Chemical Texturing Flashcards
Aldehyde
Results from the oxidation of primary alcohols;there are several other chemicals in the class of highly reactive chemical compounds (composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen)
Formaldehyde free
Products are manufactured ‘without’ the use of formaldehyde but could release a formaldehyde gas upon use
Permanent waving
Chemically rearranging straight hair into a curly or wavy form
Protective cream
A cream barrier applied around the hairline and ears to protect the skin from permanent wave lotions or haircolor
Neutralizer
A chemical solution that stops the waving process of a permanent wave; rebuilds the bonds into their new form
Thio neutralization
The process of stopping a permanent wave and reforming the hair into its new curly shape
Preliminary test curl
Determines the required processing time and insures that the desired curl has been achieved for a permanent position wave service
Alkaline waves
cold waves
Processed without heat, the main ingredient is thioglycolic acid
Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
The main active ingredient in true acid waves
True acid waves
Permanent waves processed with the application of of heat that have a pH range between 4.5 to 7; the main active ingredient is typically glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
These acid waves process slower than alkaline waves
Acid balanced waves
Permanent waves processed without heat that have a pH ranging between 7 and 8.2; produce a firmer curl and process more quickly than true acid waves
Endothermic wave
Processed by the application of heat; hood dryer, heat processor
Exothermic wave
Processed by chemical reaction that releases heat; self heating
Ammonia-free waves
Uses an ingredient other than ammonia to reduce the odor associated with ammonia perms
Concave rod
A perm rod that has a small diameter in the center and larger diameter increase throughout the length
Straight rod
A perm rod with an even diameter throughout the entire rod length
Bender rod
flexible rods
Foam-covered rods that are easily bent into different shapes and used for permanent waving
Loop rod
circle rod
A long, plastic rod that is used to create spiral curls
Sponge rod
Pliable foam rods that allow hair to be chemically altered, creating a soft-end result
Double flat wrap
Requires hair to be placed between two end papers, one on each side of the hair strand
Book end wrap
Requires only one paper, which is folded in half much like a book
Single flat wrap
Requires only one paper used in conjunction with either the double end or book end wraps
Croquinole wrap
Wrapping the hair from ends to scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Spiral wrap
Consists of wrapping the hair at angle other than parallel to the length to the length of the rod, which creates a coiling effect of the hair
Base direction
The position of the perm rod: horizontal,vertical, or diagonal, within a section and or parting
Base sections
The subsections located within a larger panel section; the hair is divided into smaller subsections that hold one perm rod each
Base control
base placement
The position of the tool in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Basic perm wrap
(straight set wrap)
(9-block wrap)
Controlled sections of hair in which perm rods are placed in rectangular-shaped subsections
Curvature perm wrap
Consists of parting that follow the shape of your guests head
Bricklay perm wrap
Perm rods are placed within a staggered pattern of subsections
Weave perm wrap
Wrapping consisting of controlled sections of hair that replaces straight parting with ‘zigzag’ partings
Piggyback perm wrap
double-rod
A wrap technique where hair longer than 10 to 12 inches is wrapped on one rod from the mid-shaft to scalp, and the remaining hair is wrapped around a second rod
Soft curl reformation
A chemical texture service that restructure overly curly hair into loose curls or waves
Porosity
The ability of the hair to absorb any liquid
Elasticity
The capability of the hair strand to stretch and return to its previous form without breaking; elasticity is directly related to the condition of the hair
Preliminary strand test
Performed as part of your guest consultation to test how the hair will respond to the chemical application
Amino acid
Protein building blocks of hair that link to together to form tiny protein fibers
Peptide bonds
end bonds
Connect amino acids (end to end) that form polypeptides
Polypeptide chain
Spiraling chain of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Side bonds
cross bonds
Connect polypeptide chains side by side; responsible for strength and elasticity
Hydrogen bonds
Physical side bond easily broken by water or heat; reforms when hair cools and/or dries
Salt bonds
Weak physical side bonds easily broken by change in pH; reforms when pH balance is restored
Disulfide bonds
Strong chemical side bonds that can only be broken by chemical solutions
Occupational disease
Any illness caused by overexposure to certain products or ingredients
Physical mixtures
Consists of two or more types of matter that are blended together, but not chemically altered; each part in the mixture maintains its own properties
Miscible
When a substance is able to be mixed with another substance
Immiscible
When a substance is not able to mix with another substance
Potential hydrogen
pH
A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution
pH scale
A scale ranging from 0 to 14 that measures if a product is acid (0-6.9), an alkaline ( 7.1 to 14), or neutral (7)
Chemical relaxing
To chemically alter naturally curly or wavy hair into a straighter form
Lanthionization
The process of removing one sulfer and replacing it with a disulfide bond
Normalizing lotions
Solutions with an acidic pH that restores the hair’s natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer
Neutralizing shampoo
Used to help remove any remaining chemicals left in the hair after a chemical relaxer and to restore hair to normal acidic pH
Base cream
protective base cream
An oily cream applied on the scalp/skin to protect from the chemicals in the relaxer
Neutralizing
rebonding
Chemically restoring disulfide bonds to harden into a new shape
Hydroxide neutralization
acid/alkali neutralization reaction
Neutralizes any remaining alkaline residue left by the hydroxide relaxer and helps to restore the pH of the hair and scalp
Viscosity
Measurement of how thick or thin a liquid is and how that affects the liquids flow
Hydroxide relaxer
Relaxers with a high alkaline (pH) content; available in varying formulations
Sodium hydroxide
lye
A strong alkaline ingredient used in chemical relaxers
Lithium hydroxide
A very strong alkaline ingredient used in chemical relaxers; typically marketed as no-mix, no-lye
Guanidine hydroxide
Relaxer requiring the mixing of two products; advertised as ‘no-lye’ for sensitive skin
Base relaxer
Requires a protective base cream to be applied to the hairline and scalp; when a relaxer is labeled ‘base relaxer’, it means the relaxer is too strong to be applied without the application of a base cream
No-base relaxer
no-lye relaxer
Do not require a base cream to be applied to the skin or scalp
Thioglycolate relaxers
thio relaxers
Are chemical compounds with the additive ingredient ammonia; considered to be a ‘no-lye’ relaxer, suitable for soft curl reformation
Ammonium thioglycolate
ATG
A combination of ammonia and thioglycolic acid that creates a reducing agent used in permanent waves and relaxers
Ammonium bisulfide relaxer
A mild, alternative relaxer containing a low pH compatible with thio relaxers
Formaldehyde
An organic compound that is a colorless, flammable and pungent gas; present in the air and many food and beauty products
