used on side pulls and jugs with outside edge or backstep
what is inside edging
keep hips into wall. when both feet are on wall it is known as straight on or frog position. used most often on vertical terrain. downward pulling holds or gastons
what is outside edging
one foot on a hold the other not
hip of the outside edging foot is against the wall. reach with the same hand as hip that is on wall. used on both vertical and overhanging terrain.
open hand grip
distal joint flexed (thumb)
proximal joint flexed less than 90 (fingers)
knuckles unflexed
open or half crimp
distal joint hyperextended
proximal joint flexed about 90
knuckles unflexed
closed or full crimp
distal joint hyperextended
proximal flexed more than 90
knuckles flexed, thumb over index finger
pinch grip
held between thumb and fingers
hold types
Jug - accommodates whole hand - uses open hand grip Sloper - often accommodates whole hand - slopes away from wall, hard to hold, - open hand grip pinch - uses pinch grip edge - usually accommodates distal segments of fingers - small edge is a crimper - uses open or closed crimp pocket - typically has round opening - 1,2 or 3 fingers - grip style depends on size and shape finger bucket (mini jug) - accommodates fingers to proximal joint - relatively positive - uses open hand or open crimp grip
Four hold orientations
Normal or Pure
- usually ignored in descriptions
sidepull (right hand)
gaston (across body)
undercling
sport climbing
like lead climbing, but outside
traditional climbing
climbing where you take resources with you, you leave no trace
aid climbing
climbing with the use of aids such as trays and ladders
free climbing
climbing with the use of a rope
free soloing
climbing without the use of a rope
dangerous
Alpine climbing
climbing in its most classic form. uses a wide range of techniques to reach summit, often crying bear minimum technical gear relying instead on deep adaptable skills and good decision making
bouldering
rock climbing stripped down to its raw essentials
leaving behind ropes and harness as they are short but trick problems
top rope climbing
climber is securely attached to a rope which passes through an anchor system at the top of the climb down to the belayer at the bottom
lead climbing
The lead climber must have another person acting as a belayer. The belayer has multiple roles: holding the rope in the event of a fall, and paying out or taking up rope as the climber moves.
climber clips into bolts as they move up the wall
pantomiming
While not on the wall (i.e., on ground, hanging on the rope), to rehearse climbing moves by moving hands and body as if one were climbing a route or boulder problem. More advanced climbers typically pantomime as part of their preparation for an ascent.
Arete
An outside corner that can be blunt or sharp. A very prominent feature to climb on.
Dihedral
An inside corner of a wall known also known as a corner or an “open book”
Bouldering safety 3 steps
survey the problem
arrange matts
employ spotter
Bouldering spotting
idea to guide climber to matt
protect head and neck
feet shoulder width apart, arms outstretched, thumbs in
aim for middle of back
